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      03-28-2017, 06:59 PM   #23
kamber
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Can someone confirm for me that parts 11, 12, and 13 in the following diagram are the 3 differential bolts?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1408

I'm looking to replace the diff bolts when I swap to powerflex diff bushings and just wanted to make sure I order the right parts.

Last edited by kamber; 03-28-2017 at 07:38 PM..
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      03-29-2017, 12:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamber View Post
Can someone confirm for me that parts 11, 12, and 13 in the following diagram are the 3 differential bolts?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1408

I'm looking to replace the diff bolts when I swap to powerflex diff bushings and just wanted to make sure I order the right parts.
Its 10, 11 and 13. I just did mine this past weekend and put in the powerflex bushings. Big difference
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      03-29-2017, 02:16 PM   #25
kamber
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Thanks much!

I'm planning on doing diff and subrake bushings at the same time. My biggest concern is just getting the old ones out and new ones in without too much difficulty/damage.
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      08-09-2017, 12:33 PM   #26
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Great DIY.

I'm thinking of removing the subframe myself and sending it off to someone else (AutoCouture, ACM, etc) to press out the old ones and install the new ones.
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      08-09-2017, 04:53 PM   #27
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Apparently, the SF bushings are DIYable. There is a member in MA who made a puller and used it to pull stock bushings and install aliuminum ones while lowering the SF only a few inches (obviously disconnecting brake lines and some other stuff). I plan to try this. Waiting on some M12x1.5 rod that might hold SF while I play around. Same guy also did diff bushings.
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      08-29-2017, 01:13 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Apparently, the SF bushings are DIYable. There is a member in MA who made a puller and used it to pull stock bushings and install aliuminum ones while lowering the SF only a few inches (obviously disconnecting brake lines and some other stuff). I plan to try this. Waiting on some M12x1.5 rod that might hold SF while I play around. Same guy also did diff bushings.
Did he post any info on how he did it?
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      08-29-2017, 06:44 AM   #29
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No. I talked to him about it. Don't have photos of the tools but have seen similar ones before and it is a common bushing/mount removal technique to pull the bushing through into a receiver using a threaded rod and a top plate the diameter of the bushing or slightly less. I will be trying it soon but I have been saying that for a year. Too many projects.
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      01-04-2018, 10:28 PM   #30
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I was wondering the same thing, if the solid bushings can be installed with the specific subframe tool. There are a variety of tools on amazon.
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      03-18-2018, 01:06 PM   #31
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Guys who uses solid subframe and diffirential bushings.

Do you have some kick from rear subframe when you push your gas pedal on the highway? I replaced all parts of the transmission except of the DCT and flywheel, but I feel the kick from the rear subframe... Don't know what it can be.. It feeling like the backlash in transmission, but I replaced all parts (both axle shafts, u-joint, guimbo and even the differential!) Maybe solid bushings is reason and it is normal? But I can't beleive that it is normal.
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      03-18-2018, 01:30 PM   #32
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I had the same exact symptoms you are describing, and they were originating from my driveshaft. As soon as I replaced it with a 1-piece M-Factory / YCW driveshaft it was gone. That is weird though, that you are still getting that drivetrain lash after replacing the u-joint and guibo. Afaik the u-joint is usually the culprit and those are not normally a replacable part on our driveshafts... did you do this yourself or did a shop tell you they "replaced" the u-joint? From what ive read, if you have a worn u-joint that is beginning to develope some slop, your two options are to either replace the entire driveshaft, or send it out to a specialty shop like DSS to get it remanufactured.
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      03-19-2018, 05:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamber View Post
I had the same exact symptoms you are describing, and they were originating from my driveshaft. As soon as I replaced it with a 1-piece M-Factory / YCW driveshaft it was gone. That is weird though, that you are still getting that drivetrain lash after replacing the u-joint and guibo. Afaik the u-joint is usually the culprit and those are not normally a replacable part on our driveshafts... did you do this yourself or did a shop tell you they "replaced" the u-joint? From what ive read, if you have a worn u-joint that is beginning to develope some slop, your two options are to either replace the entire driveshaft, or send it out to a specialty shop like DSS to get it remanufactured.
I am sorry... I mistaken. I replaced CV-Joint (not u-joint) of my driveshaft.

I doubt because I didn't see any play in my u-joint when I replaced cv-joint.
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      11-20-2018, 05:26 PM   #34
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Freeze fitting solid subframe bushings

I’m thinking of doing a solid subframe bushing install without dropping the whole subframe to use a shop press like in this diy.

Wanted to post here to get thoughts on freeze fitting the solid bushings. I just came across this method and thought it might work. See these videos to get an idea.




The other option might be the HPA tool mentioned here but I'm not quite sure that works for inserting the solid bushings.

http://www.hpashop.com/Bushing-Tool-...g-tool-kit.htm

Last edited by carbonFab; 02-21-2019 at 09:37 PM..
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      11-20-2018, 11:48 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonFab View Post
I’m thinking of doing a solid subframe bushing install without dropping the whole subframe to use a shop press like in this diy.

Wanted to post here to get thoughts on freeze fitting the solid bushings. I just came across this method and thought it might work. See these videos to get an idea.




The other option might be the HPA tool mentioned here but I'm not quite sure that works for inserting the solid bushings.

http://www.hpashop.com/Bushing-Tool-...g-tool-kit.htm
my friend suggested that method too.. since i work in freeezers.. if u freeze it 24hrs and hit -5 would that be sufficient?
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      05-13-2019, 08:33 PM   #36
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Can you disconnect in the cabin and pull the parking brake cables through like on the E46?
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      05-16-2019, 02:55 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VDRM3 View Post
Can you disconnect in the cabin and pull the parking brake cables through like on the E46?
Potentially but removing the e brake cables on the E9x is easy. Remove calipers brackets and rotors then just dissemble the 4 pieces of the parking brake then there’s a t30 behind the wheel hub that holds the clip that holds the cable in place.
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      05-16-2019, 05:31 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VDRM3 View Post
Can you disconnect in the cabin and pull the parking brake cables through like on the E46?
I am pretty sure that is what I did, but it was several years ago.
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      05-18-2019, 11:00 AM   #39
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Thanks, guys! It does look easier to remove the line at the rear. Looks like you have to remove the center console to get at the e brake lines from the cabin.

If anyone comes looking for this info later, there are YouTube videos on this for the E90.
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