Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[fs34]

Does anyone have a full set of recommended eq settings for individual audio in the e9x m3?

[Thumbie]

Originally Posted by fs34

Does anyone have a full set of recommended eq settings for individual audio in the e9x m3?

yes, Malek posted this a few years back. It's been posted in this thread multiple times.

Note there is a difference between e90 and e92
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428114

These are set in the factory system, not in the mr12volt. I used these settings, and left the mr12volt flat.

[avivienni]

Is anyone else having issues accessing the Factory Mode? I’m putting in the password ‘688612’ but when I hit Ok nothing happens. It does the animation of clicking the button but no messages or new screens pop up. Any help would be appreciated thanks!

[fs34]

Originally Posted by Thumbie

yes, Malek posted this a few years back. It's been posted in this thread multiple times.

Note there is a difference between e90 and e92
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428114

These are set in the factory system, not in the mr12volt. I used these settings, and left the mr12volt flat.

Thank you, I should have asked the question differently. I have the Malek settings in the factory unit, I wasn’t sure if that needed to be translated to the MR12Volt eq. I’ll just leave the Mr12Volt flat.

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by fs34

Thank you, I should have asked the question differently. I have the Malek settings in the factory unit, I wasn’t sure if that needed to be translated to the MR12Volt eq. I’ll just leave the Mr12Volt flat.

I used Maleks settings and just left the Mr12Volt eq flat. I’m too deaf to reinvent the wheel but I do appreciate the improved and noticeable changes with Maleks tweaks.

[Spectre]

Originally Posted by avivienni

Is anyone else having issues accessing the Factory Mode? I’m putting in the password ‘688612’ but when I hit Ok nothing happens. It does the animation of clicking the button but no messages or new screens pop up. Any help would be appreciated thanks!

I also had this issue. Anyone able to shed info about this?

[Vostec]

I'm one of the ones having issues with their CarPlay device playing a high pitched noise and no sound until I switch to radio and back to CD.
Mr12Volt support told me I should remove and reconnect the device, sadly there's still no improvement.

Now I think might be on to something:
I've installed the Mr12Volt box myself before hiring someone to do the CDC coding for me. He had trouble reaching the CIC control unit with NCSExpert so he had to use NCS Dummy for the coding.
In the meanwhile I purchased an OBD cable and windows laptop myself and connected it to my car last week. I tried to do the coding of the voice activation feature and couldn't connect to my car. I watched many hours of tutorials, thinking I have a wrong configuration, still no luck. That's when I tried to connect to a different control unit for fun. And it worked. I can connect to every control unit in my car besides CIC, because it is now connected to the Mr12Volt unit.

tl;dr:
Is the wrong order of installation and the use of NCS Dummy for coding instead of NCSExpert the reason my Mr12Volt device is behaving like this?

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by Spectre

I also had this issue. Anyone able to shed info about this?

Factory Mode settings are disabled for the end-user now.

[foxy_methoxy]

Originally Posted by SVP

Hi all,

I still have the echo issue. I don't hear any echo when calling in the car, but the caller does hear himself/herself. Strangely, the echo only appears after approx. 2 minutes in the call. Does anyone has similar issues?

The Mr12volt unit also occasionally freezes, and needs a reset by holding the idrive knob.

I had the same issue with the older version without oem microphone support.
They sent me the newer version with oem mic support and just like you the echo appears after a couple of minutes into the call.
Also the callers reported low volume of my voice with the oem mic solution.
Im still in contact with the support and check if they have any solution.
Interstingly im having this issue in my audi a6 c7 so it is not only a bmw specific problem.

[foxy_methoxy]

Originally Posted by georgebmwM3

I ordered the new unit today, but only got $35 off the price even though I ordered in the past. Did anyone get a better discount?

I manged to recive the new unit for free, after i reported the microphone echo and black screen issues.
microphone echo still appears after a couple of minutes into the call.

[Thumbie]

Originally Posted by foxy_methoxy

I manged to recive the new unit for free, after i reported the microphone echo and black screen issues.
microphone echo still appears after a couple of minutes into the call.

Do you have the new unit (the green one)?

[hirequar]

My LVDS Cable is extremely short, I can't pull it any longer.

I don't know why it's suddenly so short.

What can I do?

I need that for the original iDrive CCC system.

please help me

Here is a video:

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by hirequar

My LVDS Cable is extremely short, I can't pull it any longer.

I don't know why it's suddenly so short.

What can I do?

I need that for the original iDrive CCC system.

please help me

Here is a video:

if you have patience with the cable you can completely remove it, its just stuck on something if you wiggle it left and right slowly it would move freely.

[hirequar]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

if you have patience with the cable you can completely remove it, its just stuck on something if you wiggle it left and right slowly it would move freely.

How do you mean "completely remove it"?

I tried it, but nothing happens...

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by hirequar

How do you mean "completely remove it"?

I tried it, but nothing happens...

if you wiggle it left to right and right to left, you can pull it completely out from the top screen side of the dash. and then you can put it in the bottom of the cavity where the idrive unit and mr12volt sits. That wire does not need to be where the original screen is anymore because it's not necessary to be there. It's used to connect the Mr12volt and CCC together.

[Matt@Evolve]

We did a video of installing and testing the CICMM to our E92 M3, along with the Induktiv charger which is proving to be a brilliant combo!

It's definitely 90% there, way better than not having it but now and then it will do something annoying or you have to reboot it.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by Matt@Evolve

We did a video of installing and testing the CICMM to our E92 M3, along with the Induktiv charger which is proving to be a brilliant combo!

It's definitely 90% there, way better than not having it but now and then it will do something annoying or you have to reboot it.

Would be nice for you guys to give a shoutout to us here at M3post for discovering, working out the kinks and sharing info on this device instead of acting like you discovered it all on your own.

[Adam M]

Is there a how to in this thread on changing the bootloader screen in the newer model?

I have no idea why they removed the facility from the factory, but would like to change it.

[gh0stE92M3]

Originally Posted by Adam M

Is there a how to in this thread on changing the bootloader screen in the newer model?

I have no idea why they removed the facility from the factory, but would like to change it.

Preparation:

A USB stick 16GB or less, FAT32 formatted (or erase a larger USB stick and create an active partition of 16GB or less)

Create your own boot up logo:
The resolution of screen may vary on different car models, please check for the best resolution that will fit your car
The boot image file must be 30kb or less

PC users with Windows:
Use Windows Painter to save your boot image into a .jpg file, filename must be bootlogo.jpg
Then use file manager to remove the file extension .jpg from the file bootleg.jpg
If you create the image in Photoshop, make sure the jpeg is output with "baseline encoding”

Mac users:
For Mac users it is important not only to rename the jpg file, but also to go to information and remove suffix. Otherwise it will still be .jpg

Changing the boot image:
Unzip the update tool in the attachment, you will get two files:
update
bootlogo
Replace the file bootlogo with the new bootlogo you have just created
now place these two files into the USB stick

Plug the usb stick into the p2000 then go to
P2000>Setting>System>Factory>select Reboot
Once reboot you should see the new logo created by you

bootlogo change

Honestly I don’t know why they require such low memory storage devices. If you need to update firmware you need an 8 gig micro lol.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by gh0stE92M3

If you need to update firmware you need an 8 gig micro lol.

Not true. You can use up to a 32GB microSD card for firmware updates:

https://www.mr12volt.com/pages/p2000...ftware-updates

The 32GB limit is due to the max (official) size of a FAT32 partition.

As a practical example of this limitation in modern computing, the windows UEFI boot loader still has to reside on a fat32 partition, because UEFI cannot boot straight from a NTFS partition.

[hirequar]

Good morning,

I recently connected the Mr12Volt MOST Bus Box to my CCC.

The whole thing also works, the original system also works and the controls etc. all work (there is power on it)
The seat heating, PDC etc. work.

But the air conditioning and heating do not. My windows have also steamed up since then because the heating doesn't work. I never had any problems with this before.

No warm air comes out of the front at all. Even if I set it to 28°C, everything is running at maximum, set to red and the control dial to I (engine is warm), cold air even comes out of the back.
The snowflake (symbol) and automatic is on. You can also clearly hear the ventilation.

I have also completely removed and reinstalled everything again, but this has not helped. I've had the problem since the installation.

The climate control panel and all other cables are connected. 3 cables are plugged into the air conditioning control unit (without these there is no power, but I have it), one flat thin one to plug in and 2 others with levers.

I have attached the error memory. There are a lot of errors.

I also looked in the passenger footwell, nothing is loose there.
You only disconnect one cable there for the small light bulb.

I wonder what that could be now?

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by hirequar

Good morning,

I recently connected the Mr12Volt MOST Bus Box to my CCC.

The whole thing also works, the original system also works and the controls etc. all work (there is power on it)
The seat heating, PDC etc. work.

But the air conditioning and heating do not. My windows have also steamed up since then because the heating doesn't work. I never had any problems with this before.

No warm air comes out of the front at all. Even if I set it to 28°C, everything is running at maximum, set to red and the control dial to I (engine is warm), cold air even comes out of the back.
The snowflake (symbol) and automatic is on. You can also clearly hear the ventilation.

I have also completely removed and reinstalled everything again, but this has not helped. I've had the problem since the installation.

The climate control panel and all other cables are connected. 3 cables are plugged into the air conditioning control unit (without these there is no power, but I have it), one flat thin one to plug in and 2 others with levers.

I have attached the error memory. There are a lot of errors.

I also looked in the passenger footwell, nothing is loose there.
You only disconnect one cable there for the small light bulb.

I wonder what that could be now?

Best guess:

One of the cables going to the climate control interface is either not connected properly or damaged.

This is the only part of the climate control system that is touched during the install process and would explain the symptoms.