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      09-12-2018, 08:52 PM   #1
W12x
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Usually labor hours for BBK install?

Was talking to a shop today and was quoted about 8 hours of labor for BBK installation, which seems a little too much for me.

What's a reasonable hours for BBK install/bleeding?
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      09-12-2018, 09:05 PM   #2
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Some kits can take that long to do it right with all the trimming, hoses, and bleeding. I’d get some more details from them before assuming it sounds like too much. Just because someone says they installed their BBK in 4 hours doesn’t mean it was done as well as it could have been. You’d think a bbk install is a bbk install but I’ve seen some crappy ones.
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      09-12-2018, 09:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W12x View Post
Was talking to a shop today and was quoted about 8 hours of labor for BBK installation, which seems a little too much for me.

What's a reasonable hours for BBK install/bleeding?
Find three buddies with one having BBK knowledge. Have the one with knowledge direct you guys and each take a corner. Be done in no time.
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      09-12-2018, 09:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Some kits can take that long to do it right with all the trimming, hoses, and bleeding. I’d get some more details from them before assuming it sounds like too much. Just because someone says they installed their BBK in 4 hours doesn’t mean it was done as well as it could have been. You’d think a bbk install is a bbk install but I’ve seen some crappy ones.
They haven't seen the kit (Mine is a Sparta Evolution BBK) and just throw me that number.

Well not in a rush to get it installed, I was there to get the suspension checked out after my buddy hit a curb in the car and thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Do you guys to BBK install at MPorium? If you do I may just get everything done with you guys when I take my car for rod bearing (emailed you guys a few weeks ago, no schedule yet)
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      09-12-2018, 09:18 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by BOOF-M3 View Post
Find three buddies with one having BBK knowledge. Have the one with knowledge direct you guys and each take a corner. Be done in no time.
I usually DIY on things like wheel speed sensor but for major safety items I will pay to get it done..
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      09-12-2018, 09:21 PM   #6
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Mine was 7hrs labor, the most time consuming parts are both rear brake lines and trimming the dust shields. Most places would quote you at least 4/5 hours for new pads and rotors alone
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      09-12-2018, 09:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W12x View Post
I usually DIY on things like wheel speed sensor but for major safety items I will pay to get it done..
I used to feel that way too but when I started tracking my car, it became obvious that if I was going to pay a shop to swap my pads before/after each track day it was going to get expensive. So I bit the bullet and started doing my brakes myself. Once I was used to swapping pads and installing new rotors, installing a BBK (Stoptech Trophy Kit, ST60/ST40) wasn't really a big deal. And I'm mechanically reclined :-).

Just make sure you torque everything to spec and work methodically. If you are really paranoid, have the shop bleed the system for you and do a "safety" inspection to check your work.
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      09-12-2018, 10:27 PM   #8
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I think it cost me about $220 per set... I don't have a bleeder and would be by myself.
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      09-12-2018, 10:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
I used to feel that way too but when I started tracking my car, it became obvious that if I was going to pay a shop to swap my pads before/after each track day it was going to get expensive. So I bit the bullet and started doing my brakes myself. Once I was used to swapping pads and installing new rotors, installing a BBK (Stoptech Trophy Kit, ST60/ST40) wasn't really a big deal. And I'm mechanically reclined :-).

Just make sure you torque everything to spec and work methodically. If you are really paranoid, have the shop bleed the system for you and do a "safety" inspection to check your work.
I have no issues with swapping pads and new rotors but not comfortable doing the calipers and brake lines (also messy) and bleeding.

Most likely won't track my car but the BBK I got (Sparta EVO) does have a quick swap for pads which are nice
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      09-13-2018, 07:04 AM   #10
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Yes we do installs here. We do pretty much everything here except paint body. I can discount some if you do it during the RB job as some of the labor would overlap.
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      09-13-2018, 07:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Yes we do installs here. We do pretty much everything here except paint body. I can discount some if you do it during the RB job as some of the labor would overlap.
Like what? Removing the wheels? Haha
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      09-13-2018, 08:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Like what? Removing the wheels? Haha
Lol. Granted it's not much overlap but the calipers come off and are hung from the chassis when the subframe and suspension comes down. To be able to disconnect the brake hose and remove the brake system during the process would save some time overall.

The least fun part of a BBK installation is trimming the backing plates and replacing the two upper rear brake lines at the subframe. Those two brake lines are usually overlooked during a BBK install as they're not usually included with the kits. Those two OEM hoses should be upgraded when the caliper lines are being replaced with SS variants.
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      09-15-2018, 03:08 AM   #13
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8 hours doesn't sound excessive to me.theres quite a bit of work involved from start to finish. I'd rather pay a bit more knowing it's been done with care and be 100% happy with the end result.
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      09-24-2018, 01:19 PM   #14
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As a supplier, we typically estimate that a shop would charge three hours per axle on a BBK install, including bleeding the brakes. That means 6 labor hours for front and rear. Eight isn't totally out of line. I also don't know if your specific kit requires any customization/trimming/massaging. That could add in a little time.
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      09-28-2018, 11:52 PM   #15
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I can do it in 4 hrs if I can skip those inner rear lines. I'm a beast with the grinder!
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      03-18-2019, 11:21 PM   #16
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Do you need to cycle the abs pumps to complete the flush when you’re changing from oem to bbk? Or just a regular bleed is sufficient?
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      03-19-2019, 07:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Do you need to cycle the abs pumps to complete the flush when you’re changing from oem to bbk? Or just a regular bleed is sufficient?
Usually a full install will require the ABS to be cycled. On one of my cars we recently did the install. I went out and drove a few days, got into ABS eight or ten times, and then brought it in to rebleed. We found air bubbles at every caliper. In my case we installed a fresh master cylinder, which introduces considerably more air, but it does usually take a bit to work all the air out. Sometimes there is some that gets worked out when the ABS is cycled.
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      03-19-2019, 08:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusB View Post
Do you need to cycle the abs pumps to complete the flush when you’re changing from oem to bbk? Or just a regular bleed is sufficient?
DSC actuation is the only way to do a complete flush/bleed but in all honesty most of the time this is omitted either by ignorance or by inability since you need software to do it (there is a service module in ISTA-D for the function). This is part of a proper yearly brake flush that BMW requires as part of the condition based service intervals.

In some cases you may not need to flush or bleed the DSC during a BBK installation. You're supposed to depress and secure the brake pedal fully during line-open repairs or replacements. This seals the master cylinder and keeps fluid from draining out while you replace components. If you completed the job this way then there should not have been any air introduced upstream and you should be fine with just a regular bleed. Even so, every time we bleed a DSC pump here at our shop, we see air bubbles. Plus, if you have air bubbles in your DSC pump you won't feel them until you get into the ABS and it pushes them through. Then you're left with a poor pedal until you bleed them out.
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      03-19-2019, 10:18 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusB View Post
Do you need to cycle the abs pumps to complete the flush when you're changing from oem to bbk? Or just a regular bleed is sufficient?
DSC actuation is the only way to do a complete flush/bleed but in all honesty most of the time this is omitted either by ignorance or by inability since you need software to do it (there is a service module in ISTA-D for the function). This is part of a proper yearly brake flush that BMW requires as part of the condition based service intervals.

In some cases you may not need to flush or bleed the DSC during a BBK installation. You're supposed to depress and secure the brake pedal fully during line-open repairs or replacements. This seals the master cylinder and keeps fluid from draining out while you replace components. If you completed the job this way then there should not have been any air introduced upstream and you should be fine with just a regular bleed. Even so, every time we bleed a DSC pump here at our shop, we see air bubbles. Plus, if you have air bubbles in your DSC pump you won't feel them until you get into the ABS and it pushes them through. Then you're left with a poor pedal until you bleed them out.
Thank you for making it clear!
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      03-23-2019, 08:05 AM   #20
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The worst part of the E9X BBK install are the rear inner brake hoses near the rear subframe.

Flare wrench and 1/16 turn at a time. But 8 hours seems like too much even with brake bleeding done properly.
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