DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Are you using the 3.5mm or aux via quadlock? I have the aux volume set to around 70% I think and no hum.

Quad lock. Just increased to 75% and sounds much more clear, meaning you don't have to crank the volume/increase signal via the knob/steering wheel to get the same output.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

Agreed, this is odd. There is no reason the relay shouldn't be outputting a clean 12v without the rectifier if it's properly connected to the battery. Should not make any difference whether you tap the right or left taillight for the signal. Which positive battery terminal did you connect the relay to? I attached a screenshot from a video that shows which terminal I used.

Assuming you bought the 2 pack of relays from Amazon that I recommended, have you tried connecting the other one just to rule out the unlikely case of a bad relay?

Super weird, but glad you got it working.

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Hmm that's weird, did you measure what voltage you were getting to #30 and see if it was actually giving you a stable 12V? I guess it's working either way for you now but seems odd.

I checked it with three relays, input voltage is 13.94V from power distribution block (same spot as your pic when the engine is on) and about the same at the output end. Maybe my camera is more sensitive to voltage changes. I am running non-OEM angel eyes that require more voltage and an amp that may be pulling more voltage from the lighting circuit causing intermittent drops. I suppose time will tell if this is a temporary bandaid. Battery is about 5 years old as well.

Top pic with relay and rectifier.
Bottom pic with rectifier only (no relay).

Overall this is a no brainer mod to bring the tech to current standard. Great mod and great support thread.

[akkando]

By only real issue at the moment is the Google or Apple map nav voice is soooooo loud relative to music. The only work around I've found is using Waze because I can set the voice volume to 7 out of 100 which is low enough to match the music volume output. Anyone else with this issue?

Other minor annoyance is sometimes when I get in car it switches to CarPlay immediately and other times it takes a minute.

Switching between my phone and passenger phone is also awkward and confusing.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by akkando

By only real issue at the moment is the Google or Apple map nav voice is soooooo loud relative to music. The only work around I've found is using Waze because I can set the voice volume to 7 out of 100 which is low enough to match the music volume output. Anyone else with this issue?

Other minor annoyance is sometimes when I get in car it switches to CarPlay immediately and other times it takes a minute.

Switching between my phone and passenger phone is also awkward and confusing.

Have you checked your settings or tried modifying the volume using your phone keys during a maps prompt?

[akkando]

The settings shown "softer" is way way way too loud.

I have not tried using phone keys during prompt.

[Nazty Naze One!]

where are we mounting the relay for the rear-view camera?

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by akkando

The settings shown "softer" is way way way too loud.

I have not tried using phone keys during prompt.

Hmm, same thing for Apple maps?

I noticed the occasional low quality voiceover but not a big volume issue.

https://support.apple.com/guide/ipho...hac2e74dc5/ios

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Nazty Naze One!

where are we mounting the relay for the rear-view camera?

I zip-tied mine to one of the factory wire harnesses by the battery, can't remember the exact location. Just eyeball it when you're doing the install and put it anywhere that looks like a good spot and allows you to run the wires easily.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Hmm, same thing for Apple maps?

I noticed the occasional low quality voiceover but not a big volume issue.

https://support.apple.com/guide/ipho...hac2e74dc5/ios

Yup. I think my gf phone has same issue. Only thing I changed was EQ based on someone's suggestion here. I could reset that. Aux volume in the idrive. Maybe the idrive somehow knows it's nav/system audio add that's turned up really high. I guess I'll investigate.

[Metrics]

Originally Posted by Metrics

Ladies and Gents

I've just posted on the original (big!) thread but as this is Carsara specific I hope someone can help/advise me please. I've followed this thread with interest - thanks to Cyberdemon and you all for making this such a helpful resource

I run a 2012 F10 Alpina (sorry ) with CIC and decided to take the plunge with a Carsara box and installed it today. It's almost there but I have the exact same problem as PACarGuy - after 1 min I get the same error message, see image.

Like your E9* installations, my car did not need the iDrive loom - the controller works the screen perfectly. A# is connected to B#.
I've tried connecting L# to B# but then the display does not come on at all.
I've also tried connecting the IDrive loom in case this works, but nothing with that either.
The most successful option is A# direct to B# with L# not attached to anything, but I get this error message every 1 min.

Any suggestions guys? I wonder if something is needed into the feed L# and this is tripping the message??

One other quirk is if I turn on the radio with the ignition off, before the install I'd get the iDrive screen switch on and radio would play. Now radio plays but I get no iDrive screen, only an orange screen.
But if I turn the ignition on, normal BMW splash screen and iDrive screen loads as normal.

Other than this it seems to work ok. I've emailed carsara and hope they can help, or I hope someone can advise me on how to solve?

On audio, like you guys I've tried to code out AUX from the console to HU only but I only get the first code option CDMM_AUX_HU - I've changed to "aktiv"
But I can't find the USB_SINGLE or DOUBLE
Currently I am only getting audio if I connect the aux wire into the console (so it's still live despite the one code change I made)

Any advice would be gratefully received

Quick update on this, but don't want to clog/confuse your thread given most folk come here for E9* M3 while I'm an imposter with a F10!

My car required the CIC-KT connected to iDrive and connection to A#, with B# having the loop D# connected.

Now all working perfectly in my F10.

Thank you for your input chaps.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by Metrics

Quick update on this, but don't want to clog/confuse your thread given most folk come here for E9* M3 while I'm an imposter with a F10!

My car required the CIC-KT connected to iDrive and connection to A#, with B# having the loop D# connected.

Now all working perfectly in my F10.

Thank you for your input chaps.

That's still good info and hopefully gets included in the first post of this thread that it's a solution for f10.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by akkando

That's still good info and hopefully gets included in the first post of this thread that it's a solution for f10.

NP Added a F10 bullet to the notes.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I zip-tied mine to one of the factory wire harnesses by the battery, can't remember the exact location. Just eyeball it when you're doing the install and put it anywhere that looks like a good spot and allows you to run the wires easily.

Originally Posted by Nazty Naze One!

where are we mounting the relay for the rear-view camera?

I screwed to the body. I need to clean up the wiring (will be done when I complete the on/off switch). You don’t want the relay banging around back there.

[Nazty Naze One!]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

I screwed to the body. I need to clean up the wiring (will be done when I complete the on/off switch). You don’t want the relay banging around back there.

Thanks again 🙏🏽

[Bubbles]

I switched the dip switches to 347, which eliminated two of the fault errors I was seeing with ISTA+. Amp communication fault remains and an intermittent CIC fault. I may remove the extension LVDS cable to see if it helps. Interestingly, INPA can communicate with the amp as it is reading OK.

For people running the iDrive cable are you seeing communication errors?

I may connect the iDrive cable to see if the errors clear.

I need to build in a delay off for the Backup camera. Use is limited for 6MT.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

I switched the dip switches to 347, which eliminated two of the fault errors I was seeing with ISTA+. Amp communication fault remains and an intermittent CIC fault. I may remove the extension LVDS cable to see if it helps. Interestingly, INPA can communicate with the amp as it is reading OK.

For people running the iDrive cable are you seeing communication errors?

I may connect the iDrive cable to see if the errors clear.

I need to build in a delay off for the Backup camera. Use is limited for 6MT.

Per my other thread about the broken iDrive knob, you can see I was getting those errors but they were totally intermittent and didn't result in any obvious problems. So I think the Carsara box intercepting signals just doesn't play nicely for communications (the same way we can't code properly without certain conditions met).

Most of those errors would clear when I would rescan which means I wouldn't worry too much.

[magungo]

Can anyone post their audio settings? I am told that the people i call on the phone are getting a really bad echo. I've tried to adjust everything and it's still bad.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by magungo

Can anyone post their audio settings? I am told that the people i call on the phone are getting a really bad echo. I've tried to adjust everything and it's still bad.

I haven't modified the BT audio settings, did not have any call issues with the default settings. If you are getting an echo I believe there is a delay setting you can try increasing and see if that helps?

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Per my other thread about the broken iDrive knob, you can see I was getting those errors but they were totally intermittent and didn't result in any obvious problems. So I think the Carsara box intercepting signals just doesn't play nicely for communications (the same way we can't code properly without certain conditions met).

Most of those errors would clear when I would rescan which means I wouldn't worry too much.

I’m going to email the seller on this. I’m updating the DME so I’m going to uninstall it to avoid any issues.

[romero1990]

did you guys route the backup camera under the trim like the video? I got the aliexpress one in today and have been watching the installation video a few times. Seems like the biggest hassle for me is pry open all the trims and try to put them back without damaging any plastic pieces.

Also .. do you actually remove the entire glove box?

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by romero1990

did you guys route the backup camera under the trim like the video? I got the aliexpress one in today and have been watching the installation video a few times. Seems like the biggest hassle for me is pry open all the trims and try to put them back without damaging any plastic pieces.

Also .. do you actually remove the entire glove box?

Yes I removed the trim, if you have a trim puller set it's not that bad. The clips are surprisingly tough. For the lower door panel kick panel ones, remove all the clips after the trim is off, then reinstall them by sliding them in from the sides and it'll be much easier than trying to force it on from above I found.
That part wasn't that bad for me.

I didn't remove the whole glove box. Remove the underside panel and you should have enough room to route it underneath and behind.

[E60525d]

Originally Posted by E60525d

On Google maps, the voice instructions sounds is very distorted. I have tried two phones and same issues.

Does anyone else have this issue?

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

I have this intermittently, but it seems to be only while music is playing. If you search the web this seems to be a frequently raised issue with how Google is handling their audio stream, but no one seems to have a recommendation that is a guaranteed fix and it appears to happen both on Carplay and Android auto.

It seems like there were a variety of suggestions including it only happening when the volume on the phone is set too high, reinstalling/re-pairing the phone, or just using a different app.

People report this happening on factory and aftermarket head units with both AA and Carplay, so unfortunately it seems to be a Google specific issue. If it happens constantly, perhaps try tweaking the volume to see if anything makes it better or worse. Does yours happen constantly, or only while audio is playing?

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

I've primarily been using CarPlay since my android device is my work phone but next time I have some time I'll look at it.

My initial thought is it's a Bluetooth stack thing. Different phones use older or newer BT protocols and some protocols might not be playing nice together. What devices/Android OS are you using? I do a lot of work with Android development for work I might be able to test with a similar OS and see if I can replicate or fix it. But just searching the net it seems a lot of people have mentioned it. I only had it intermittently but that was on CarPlay not android auto.

Right, I have spent some time and think I have found the problem.

So to recap, the issue I have is the maps voice is very loud when I get instructions. But all the other sounds from Youtube Music, Spotify, etc is fine.

The problem appears to be the sound settings in the Carsara menu is too high. The volume is set to 12 from memory which is the max.

I thought this setting works quite well because when I switch from my car audio source (radio, CD, USB) to either Carplay or Android auto, the volume level carries across and is the same.

So If i reduce the volume in the Carsara settings, it does indeed reduce the voice instructions in nav which therfore fixes the issue. BUT this also means the volume for everything else (youtube, Spottify) and also been lowered too.