Help! Solid subframe bushing upside down!

[M43S7RO]

I made the assumption that BW solid subframe bushing went in the same way as the stock ones. Turns out all four go in buttom up. Looking for ideas as to how to get it out, I have a press but thinking I need some sort of cup just slightly larger than the bushing to push into but can't find one.

Tried the puller method but the bushings take much more force than it or my impact gun can provide. I've also tried a couple other things that didnt work.

Any ideas are appreciated or if anyone can reasonably machine a ~75mm bore cup about 4 inches long, I'd like to talk to you!

[Banana Hammock]

Does that mean you've tried heat?

[pbonsalb]

Did you spray lube, put a large round flat piece of metal or wood on it and whack with a mini sledge?

[M43S7RO]

Banana Hammock:

I have not tried heat, I figured that would just expand the metal and make it tighter since I've seen suggestions to put them on dry ice before installation to shrink the aluminum a bit.

pbonsalb:

I'm reluctant to try a sledge hammer as I'm afraid of bending the subframe, additionally, the perimeter of the subframe where the bushing sits is only about a millimeter wide and is really the only thing that I have to try to hold on to somehow while pushing on the bushing. I did cut the lip off of the side you can see sticking out above so that it is out of the way (I have another one coming from BW). Even then, still difficult to support the subframe somehow to allow the bushing to be pressed.

[SAMM3Y]

I have one of these, it worked good for removing the stock bushings. Should work for this too? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...QaAmiWEALw_wcB

[M43S7RO]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

I have one of these, it worked good for removing the stock bushings. Should work for this too? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...QaAmiWEALw_wcB

Good to know! Thank you! Do you know if the cup fits perfectly on the perimeter to allow the bushing to slide into it? I would imagine it does to allow the old ones to be pulled. If it does then this will be perfect as I can put this under the rim and press the bushing into it and out of the subframe.

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by M43S7RO

Good to know! Thank you! Do you know if the cup fits perfectly on the perimeter to allow the bushing to slide into it? I would imagine it does to allow the old ones to be pulled.

Yep it sure does. Made life real easy removing the stockers. It's a good price rn too

[Banana Hammock]

Originally Posted by M43S7RO

Banana Hammock:

I have not tried heat, I figured that would just expand the metal and make it tighter since I've seen suggestions to put them on dry ice before installation to shrink the aluminum a bit.

pbonsalb:

I'm reluctant to try a sledge hammer as I'm afraid of bending the subframe, additionally, the perimeter of the subframe where the bushing sits is only about a millimeter wide and is really the only thing that I have to try to hold on to somehow while pushing on the bushing. I did cut the lip off of the side you can see sticking out above so that it is out of the way (I have another one coming from BW). Even then, still difficult to support the subframe somehow to allow the bushing to be pressed.

Yes and no. Because the metal on the subframe is thinner than the metal on the bushing, the subframe will heat up and expand faster than the bushing.

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by Banana Hammock

Yes and no. Because the metal on the subframe is thinner than the metal on the bushing, the subframe will heat up and expand faster than the bushing.

Yep that makes sense, but I'd be cautious getting it too hot and thus making it brittle especially if you're hard mounting the diff. The NVH over long term could lead to cracking which the older m3's are notorious for at the high stress points on the subframe. I'm no expert but when I've suggested heating up stuff to loosen to professionals they typically poo-poo it.. my old rusty dirt bike mentality used to be "heat and hit it!"

[SAMM3Y]

Another option OP would be go down to autozone and loan a tool, I'm sure you could source something to pull that sucker out, especially if you've cut the shoulder off the rear side, could pull it through the front side? Have you tried a slide hammer? Drill a bunch of holes through the aluminum to weaken it structurally?

[drrust]

Try various sizes of black pipe from a plumbing supply place. It has a relatively thick wall. End caps could also work if pipe diameter isn't right. You could also check a local metal supply house for thick wall tube or solid bar. If you're lucky they may have a scrap piece.

Another approach would be to use a very large socket. This would have to be from a 1 inch drive wrench. Not sure if you can borrow one as they can be pricey.

[M43S7RO]

I was just looking up steel pipe supply shops in my metro area this morning as a matter of fact! I've narrowed down 3 that I'm gonna go check out later this week, hopefully they have a scrap they can let me have like you said! This seems possibly the easiest and most logical route.

I have not tried a slide hammer as I don't have one but honestly don't think it'll budge the bushing. I'm reluctant to try extreme flame as I'm afraid it may affect the structural integrity of the subframe metal, it may be a non-issue but I'd rather not risk it.

Originally Posted by drrust

Try various sizes of black pipe from a plumbing supply place. It has a relatively thick wall. End caps could also work if pipe diameter isn't right. You could also check a local metal supply house for thick wall tube or solid bar. If you're lucky they may have a scrap piece.

Another approach would be to use a very large socket. This would have to be from a 1 inch drive wrench. Not sure if you can borrow one as they can be pricey.

[M43S7RO]

I was able to find a piece of steel pipe with a 3" inside diameter with a thick wall at a local pipe supply shop, this worked perfectly to press out the upside down bushing and also helped finish up the job as the BW bushings extend past the edge of the subframe mount.

I'm swapping out all the other bushings on the subframe with Powerflex bushings since this is probably the best time to do it all at once, just need to press the camber arm sleeves and put in the bushings and it'll be ready to go on.

Thanks all for the input!