Installing a Stoptech ST60/40 BBK. A few questions, and things to know..?

[Rat3d ///M]

I will be installing a used Stoptech ST60/40 BBK I picked up soon, and wanted to get some information before I start the install.

1. It has been about 1.5 years and 7k miles since a brake fluid change was performed, so I plan to do a change. What fluid does everyone recommend I use? I will likely end up using the OEM fluid, unless someone can recommend a good aftermarket alternative that will actually work better for track use. How much fluid should I get?

2. For the bleeding process, I will be using the two man method. I know I need to start at the rear passenger, then move to rear driver, then front passenger, and finally front driver wheel, and bleed the outside bleed screw first, then the inside (or I might have that backwards?), is there anything else to know when it comes to bleeding..? i.e. is it straight forward, or is there something more to it?

3. Maybe a very dumb question, but should the car be running when I bleed the brakes, or is it okay just to turn the ignition on (car not running)?

4. Do I need to do anything regarding bleeding the clutch system as well? The car is a DCT if it matters. If so, what's the procedure for this?

5. When it comes time to reset the brake fluid service indicator so it will begin the 2 year count again, is this something you can do in iDrive, or will the dealer need to do this?

I think that is pretty much it, unless anyone has anything specific that I should know.

[dozaiya]

many will use castrol srf but i use endless rf650

[Amirsm3]

Originally Posted by ||||||||||

I will be installing a used Stoptech ST60/40 BBK I picked up soon, and wanted to get some information before I start the install.

1. It has been about 1.5 years and 7k miles since a brake fluid change was performed, so I plan to do a change. What fluid does everyone recommend I use? I will likely end up using the OEM fluid, unless someone can recommend a good aftermarket alternative that will actually work better for track use. How much fluid should I get?

2. For the bleeding process, I will be using the two man method. I know I need to start at the rear passenger, then move to rear driver, then front passenger, and finally front driver wheel, and bleed the outside bleed screw first, then the inside (or I might have that backwards?), is there anything else to know when it comes to bleeding..? i.e. is it straight forward, or is there something more to it?

3. Maybe a very dumb question, but should the car be running when I bleed the brakes, or is it okay just to turn the ignition on (car not running)?

4. Do I need to do anything regarding bleeding the clutch system as well? The car is a DCT if it matters. If so, what's the procedure for this?

5. When it comes time to reset the brake fluid service indicator so it will begin the 2 year count again, is this something you can do in iDrive, or will the dealer need to do this?

I think that is pretty much it, unless anyone has anything specific that I should know.

2. You got the order down correctly. As far as anything you should know, I would invest in some plastic tubing to go over the bleeder valve. It'll make the mess more controlled and it should keep most - if not all - the brake fluid off your fresh new calipers

3. I didn't run the car when I bled my brakes, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt if you've done it before? I'll have to let someone else comment on this because I've only ever bled my brakes the "old fashioned" way with two people

5. Buying new brake pad sensors should reset the countdown.

[Bx Tpr]

You don't bleed a dct. You change the fluid completely.

When bleeding the brakes be careful not to spill any brake fluid when topping off the brake fluid reservoir. There is a sensor under it. I don't remember which one but it gave me issues until it was replaced.

The toughest part of the job was replacing the two shorter rear brake lines. Most people leave them alone because of this. FYI

Take your time and have fun.

[RickyBobby]

A tip that I learned from this forum is to keep the brake pedal pressed down half way with a piece of wood during the install. You will have NO brake fluid loss this way.

[Rat3d ///M]

Originally Posted by dozaiya

many will use castrol srf but i use endless rf650

Thanks for the advice. Any other input on what fluid to run? Looking for a better performing (possibly cheaper) fluid than OEM, but if they all work the same, I think Ill stick with OEM.

Originally Posted by Amirsm3

I would invest in some plastic tubing to go over the bleeder valve. It'll make the mess more controlled and it should keep most - if not all - the brake fluid off your fresh new calipers

Any idea what size tubing is needed? My resource are limited as far as local vendors go, so I will likely have to try Amazon.

Buying new brake pad sensors should reset the countdown.

I was referring to the brake fluid 2 year replacement countdown, not the pad wear sensors, but this brings up another good point. Do the Stoptech pads use regular OEM BMW sensors? I was sort of under the impression the sensors weren't used with the StopTechs at all.

Originally Posted by Bx Tpr

You don't bleed a dct. You change the fluid completely.

Thanks, wasn't sure exactly how the DCT system worked as far as hydraulics go (if there were any, like the SMG).

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

A tip that I learned from this forum is to keep the brake pedal pressed down half way with a piece of wood during the install. You will have NO brake fluid loss this way.

I've heard that as well. Ill definitely give this a shot

[BzsBimmer]

I'd go with Castrol SRF for fluid. It has a high wet and dry boiling point, can be mixed with any other DOT 4 fluid and will last a whole track season (typically).
Since it's a used kit, 1L should be fine, 2 will be more than enough and could be wasteful.

Google the Stoptech BBK install prior to receiving the kit. Give it a good read and it will also tell you the bleed procedure. If you can't find it, PM me, I have it.

Also get a small empty water bottle or soda bottle, drill a hole in the center of the cap, and stick a 3/16" ID clear vinyl tube that you can buy and custom cut to length at most hardware stores. This will be your bleed bottle. Stick one end of the tube all the way down and fill the bottle with some old brake fluid about 1/4" up (or just enough to submerge the tip of the tube). The 3/16" is perfect to fit around your nipples Bleed nipples....

Get a turkey baster or large syringe to suck up old brake fluid from your reservoir, making sure to add the new fluid before you start to bleed the brakes.

Hopefully the seller gave you all of the parts, drip caps, zip ties and crush washers for the brake lines. There are also the two smaller brake lines at the rear drivers side that most people don't replace (so should be new in packaging).

Never heard of someone running the car when bleeding brakes. Definitely turn the car on, press the brake a few times, and refill any fluid prior to driving.

Zip tie your brake sensors. The system will still count down on it's own. When time is up, you'll have to reset your computer by unplugging and replugging the sensors (2 up front, 1 in right rear) depending on front or back. You can reset your OBC service's on your own. google how

[Rat3d ///M]

Originally Posted by BzsBimmer

I'd go with Castrol SRF for fluid. It has a high wet and dry boiling point, can be mixed with any other DOT 4 fluid and will last a whole track season (typically).
Since it's a used kit, 1L should be fine, 2 will be more than enough and could be wasteful.

Google the Stoptech BBK install prior to receiving the kit. Give it a good read and it will also tell you the bleed procedure. If you can't find it, PM me, I have it.

Also get a small empty water bottle or soda bottle, drill a hole in the center of the cap, and stick a 3/16" ID clear vinyl tube that you can buy and custom cut to length at most hardware stores. This will be your bleed bottle. Stick one end of the tube all the way down and fill the bottle with some old brake fluid about 1/4" up (or just enough to submerge the tip of the tube). The 3/16" is perfect to fit around your nipples Bleed nipples....

Get a turkey baster or large syringe to suck up old brake fluid from your reservoir, making sure to add the new fluid before you start to bleed the brakes.

Hopefully the seller gave you all of the parts, drip caps, zip ties and crush washers for the brake lines. There are also the two smaller brake lines at the rear drivers side that most people don't replace (so should be new in packaging).

Never heard of someone running the car when bleeding brakes. Definitely turn the car on, press the brake a few times, and refill any fluid prior to driving.

Zip tie your brake sensors. The system will still count down on it's own. When time is up, you'll have to reset your computer by unplugging and replugging the sensors (2 up front, 1 in right rear) depending on front or back. You can reset your OBC service's on your own. google how

Thanks for the info I think that answered most, if not all my questions.

I think I will go with the Castrol SRF like you say. Probably cheaper and better performing than OEM, and I am switching to Castrol Diff fluid, so I may as well keep all my fluids Castrol (besides DCT fluid of course).

Hopefully the seller included the rear lines I keep reading about. I am definitely replacing those, no matter how much of a bitch it is. I've read it makes a huge difference in brake pedal feel. If he didn't include them, I will have to buy them unfortunately, and I think I will buy new o rings for the brake lines as well.

[M3 Number 86]

another tip is to have the bottle you are bleeding into above the caliper so the tubing goes up from the bleeder valve - air travels up so when you tighten the bleed screw it won't all rush back to the nipple.

Also, make sure the bleeder valves POINT UP. Don't install the caliper upside down and wonder why you can't bleed the fluid LOLOL.

[Amirsm3]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

another tip is to have the bottle you are bleeding into above the caliper so the tubing goes up from the bleeder valve - air travels up so when you tighten the bleed screw it won't all rush back to the nipple.

Also, make sure the bleeder valves POINT UP. Don't install the caliper upside down and wonder why you can't bleed the fluid LOLOL.

I know this one from first hand experience Live and learn, though, it was my first BBK install years ago.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Amirsm3

I know this one from first hand experience Live and learn, though, it was my first BBK install years ago.

purplurple didn't live to tell that tale

[Amirsm3]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

purplurple didn't live to tell that tale

Thats not good at all lolol

[MasterP]

Have fun with those inner rear brake lines. If you don't have a lift those are a pain. So get the ass of the car as high as you can to get those out.

Test fit the pads you be using before putting the calipers on the car. There is a history of poor tolerances on the abutment plates. If your pads don't glide in and out this is why.


If your sensors are still fine, just zip tie them out of the way. If your sensors are worn, cross the wires for a permanent fix.

Put a dab of anti seize on the caliper bridge bolts and don't over tighten them.

Put loctite (recommend blue) on all the caliper brackets.

I'd honestly not put high dollar fluid in the car until you knew for sure your system is up and running with no drips or leaks, no air in the system or ABS. then re bleed with the good stuff when you know everything is operating like it should. Shame to waste more high dollar fluid than necessary.

[dparm]

I would suggest you invite a friend over to guide you through the brake bleeding process. It's not something you want to screw up, and having someone there walking you through it should make things go smoothly. It's not that hard after you've done it a few times.

As for fluid, SRF is probably your best bet if you plan to track the car regularly. If it's predominantly a street-driven vehicle, any good DOT4 fluid will serve you well.

[Rat3d ///M]

Anyone know where to buy replacement Stoptech o rings for brake lines, mid lines (if I end up needing them), or other Stoptech parts, just in case something is missing? I remember seeing a thread a while back that had part numbers and links on where to buy replacement Stoptech M3 parts, but I might have imagined that.

[BzsBimmer]

Zeckhausen
http://www.zeckhausen.com/StopTech/consumables.htm

[Rat3d ///M]

Originally Posted by BzsBimmer

Zeckhausen
http://www.zeckhausen.com/StopTech/consumables.htm

Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for.

Crush Washers (QTY 4)

10mm copper crush washers for use with StopTech calipers


$3 for 4


41.604.4516K

Those are the correct washers for the brake lines, yes? And I am guessing it's one washer for every connection, i.e. two for each line plus two each for the mid lines, so 12 total?

[ortho281]

I waited to replace my inner brake lines when I removed sub frame to install Delrin bushings. Good Luck with install!

[BzsBimmer]

Originally Posted by ||||||||||

Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for.


Those are the correct washers for the brake lines, yes? And I am guessing it's one washer for every connection, i.e. two for each line plus two each for the mid lines, so 12 total?

Theres only one washer for each line @ the hard pipe end.
There are two washers each for each caliper end but different size. Those washers are sandwiched in the banjo fitting.

The inner brake lines, not sure. I didn't use them.
For the size of each, I wish I could be sure. Your best bet would to contact Zeckhausen or Stoptech directly.

[Rat3d ///M]

Originally Posted by BzsBimmer

Theres only one washer for each line @ the hard pipe end.
There are two washers each for each caliper end but different size. Those washers are sandwiched in the banjo fitting.

The inner brake lines, not sure. I didn't use them.
For the size of each, I wish I could be sure. Your best bet would to contact Zeckhausen or Stoptech directly.

I emailed Zeckhausen, and he responded that the only washers on the lines are on the banjo fitting end like you said. He did not mention that there are washers on the hard pipe end. I emailed him back just to verify, and he again stated that the only washers needed are for the banjo fitting end So Im kind of confused. I assumed there would be washers to prevent anything from leaking on both ends of the hoses, but I guess I will see when I pull the stock lines off if there are washers on the hard pipe or not.

[rantarM3]

Last week I installed a 40/40 kit on my car and have everything fresh in mind. There are three types of washers in total:

Copper crush washers for the banjo bolts (two per front caliper, for a total of 4);

Caliper mounting bracket washers (two per caliper); and

Steel washers for connecting the stainless braided lines to the hard lines.

The steel washers do not seal anything and are used to allow the braided lines to sit flat on the mounting bracket where the connection to the hard lines is made.

Hope this helps.

[verdik]

The crush washers is universal and can be bought from autozone or O'reilly stores? or it has to be specific from brembo or St? I will be installing a used Ss brakelines.

Update: I called race technologies. Nothing special on the crush washer. They said for as long as it is copper material and matches the size, it is okay. So, you can try your local hardware shop and just bring a sample to match the size.