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04-27-2011, 01:26 PM | #177 |
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After only having the dealer change the oil over the first 35k miles...I decided to give it a try. Noticed two annoying things...
1. The bolt on the rear sump was nearly stripped...so chances are the dealer over torque one or more times. 2. The bolt on the front sump was immaculate...which led me to believe my dealer didn't ever bother draining the front sump. Since I didn't have the greatest experience with the 6mm allen hex bit during my DIY oil change...I went searching for alternative oil drain plugs...hoping to find a magnetic one that wasn't an allen hex. I too noticed Turner had something of the sort but it didn't fit my 08. Ultimately, I did find one though. It's been purchased but not installed at this point. http://www.bavauto.com/ - search for "Magnetic Oil Drain Plug" Last edited by dbacon; 04-27-2011 at 03:30 PM.. |
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04-27-2011, 07:28 PM | #178 | |
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By the way, the best way to loosen a stubborn bolt is with impact, like hitting the ratchet with your palm, rather than exerting ever increasing force. The 6mm allen bolt is plenty strong, but not if you tighten it to hell. Oh, and don't forget to coat the oil cap's gasket with a film of oil, so it doesn't bunch up when turned. I'm also doing all my maintenance; better pay for fluids and filters than letting dealer touch my car. Good luck, and please keep us posted if the magnetic plug's head doesn't protrude past the skid plate. Thanks. |
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04-27-2011, 08:38 PM | #179 |
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Yeah, I used the palm of the hand, quick impact method to bust it loose...but because the dealer had mildly stripped the drain plug...my allen hex bit was very much lodged into the drain plug...big time! Had a very difficult time separating the allen hex bit from the drain plug and ultimately had to damage the drain plug to get them separated.
Of course this was all done over a weekend, so dealers were closed and my car sat for two days in my garage...until I could buy a new drain plug. Silver lining, certainly got a thorough draining of the used oil though. The dealer 5 miles north of me had the drain plug listed at $8 but was out of stock. The dealer 5 miles south of me had it in stock but for $18. So ridiculous. Had no choice at the time...so I had to eat the overage. I eventually bought the magnetic ones from BavAuto. The picture is very blown up. The size of the drain plug is comparable to the OEM one and the head of the plug you speak of does not present a ground clearance issue. It stays recessed within the skid plate. Last edited by dbacon; 04-28-2011 at 02:56 PM.. |
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05-10-2011, 02:47 AM | #180 |
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These magnetic plugs need a slight design enhancement, I have emailed the original manufacturer and recommended making the heads of the bolts longer. The front will not work at all and I am concerned that if you tighten the head you may not get it off. Even if you took off the pan, which would be a PITA. The rear bolt I have installed, however if the edges round in the slightest this bolt may be difficult to remove also.
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05-13-2011, 11:40 PM | #181 | |
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Anyone else get oil coming out of the top of the filter cap when you pulled it off? Kind of annoyed me since it spilled some oil. I also had a lot on the bottom of the filter housing and sucked it out. I took about 1/4 quart to replace it. My drain plugs were a BITCH to get loose. I had to improvise. I'll get a proper secket next time.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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06-05-2011, 05:47 PM | #182 |
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Thanks for the DIY.
Did an oil change yesterday. Ramps for the rear and jack stands for the front, and drained both pans. Also took the excess oil left at the filter pan. I added 8.75liters of fresh oil, and the car still things (after 150 miles) I need to add a quart. I honestly don't believe it, since the engine also sounds OK. Funny thing is, I first added 8.25liters, and the car said add a quart... Go figure. Hopefully in a day or two I will get correct reading.
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06-06-2011, 01:13 PM | #183 | |
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Oh, and yes, you need to remove oil cap carefully. Remember intake cam gear shoots oil right at the cap; that's why if gasket is not lubed on 'old' caps, it can bunch up when rotated to lock it, create a gap, and make a royal mess, so don't forget that step folks . Take care gang. |
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06-06-2011, 03:10 PM | #184 | |
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I also sucked the oil in the filter housing. I will see what the car says tomorrow, and maybe get another bottle and keep adding up in 0.25liter steps...
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06-06-2011, 03:27 PM | #185 |
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My experience:
1. BACK the rear tires onto my ramps as there is more clearance from the rear. 2. Use two low profile jacks to lift the front so that the car is absolutely level. 3. Drain the oil and let it drip for about an hour and then replace and torque the plugs. 4. Siphon all of the oil from the filter canister and then refill the canister with the same amount of clean oil and replaced the filter. 5. Refill the engine with oil. I used exactly 9 quarts total including the amount that I refilled the filter canister. 6. Remove the jacks, ramps and cleanup. I brought the car up to operating temp, reset the oil sensor and went for a drive. After about 20 minutes it was indicating exactly the max amount of oil on a level surface. I've also reset and checked a few times without leaving the garage and the reading is spot on.
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06-06-2011, 03:46 PM | #186 | |
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Did you put 9 quarts, or 9 liters. Because each bottle is 1 liters, which is 1.05quarts. I put 8.75liters so far, and the car is still asking for another quart.
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06-06-2011, 05:37 PM | #187 |
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I used jack stands under the A-Arm pivot points just for safety but kept the car on the jacks.
Correction - I used 9 bottles.
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06-07-2011, 07:57 PM | #188 |
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Update: So I ended up adding 0.5 bottle more, and now the grand total is 9.25bottle (liters). And the car is happy, the oil level is at max.
I added oil in 0.25liter increments, and even when I was at 9.0liter level, the car was asking me to add another quart... Such a poor system.
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06-09-2011, 07:26 PM | #189 |
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Why are you guys going through all this trouble tilting, jacking the back wheels, front wheels etc?
Just slide a heavy duty jack under the front jacking point (the black plastic one between drain plugs) and lift, put a safety jack under one or both front sides, then drain the oil. Lower the car back to the floor while the oil drains. Get a cooking pan to catch the oil, they have a low profile. Change the filter while the oil is draining, then jack back up and install the drain bolts. All you need is one big jack and a safety jack. No ramps or multiple jacks. Also, I forgot to mention, change the oil about 6 months from a year since last change, not so much the mileage. BMW will replace your oil after 365 days or the mileage of the computer, whichever comes first. So, for example, if you drive about 10k per year, do it at 5k. |
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09-12-2011, 01:02 PM | #190 |
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I got my oil kit over the weekend. I want to change my oil. At the biggining of this post there are two drain plugs, M6 & M8, with different torque values. I bought two drain plugs, just in case mine are screwed. Mine are M12??? Anybody on here can confirm what the real torque for these drain plugs are?
Thanks, Eric
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09-12-2011, 05:59 PM | #191 |
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I would like to make a correction on the drain plug. It is not an M6 nor M8, it is actually an M12 bolt. The correct torque is 25nm or 18ft/lbs. I actually bought two and confirmed this with one of the tech at the dealership. Just making sure that everybody that is doing their own oil change is doing the correct torque on the drain plugs.
Eric
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09-12-2011, 09:55 PM | #192 | |
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09-12-2011, 09:58 PM | #193 | |
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09-13-2011, 06:46 AM | #194 | |
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09-13-2011, 02:05 PM | #195 |
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Folks, remember to 'whack' the ratchet, rather than applying steady force. Much easier to strip a fastener with the latter.
But IMO, there's no reason to torque a drain plug to hell unless the pan surface is not perfectly flat, which has happened to me ONCE. On that car I tightened the drain plug by feel, as always, and after checking it a few hundred miles later (I always do on new cars for that reason), had to apply more pressure. It kept dripping, so finally had to apply the spec torque (lower end of the range), and that took care of it, by deforming the crush washer enough to close any gaps (which is not needed in most cases). But on all my other cars and motorcycles, and after 3+ decades of doing all my oil changes, never a drop, nor a stripped plug/threads. I view those specs as MAX torque, not what you want to initially put, but manufacturers want to simplify things... just like adding oil until you're a quart low, which is stupid IMO (and I obviously don't do, because I know how the sensor works). Anyway, on weaker hex-head drain plugs, as evidenced by the last few posts, you either have to apply less torque, or have a supply of extra drain plugs . But my main worry of keep using the recommended gorilla torque would be eventually stripping the pan; that'd be fun . By the way, I can't describe what I know to be the right torque by feel, but my guess is I put around 15 lb/ft, rather than the 25 lb/ft typically recommended. And no, I'm not encouraging anybody to use less torque than recommended, especially those not mechanically inclined who don't understand what I'm talking about, but simply relaying my observations and personal experience . Good day gang. Last edited by JCtx; 09-13-2011 at 02:18 PM.. |
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09-17-2011, 03:44 PM | #196 |
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Just did my oil change. It is pretty straight forward. The onlything that went wrong was, that when I opened the oil filter cap, I didn't have an oil pan to catch the oil under the front sump. So when I looked under to see if it quit dripping, I saw a huge mess. So please don't forget to have an oil pan under both sumps, especially before opening the oil filter cap. Other than that, pretty easy to do. My car actually took all 9L of oil and after taking it for a drive, it is readin right at MAX. Thank you eveybody for the input on this post. It was very helpful.
Eric
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09-29-2011, 11:40 AM | #198 |
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Does anyone know if we can use Mityvac for oil change on our cars? Used it on my fathers e500 Merc. yesterday and it was so easy and fast, no lifting, no mess. Modern Merc. cars are desined for sucking oil trough oil dipstick hole in the engine bay. What about e9x m3?
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