Track forum general chit chat.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by kayha12

haha *inserts picture with the m3 with the roof rack and tires on it*

I've had so many folks come up to me and comment on how I drive to/from the track, compete, and drive home. Glad to be an inspiration... however Knock on wood, but the car has been flawless and zero hiccups while at the track. I'm glad to be competitive in TT and still be able to drive the car on the street. It's mega uncomfortable (icy hot for the lower back lol), loud af (I wear bluetooth sound cancelling headphones to jam out to music). Typically at the 1 hour mark in the commute my back starts to ache... after 1 hour, it just goes numb hahah been doing it for 3 seasons now - sadly a truck and trailer isn't in the budget yet, but hopefully soon!

I'd like to believe NASA's power to weight rulebook is more amateur friendly, while yes you can still dump a ton of money into your car, it's not 100% about how deep your pockets are.

WTAC/SCCA/GTA rulebooks are too open and unless you have those deep pockets or backed by a shop - it's hard to go against builds with gobs of money into them

i thought about making a custom rack, i have sea sucker mounts already hehe. i'm just worried about the weight on the CF roof and you make me less worried thank you.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by tsk94

I've always found the compromise to be almost impossible, at least for myself. Anything that's very capable on track isn't well mannered for the street and visa versa. I also don't get anything out of driving my 'track car' on the street, but I know other feel differently. As a result I've always found myself having full on race cars, or extremely modified street cars, for track use and generally totally stock cars for any street and daily driving.

Perhaps I'd think differently if I was somewhere else and had access to great driving roads (like the canyons), but up here there is absolutely nothing and the roads quality is pretty awful.

The good thing is, the information and the parts are available to do basically any build anyone could want. Whether it's a lightly modified street car, something in the middle, or all the way to a full on track car. Everyone's priorities are different and as long as they are enjoying their car, that's what counts.

For sure everyone has their own ideas etc, and as long as everyone likes what they're doing then more power to them.

My track cars are street legal because I can't trailer living where I live, but even though they are street legal they are used sparingly on the street other than driving to/from the track.
Driving the track cars on the street feels like bringing a gun to a knife fight.

The car I enjoy driving most on the street is my E92 M3 which is completely stock.

During COVID I started going to some mountain roads with a group of people. The stock E92 is plenty fast to keep up with extremely capable cars on the street, as a lot of track driving lets you push in a way others won't. I don't think the street M3 needed any mods, it is already way too capable for anything I would do on the street.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Richbot

It's funny how much fast a fun car can be without being awful to live with, if you choose your mods carefully without regard for some random set of limitations imposed by some sanctioning body somewhere or other

I have learnt my lesson through long study and trial and error not to ruin a good car, and I now have a comfy, 5-place, rad, rowdy car that doesn't break much and can track at will in its street configuration without falling to pieces. The Goodyears were the final piece in that puzzle - finally a track-capable, go-fast tire with really, really good street manners that isn't a billion dollars per tire! I'm in a pretty happy place with my car right now, and weight savings is one of the few places where I might continue to pick away at making it better, and maybe a diff. But based on the times it just did this past weekend, on street pads and street tires, it's a pretty dang fast car without, literally, even changing the tire pressure, because of all that careful planning and careful thought about what I really want the car to be, rather than just doing whatever makes it FASTER or whatever makes it fit into a particular peg-hole. Costs be-damned, this is what I want, I will do it. Sure, I might end up with $30,000 worth of parts on a "$20,000 car" but that's missing the entire damn point.

I applaud everybody who says "F it, I don't care about the ruleset, or the ROI" and just builds what they want.

What is your build spec sheet like nowadays?

[kayha12]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

i thought about making a custom rack, i have sea sucker mounts already hehe. i'm just worried about the weight on the CF roof and you make me less worried thank you.

Yup, I just use the OEM BMW bars and some random basket I bought on eBay for like $95 - I personally wouldn't carry more than 2 wheels on there if you're worried about weight, that's all it can fit unless you stack them or sit the wheels upright which all both sound super sketchy haha

Old pic but setup is still the same - lol this was actually at a local cars and coffee back in 2019:

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by derbo

What is your build spec sheet like nowadays?

I should probably update it lol, but it's really not that extreme, which is the whole point. Ran like a top last weekend at the track.

3500lb with a full tank and no driver, full stock interior, '08 6MT slicktop, 134,000 miles and counting
High points since you asked:
Voltphreaks battery (installed 5 years ago! Now officially the longest-lasting BMW battery I've ever had in 20 years and 5 BMW's-worth of BMW ownership)
MPE
AFE 300cell resonated xpipe
Karbonius plenum
Evolve Stage 1 tune
YCW carbon driveshaft
STR40 front kit with DS2500's
RacingBrake rear rotors with RB street pads
Dinan front bar and camber plates
Sachs front coilovers, set at a ride height that allows about -2.5 camber, about -10mm from ZCP height (these use a ~310lb/in spring)
ZCP rear springs (so, basically 550lb/in)
1M rear shocks and bumpstops
Various bits and bobs for weight reduction/annoyance reduction, like BMS filters, headlight washer delete
Completely stock body
Bimmerworld TA16's 18x10 ET25 with 275/35 square Goodyear SC3's and a 5mm rear spacer
Spoon Sports power steering reservoir sock
Bender plush on the front grille
Diono Radian RXT in purple *
Chicco booster seat*


*car weighs 3525 if I don't take the child seats out, heh

[Exclusivs]

^This. & ^This ..again!

Those BW Teal16. Great looking wheel.

Logical, approach. To building a car that's reliable and fast when you need it to be. Dump the extra cash flow to seat time & learning stuff.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Richbot

I should probably update it lol, but it's really not that extreme, which is the whole point. Ran like a top last weekend at the track.

3500lb with a full tank and no driver, full stock interior, '08 6MT slicktop, 134,000 miles and counting
High points since you asked:
Voltphreaks battery (installed 5 years ago! Now officially the longest-lasting BMW battery I've ever had in 20 years and 5 BMW's-worth of BMW ownership)
MPE
AFE 300cell resonated xpipe
Karbonius plenum
Evolve Stage 1 tune
YCW carbon driveshaft
STR40 front kit with DS2500's
RacingBrake rear rotors with RB street pads
Dinan front bar and camber plates
Sachs front coilovers, set at a ride height that allows about -2.5 camber, about -10mm from ZCP height (these use a ~310lb/in spring)
ZCP rear springs (so, basically 550lb/in)
1M rear shocks and bumpstops
Various bits and bobs for weight reduction/annoyance reduction, like BMS filters, headlight washer delete
Completely stock body
Bimmerworld TA16's 18x10 ET25 with 275/35 square Goodyear SC3's and a 5mm rear spacer
Spoon Sports power steering reservoir sock
Bender plush on the front grille
Diono Radian RXT in purple *
Chicco booster seat*


*car weighs 3525 if I don't take the child seats out, heh

Spoon Sports!! Are the 1M rear shocks bumpstops different?

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Spoon Sports power steering reservoir sock
Bender plush on the front grille

these 2 mods already complete the build, the most competitive car to hit the track. i love it.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

i thought about making a custom rack, i have sea sucker mounts already hehe. i'm just worried about the weight on the CF roof and you make me less worried thank you.

Two tires is inside of the weight capacity and it has nothing to do with the carbon roof.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Two tires is inside of the weight capacity and it has nothing to do with the carbon roof.

i like this. although i have no issues stuffing my car with 4 wheels, i just hate having the passenger seatbelt warning when i load the rest there.

[roastbeef]

Plug in the seatbelt?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Plug in the seatbelt?

GTFO with this obvious solution.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Two tires is inside of the weight capacity and it has nothing to do with the carbon roof.

How are the metal bars attached to the roof rack? I need this to get back my passenger seat and wheel well back.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Ximian

How are the metal bars attached to the roof rack? I need this to get back my passenger seat and wheel well back.

The feet of the bases rest on a platform in the little doors that open up. Four m8 bolts keep it from falling off. Nothing touches anything exterior.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Ximian

GTFO with this obvious solution.

i can i refuse too LOL.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Ximian

How are the metal bars attached to the roof rack? I need this to get back my passenger seat and wheel well back.

I misread what you were asking.

Tabs on the basket and bolts that extend down with nuts and washers within the rails of the oem racks.

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by derbo

Spoon Sports!! Are the 1M rear shocks bumpstops different?

They're a different part number so I figured why the hell not

I'm still chasing the perfect rear street damper for this car. I don't want a spherical bottom end and I thought the Sachs might be it but I broke one and haven't fixed it yet. And the 1M shocks are featherlight like the stock non-ZCP M3 shocks

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by tsk94

I've always found the compromise to be almost impossible, at least for myself. Anything that's very capable on track isn't well mannered for the street and visa versa. I also don't get anything out of driving my 'track car' on the street, but I know other feel differently. As a result I've always found myself having full on race cars, or extremely modified street cars, for track use and generally totally stock cars for any street and daily driving.

Perhaps I'd think differently if I was somewhere else and had access to great driving roads (like the canyons), but up here there is absolutely nothing and the roads quality is pretty awful.

The good thing is, the information and the parts are available to do basically any build anyone could want. Whether it's a lightly modified street car, something in the middle, or all the way to a full on track car. Everyone's priorities are different and as long as they are enjoying their car, that's what counts.

This is me 100x. Driving my e92 on the street is cool but I can hear it begging for me to push it. I am a pretty conservative driver on the street so I don't need the power or anything. My X5 is perfect - comfy, can hit anything without feeling I'm going to break the splitter off, and still kinda quick when I need it. I did just order a new F150 though, and I can't wait to have an even better daily.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

I misread what you were asking.

Tabs on the basket and bolts that extend down with nuts and washers within the rails of the oem racks.

That makes sense, although doesn't seem secure enough for me. For our kayak holder, it has a brace with bolts on both sides that goes under the roof rack so the load is distributed evenly. Could probably do something similar for added security.

Was it custom made? What's the fastest you go with the tires on the roof?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Ximian

That makes sense, although doesn't seem secure enough for me. For our kayak holder, it has a brace with bolts on both sides that goes under the roof rack so the load is distributed evenly. Could probably do something similar for added security.

Was it custom made? What's the fastest you go with the tires on the roof?

It's plenty sturdy and safe. I'll do 85 without thinking about it.

[kayha12]

Lol I just noticed the PS reservoir sock on the build list. I'm still rocking an old Walmart beanie over mine, zip tied and has served it's purpose ever since

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by b4hand

This is me 100x. Driving my e92 on the street is cool but I can hear it begging for me to push it. I am a pretty conservative driver on the street so I don't need the power or anything. My X5 is perfect - comfy, can hit anything without feeling I'm going to break the splitter off, and still kinda quick when I need it. I did just order a new F150 though, and I can't wait to have an even better daily.

I have a Spec Racer Ford for "real racecar" stuff. So my perspective is a little off compared to most people who have a "dual-duty" car. I still want to have a car that truly can track and be fun at the track, and that I can drive around with the family with zero compromise on the days I want to drive it on the street, then drive to the track the next day and have the car present a totally different challenge from the racecar. A totally stock E90M is...not that. Need brakes and a little suspension tweaking, but the constraint of not making the car hateful on the street can pay dividends on track too. Especially if you actually *like* a car that moves around a lot under you. Some people hate that feeling and want the car grounded to the ground, and I get that. Again, if you're not chasing laptimes, it's freeing

If all I had as a fun car/motorsports toy was the M3, I'd be setting different mission parameters