Recommended camber settings?

[ty7]

Does anyone run camber plates year round with snows? Picking up some plates and debating waiting till next season to install as I only have 1-2 more track days left before I switch to snow tires. I would be running a track/street compromise camber setting if I did put them on but concerned about increased wear on the softer compounds / any other unintended issue when driving in the snow. Thanks

[M3 Esq]

Originally Posted by ty7

Does anyone run camber plates year round with snows? Picking up some plates and debating waiting till next season to install as I only have 1-2 more track days left before I switch to snow tires. I would be running a track/street compromise camber setting if I did put them on but concerned about increased wear on the softer compounds / any other unintended issue when driving in the snow. Thanks

You might have less snow and ice grip up front because your contact patch with be slightly smaller with the added camber, but it shouldn't make a huge difference. Also, I'd be concerned with getting road salt on the camber plates themselves as it could be corrosive, just try to keep them clean and you should be fine. I wouldn't worry about increased wear. You might get some but I don't think it will be much.

[M4isKing]

I run -2.7 with ZERO toe in front. -1.8 1/16th toe in.

how come no one else is using zero toe up front?

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by M4isKing

I run -2.7 with ZERO toe in front. -1.8 1/16th toe in.

how come no one else is using zero toe up front?

I run as close to zero toe up front as possible and some toe in on rear.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by surlynkid

I run as close to zero toe up front as possible and some toe in on rear.

I do same.

[MasterP]

-3.4 Degrees up front, Zero Toe. -2.0 out back, slight toe in.

Vorshlag Camber Plates, AST dampers.

[VictorH]

I run zero toe up front too.

All you guys running -1.8 or more neg camber in the rear, are you all running R-comps? I run street tires (dedicated track tires but street DOT radials) and with -1.5 in the rear my tire wear across the back is dead flat from outside to inside.

[M3 Esq]

I'm running -3.0 F camber and 2.2 R with zero toe on KW Clubsports. Great setup.

[E92M356789]

Originally Posted by surlynkid

I run as close to zero toe up front as possible and some toe in on rear.

+1

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by jphughan

Hmm, interesting. When I first got the camber plates I asked the shop doing the install and alignment to check the minimum and maximum camber just so I knew the range, and the shop said that when they maxed it out they got -2.8 and I think 1/4" toe-in, so they dialed it back a bit (which I would have wanted anyway).

BMWs are front steer cars. More negative camber will toe out the front wheels.

[SenorFunkyPants]

Originally Posted by VictorH

[......]with -1.5 in the rear my tire wear across the back is dead flat from outside to inside.

The rear tyre wear pattern is a function of camber and toe. The more the rear tyres toe in the faster it wears the outsides of the tyre. The more rear negative camber the faster the insides of the tyre wear. Even wear with -1.5 rear camber indicates you are running around the OEM setting for rear toe of 10 mins toe in.
Running less rear toe in will increase the tendency to oversteer and quicken turn in at the expense of straight line stability.

[Sleeper519]

Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants

The rear tyre wear pattern is a function of camber and toe. The more the rear tyres toe in the faster it wears the outsides of the tyre. The more rear negative camber the faster the insides of the tyre wear. Even wear with -1.5 rear camber indicates you are running around the OEM setting for rear toe of 10 mins toe in.
Running less rear toe in will increase the tendency to oversteer and quicken turn in at the expense of straight line stability.

Agree, especially under hard braking.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by M3 Esq

You might have less snow and ice grip up front because your contact patch with be slightly smaller with the added camber, but it shouldn't make a huge difference. Also, I'd be concerned with getting road salt on the camber plates themselves as it could be corrosive, just try to keep them clean and you should be fine. I wouldn't worry about increased wear. You might get some but I don't think it will be much.

It depends. The GC plates are definitely a maintenance item. Vorshlag is a lot easier since they use a sealed bearing which I have never failing. Can't say the same thing about Vorshlag's other stuff. You probably could run a Vorshlag plate for many winters and not have a problem.

[myBailey07]

Hey guys, thanks so much for all the help. I thought I would provide some feedback. Based on the info you provided in this thread installed Vorschlag camber plates and had a mid-way alignment done with -2.5 front and -1.8 rear with 1/16th toe in each. I am just gonna leave it like that.

In addition I also switched to 18*275/38 square setup on RS3's.

Had the car out at TWS for the weekend

Whoa!!! What a difference. Before the car would not turn and I had to fight it. Now it turns on a dime in comparison to before. I obviously cannot isolate the improvement between the added camber and new square setup, but it feels just so much more "instinctive" - the car goes just where you want it to go...first few laps I had to back off my turn in, in order to not run right smack over the apex LOL!

Did also learn that better turning equates a much more happy rear end (Don't ask me how I know...)!!! Hell's yeah. The coolest thing was to figure out that you can turn the rear end with just a little bit more throttle...hell's yeah!

Again, thx for the help!!!!

[WinterSoldier]

Great stuff, love this forum.

[M4isKing]

Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants

The rear tyre wear pattern is a function of camber and toe. The more the rear tyres toe in the faster it wears the outsides of the tyre. The more rear negative camber the faster the insides of the tyre wear. Even wear with -1.5 rear camber indicates you are running around the OEM setting for rear toe of 10 mins toe in.
Running less rear toe in will increase the tendency to oversteer and quicken turn in at the expense of straight line stability.

which is what we all want!

[M4isKing]

Originally Posted by myBailey07

Hey guys, thanks so much for all the help. I thought I would provide some feedback. Based on the info you provided in this thread installed Vorschlag camber plates and had a mid-way alignment done with -2.5 front and -1.8 rear with 1/16th toe in each. I am just gonna leave it like that.

In addition I also switched to 18*275/38 square setup on RS3's.

Had the car out at TWS for the weekend

Whoa!!! What a difference. Before the car would not turn and I had to fight it. Now it turns on a dime in comparison to before. I obviously cannot isolate the improvement between the added camber and new square setup, but it feels just so much more "instinctive" - the car goes just where you want it to go...first few laps I had to back off my turn in, in order to not run right smack over the apex LOL!

Did also learn that better turning equates a much more happy rear end (Don't ask me how I know...)!!! Hell's yeah. The coolest thing was to figure out that you can turn the rear end with just a little bit more throttle...hell's yeah!

Again, thx for the help!!!!

sad part is, that turn in enjoyment goes away as you get faster. Then it seems like it understeers like crazy again. next step is trail braking. then the next step is better suspension. then the next step is a dedicated track car. crap. at least thats my story

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by M4isKing

sad part is, that turn in enjoyment goes away as you get faster. Then it seems like it understeers like crazy again. next step is trail braking. then the next step is better suspension. then the next step is a dedicated track car. crap. at least thats my story

You could try not over driving it into corners. I know it's hard at your superior skill level I have same problem.

[M4isKing]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

You could try not over driving it into corners. I know it's hard at your superior skill level I have same problem.

mash on brakes while turning. rotate that shit!! well not mash but you know what I mean.

[knolow]

Originally Posted by M4isKing

sad part is, that turn in enjoyment goes away as you get faster. Then it seems like it understeers like crazy again. next step is trail braking. then the next step is better suspension. then the next step is a dedicated track car. crap. at least thats my story

[Colinv6]

Thread bump, hoping someone can help me out a bit here.

I’ve had my e92 competition for a couple of months now, and it drives perfectly.

However I have a suspicion that the previous owner has tinkered about with the suspension at some point, perhaps for track or for his own driving style, this is coupled by the fact that it came fitted with 275/30/19 rear tyres.

As I say, I’m happy with the drive, just not so much with how it looks. Here’s a pic to show what I mean.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by Colinv6

Thread bump, hoping someone can help me out a bit here.

I've had my e92 competition for a couple of months now, and it drives perfectly.

However I have a suspicion that the previous owner has tinkered about with the suspension at some point, perhaps for track or for his own driving style, this is coupled by the fact that it came fitted with 275/30/19 rear tyres.

As I say, I'm happy with the drive, just not so much with how it looks. Here's a pic to show what I mean.

[img] https://i.postimg.cc/RCWQXXvw/D70792...7-DD8-D327.jpg[/img]

What's the question?