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      02-22-2021, 01:02 PM   #16171
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It was explained to me that a hubcentric ring is not carrying load and that's why most of them are just plastic. It is only used to center the wheel on the hub if the centerbores are different. If we are talking about a spacer, then all bets are off because the mounting/clamping surfaces are not wheel-to-hub anymore.
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      02-22-2021, 02:20 PM   #16172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
It was explained to me that a hubcentric ring is not carrying load and that's why most of them are just plastic. It is only used to center the wheel on the hub if the centerbores are different. If we are talking about a spacer, then all bets are off because the mounting/clamping surfaces are not wheel-to-hub anymore.
This is correct. The bolts/studs support the wheel, not the hub.
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      02-22-2021, 02:57 PM   #16173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhyary View Post
It is my understanding that hub centric is not just for mounting and it does function after all is bolted down. Perhaps it is important in case a stud broke? Unless someone like Tom from Core40 get into this discussions with data, it is very hard to know if engineering supports our opinions.

All I can say is that i am not comfortable running a spacer thicker than 3mm with out the spacer provides the lip.
I totally agree. The 5mm provided enough space for my Titan7 wheel but I'm sure there are some wheels that do not have enough lip if they are chamfered enough.

I like the genius idea of the hub externder that Turner sells for F8x hubs
>> chamfered

This is the word I was looking for.
On my wheels with 5mm the hub is floating in the chamfered portion of the wheel.
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      02-22-2021, 04:04 PM   #16174
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okay who else is mind-boggled at Dry ice blasting for cleaning!?



$1600 to clear the underbody seems somewhat costly but wow.
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      02-22-2021, 04:26 PM   #16175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
okay who else is mind-boggled at Dry ice blasting for cleaning!?



$1600 to clear the underbody seems somewhat costly but wow.
Just discovered this recently as well, hoping to get it done for less than that at some point in time.

Curious if they can do the same to the engine bay?
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      02-22-2021, 04:33 PM   #16176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Just discovered this recently as well, hoping to get it done for less than that at some point in time.

Curious if they can do the same to the engine bay?
Yes. From my research it looks pretty much safe for any surface.



I saw a hoonigan focus video on a honda shop that mentioned the Mugen NSX and dry ice blasting..and this has lead me to here.

The prices are Souther California pricing so I imagine it could be cheaper out by your end!
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Last edited by derbo; 02-22-2021 at 04:39 PM..
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      02-22-2021, 04:43 PM   #16177
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on anything with plastic in it no freakin way
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      02-22-2021, 08:23 PM   #16178
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dry ice has been used for a while as a 'cleaner'. Especially useful if the stuff being cleaned off is hazardous as your volume of hazardous waste is smaller. NASA did a lot of studies on this technique in the 1990's, iirc. You can buy your own machine for $3k (on up to $50k).
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      02-23-2021, 10:32 AM   #16179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
dry ice has been used for a while as a 'cleaner'. Especially useful if the stuff being cleaned off is hazardous as your volume of hazardous waste is smaller. NASA did a lot of studies on this technique in the 1990's, iirc. You can buy your own machine for $3k (on up to $50k).

Yea thats what I've been reading. It's been used on large machinery in the Food industry as well! The extra cold temperatures actually help sanitize the machinery too!

Very cool that it is being applied to vehicles too.
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      02-23-2021, 02:32 PM   #16180
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I'm selling dis one
Tell me more!
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      02-23-2021, 08:52 PM   #16181
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Had my Stoptech rotor hats stripped and re-anodized, went with a Type III, class 1 (no dyes) hard anodized finish, should resist fading and color changing better with heat cycles. This is similar to what Stoptech does or used to do with their Trophy kits. I've heard they stopped doing this for some new kits but hope that is not the case.

Happy the initial results though we'll see how they hold up after some track time.

I also pulled my front heat shields since someone mentioned Essex recommended it and I'm attaching new slotted rotor rings to these.
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      02-23-2021, 09:01 PM   #16182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Had my Stoptech rotor hats stripped and re-anodized, went with a Type III, class 1 (no dyes) hard anodized finish, should resist fading and color changing better with heat cycles. This is similar to what Stoptech does or used to do with their Trophy kits. I've heard they stopped doing this for some new kits but hope that is not the case.

Happy the initial results though we'll see how they hold up after some track time.

I also pulled my front heat shields since someone mentioned Essex recommended it and I'm attaching new slotted rotor rings to these.
Wow very cool! Interested to see how these hold up vs replacing my hats
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      02-23-2021, 09:03 PM   #16183
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Thinking about driving down to VIR for a track day this year from PA, about a 5 hour 30 min drive.

Mathematically it can be done in a day, but should I? have you?
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      02-23-2021, 09:15 PM   #16184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Had my Stoptech rotor hats stripped and re-anodized, went with a Type III, class 1 (no dyes) hard anodized finish, should resist fading and color changing better with heat cycles. This is similar to what Stoptech does or used to do with their Trophy kits. I've heard they stopped doing this for some new kits but hope that is not the case.

Happy the initial results though we'll see how they hold up after some track time.

I also pulled my front heat shields since someone mentioned Essex recommended it and I'm attaching new slotted rotor rings to these.
Ya, I'm a big fan of Hard Clear.
Hard Black can get a little psychedelic over time, just being exposed to UV.
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      02-23-2021, 09:46 PM   #16185
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No more gold hats for stoptech
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      02-23-2021, 09:53 PM   #16186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Had my Stoptech rotor hats stripped and re-anodized, went with a Type III, class 1 (no dyes) hard anodized finish, should resist fading and color changing better with heat cycles. This is similar to what Stoptech does or used to do with their Trophy kits. I've heard they stopped doing this for some new kits but hope that is not the case.

Happy the initial results though we'll see how they hold up after some track time.

I also pulled my front heat shields since someone mentioned Essex recommended it and I'm attaching new slotted rotor rings to these.
looks great, what did that run you?
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      02-23-2021, 10:08 PM   #16187
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I want to cerrakote stuff.
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      02-23-2021, 11:50 PM   #16188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Had my Stoptech rotor hats stripped and re-anodized, went with a Type III, class 1 (no dyes) hard anodized finish, should resist fading and color changing better with heat cycles. This is similar to what Stoptech does or used to do with their Trophy kits. I've heard they stopped doing this for some new kits but hope that is not the case.

Happy the initial results though we'll see how they hold up after some track time.

I also pulled my front heat shields since someone mentioned Essex recommended it and I'm attaching new slotted rotor rings to these.
looks great, what did that run you?
~$150 total at a local shop that mainly anodizes medical and industrial parts.
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      02-24-2021, 07:55 AM   #16189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grip Addict View Post
Thinking about driving down to VIR for a track day this year from PA, about a 5 hour 30 min drive.

Mathematically it can be done in a day, but should I? have you?
I'm 8-10h from VIR and it can be done in a day, but best not to.

VIR is worth it though. That and the Glen are two spectacular tracks
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      02-24-2021, 08:07 AM   #16190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Had my Stoptech rotor hats stripped and re-anodized, went with a Type III, class 1 (no dyes) hard anodized finish, should resist fading and color changing better with heat cycles. This is similar to what Stoptech does or used to do with their Trophy kits. I've heard they stopped doing this for some new kits but hope that is not the case.

Happy the initial results though we'll see how they hold up after some track time.

I also pulled my front heat shields since someone mentioned Essex recommended it and I'm attaching new slotted rotor rings to these.
Man, I've wanted to do this too real bad. Mostly because I just want a different color and not boring black. I think I was quoted around $200-250 for all 4 hats when I inquired. The downtime is what has kept me from doing it yet.
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      02-24-2021, 08:15 AM   #16191
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Yeah those look like the older Trophy hats. Very nice.
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      02-24-2021, 02:09 PM   #16192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
I'm 8-10h from VIR and it can be done in a day, but best not to.

VIR is worth it though. That and the Glen are two spectacular tracks
So if 8-10 in one day is possible for you, but you advise against it. Then 5-6 is a firm hell yeah? lol
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