Track forum general chit chat.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by dogbone

If you can fit a 10.5” rim up front, then I would try to take advantage of bigger rubber. Braking and turn in will benefit a lot.

And of course, your fender liners will hate you.

That's the nice thing about a 285/30 or even a 295/30 though. The overall diameter is small so fender liner clearance is actually quite good, especially in a 285/30.

But as Mr. Bone said, going bigger will definitely be a performance benefit.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

10.5 squared guys …

285/30? Or 275/35? Or … other?

Tire dependent obv. So any details appreciated

I'm on a 285/30/18 square with a 10.5 as my track set up. -4 camber. (for when I ran 295 squared)

[Exclusivs]

295/30 a052/cr1 is absurdly wide …
no shot they're working

285/30s got some options. The 275/35 planned was only in RT660 which run wide. Didn't know if 35 was too tall on 10.5

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

295/30 a052/cr1 is absurdly wide …
no shot they're working

285/30s got some options. The 275/35 planned was only in RT660 which run wide. Didn't know if 35 was too tall on 10.5

295 cr1 isnt that bad. its not that wide compared to the a052

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

295/30 a052/cr1 is absurdly wide …
no shot they're working

285/30s got some options. The 275/35 planned was only in RT660 which run wide. Didn't know if 35 was too tall on 10.5

If people can fit 295 Hoosiers up front, any 295 can fit.

[Move Over]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

I'm on a 285/30/18 square with a 10.5 as my track set up. -4 camber. (for when I ran 295 squared)

What are you running to get -4 camber. I have vorshlag plates and SPL arms and can only get -3.6.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Move Over

What are you running to get -4 camber. I have vorshlag plates and SPL arms and can only get -3.6.

let me check my alignment sheet, im pretty sure i had -4 but I have majority of the SPL catalouge.

but i am currently on BC Racing extreme low with their camber plates. a part of me is about that life > track. lol

[DRLane]

I'm running 295/30 R7s on 18x11 et 19 (effective). The tire is definitely close to the strut body.

A295/30 A052 on 10.5" isn't a problem.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

let me check my alignment sheet, im pretty sure i had -4 but I have majority of the SPL catalouge.

but i am currently on BC Racing extreme low with their camber plates. a part of me is about that life > track. lol

What front Toe do you guys run with -3.5-4.0 camber?

First Toe in or Toe out?

I know there is more than one way to express it, but I am looking for degrees. Like .05 or -.05

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by rhyary

What front Toe do you guys run with -3.5-4.0 camber?

First Toe in or Toe out?

I know there is more than one way to express it, but I am looking for degrees. Like .05 or -.05

I'm running completely neutral front toe, as close to 0 degrees as possible. The tire wear isn't worth the additional turn in for toe out. I've never run toe in on the front intentionally.

[Move Over]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

let me check my alignment sheet, im pretty sure i had -4 but I have majority of the SPL catalouge.

but i am currently on BC Racing extreme low with their camber plates. a part of me is about that life > track. lol

BC!

Yeah I've got the full SPL line too, but you're likely lower than me with the BC's

[Ximian]

Had the old rotors sent to be looked at and turned if they were usable. Looks like someone missed a step and because they couldn’t turn it, they used a grinder to clean the surface.

Now I have a beautiful set of warped rotors. Somehow, the rotor hat and some spots where the ring attaches are bent. I also think I know why that happened. Last year, I was trying to figure out maximum brake pressure while stationary by pressing down the the brakes as much as I could. Not my smartest moment.

While the ST60 caliper is great, getting replacement rings and hats was a pain and almost nobody makes pads that fit it.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Move Over

BC!

Yeah I've got the full SPL line too, but you're likely lower than me with the BC's

oh i am absolutely lower lol

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by rhyary

What front Toe do you guys run with -3.5-4.0 camber?

First Toe in or Toe out?

I know there is more than one way to express it, but I am looking for degrees. Like .05 or -.05

zero toe up front

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

zero toe up front

I had a conversation with a Corvette guy while attending the instructor course at WGI.

He strongly advised against zero toe.
Said it causes the car to wonder about.

He said either -.05 or .05 (toe in or out) depends on what you want, but not zero.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I had a conversation with a Corvette guy while attending the instructor course at WGI.

He strongly advised against zero toe.
Said it causes the car to wonder about.

He said either -.05 or .05 (toe in or out) depends on what you want, but not zero.

Well he's likely as random of an opinion as anyone on here, but given there are endless resources for suspension setup I don't take random advice to heart.

That stability comes at the expense of steering responsiveness and more importantly for me tire wear as toe induces slip angle.

Suspension secrets summarizes well.

Toe in:
"This makes the car more stable at high speeds and makes the car feel planted through long fast corners. This set up is perfect for new drivers within motorsport or for drivers who do not have fast reaction times. This set up is perfect for race circuits similar to Silverstone."

Zero:
"The dynamic effect of running zero toe on the front wheels is that the car is no less or more stable in different corners and will respond evenly in short or fast corners and the behaviour of the car will be more dependent on other aspects of set up and geometry."

EDIT: quoted the wrong section. While it's largely the same, it's important to reference the right info. See the follow up post.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Well he's likely as random of an opinion as anyone on here, but given there are endless resources for suspension setup I don't take random advice to heart.

That stability comes at the expense of steering responsiveness and more importantly for me tire wear as toe induces slip angle.

Suspension secrets summarizes well.

Toe in:
"This makes the car more stable at high speeds and makes the car feel planted through long fast corners. This set up is perfect for new drivers within motorsport or for drivers who do not have fast reaction times. This set up is perfect for race circuits similar to Silverstone."

Zero:
"The dynamic effect of running zero toe on the front wheels is that the car is no less or more stable in different corners and will respond evenly in short or fast corners and the behaviour of the car will be more dependent on other aspects of set up and geometry."

DrLane's post summarize it well.

Originally Posted by rhyary

I had a conversation with a Corvette guy while attending the instructor course at WGI.

He strongly advised against zero toe.
Said it causes the car to wonder about.

He said either -.05 or .05 (toe in or out) depends on what you want, but not zero.

Also take any setup advice from a completely different platform with a grain of salt. Just because a lot of fast FWD cars run toe-out in the rear doesn't mean it's appropriate for a RWD car. The same can be said for taking any generic alignment advice of one platform and applying it another.

Within different generations of M3's even, the general alignment varies as well. What you'd run on an E30 is not the same as the E92.

[rhyary]

what most heavily tracked E92 M3 set the Toe for?

Do you guys set it to zero toe on the front?

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by rhyary

what most heavily tracked E92 M3 set the Toe for?

Do you guys set it to zero toe on the front?

I bet for those with dedicated rigs. Toe out! It's lovely just eats tires. Could also be me adding additional slip or dragging tires further exacerbating wear. I'm very likely equally to blame

[tsk94]

I would say zero toe is the most common. Depending on track, a little toe-out can work well too.

[kyippee]

I'm at USTCC @ laguna right now and there's a red E92 M3 running 🙌

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by rhyary

what most heavily tracked E92 M3 set the Toe for?

Do you guys set it to zero toe on the front?

I don't "heavily track", but I copied an alignment from someone who I think does.

Attached are pictures of my front PS4s tires after my last track day.

They have seen 4 track days with various alignments.

Thunderhill East, -0.9* cmbr, 0.19* Toe IN (5 20 min sessions)

Thunderhill East, -1.6* cmbr, 0.05* Toe IN (4 20 min sessions)

Laguna Seca, -1.6* cmbr, 0.05* Toe IN (5 20 min sessions)

Laguna Seca, -3.0* cmbr, 0.4* Toe OUT (4 20 min sessions)

Also attached is SYT_Shadow alignment instructions.

(The 0.4* Toe OUT didn't cause my car to twitch or dart around, but maybe track tires are more sensitive to Toe OUT?)