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01-21-2021, 08:16 PM | #133 | |
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01-21-2021, 08:25 PM | #134 | |
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The first time I fired up the unit I had a red screen. I turned it off and back on and the screen came up properly. Make sure your extension lvsd cable is plugged in correctly and firmly. You have to tuck the wire neatly behind the unit otherwise it will get pinched and cause a malfunction. Check the pins to make sure they aren’t bent and not seating properly. Remove the loop D and connect A to B.
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01-21-2021, 08:28 PM | #135 | ||
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01-21-2021, 08:38 PM | #137 | |
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01-21-2021, 09:14 PM | #138 | |
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-per their instructions I'd try Combo 2 - remove the IDrive controller harness entirely and just do A#->B# -The display may still be unrelated - try swapping the LVDS cables if you haven't already. Make sure they're all seated correctly, I had mine backwards initially. -flipping the dip switches might be causing you more problems. If that sets the video output mode and the box is still powered it may cause an issue. My box only has 3/4 on, so I would only try that or 3/4/7. Consider disconnecting the battery and then letting it all power back up.
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01-21-2021, 09:26 PM | #139 | ||
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For the LVDS cables I have teal/pink connected and the tan back into the tan connection. Will give these a try tmrw. Thanks
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01-21-2021, 09:26 PM | #140 | ||
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01-21-2021, 09:46 PM | #141 | |
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Last edited by Bubbles; 01-21-2021 at 09:55 PM.. |
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01-22-2021, 12:25 AM | #142 | ||
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01-22-2021, 08:49 AM | #143 | |
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If you were trying to use the tail light to get the 12V from then that's why the relay didn't work. The voltage rectifier is just a capacitor that is able to store more of that energy so it can output a stable 12V, but if it's being fed by a lower voltage source it's only going to work for a short period of time and then your camera will destabilize again.
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01-22-2021, 08:59 AM | #144 | |
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The amp and supporting equipment went through seven revisions from 2009-2013, which may explain why the need for several dip switch options.
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01-22-2021, 09:13 AM | #145 |
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A to B did the trick. 3/4/7 is the working dip switch setting.
Question: is there a way to get full screen back up camera? I get the parking sensor graphic but do not have rear parking sensors on my car (don't think M3's came with front sensors).
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01-22-2021, 09:23 AM | #146 | |
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I added the voltage rectifier in between the relay and camera at the output #87 red line to #87 and the #85 ground to the camera. Taillight + wire to relay white line #86 12v+ from battery power distribution block to blue line #30 Black line #85 to ground Red line #87 to voltage rectifier Voltage rectifier —-> camera positive (red line) and camera negative (black line) I did not get consistent voltage out of the relay especially when the car is warming up (the exact time you need the camera). Voltage evens out after car is warmed up. It is possible that locating the 12v line tap somewhere solves this but I prefer to keep it at the distribution block.
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01-22-2021, 09:34 AM | #147 |
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Yes, go into the Carsara camera settings, there is an option for full screen. It requires a system reboot to take effect though.
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01-22-2021, 09:38 AM | #148 | |
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01-22-2021, 10:17 AM | #149 | |
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Any thoughts?
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01-22-2021, 10:25 AM | #150 | |
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You still need to remove the "loop" from the carsara idrive connectors and connect A to B if I recall correctly even if not using their cable to connect the CiC controller. I had their cable plugged into the harness but not my controller and it all works fine as it gets the signal from the quadlock but I think the carsara unit looks for its harness and needs the a to b connection
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01-22-2021, 10:32 AM | #151 | ||
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Assuming you bought the 2 pack of relays from Amazon that I recommended, have you tried connecting the other one just to rule out the unlikely case of a bad relay? Super weird, but glad you got it working.
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01-22-2021, 10:33 AM | #152 | |
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01-22-2021, 01:07 PM | #153 | |
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In regards to this issue, I think there was a wire pinched somewhere. The RCAs were solid and the red > yellow connection looked good. I actually left the battery "live", pulled out the Carsara unit, moved it around, restarted the car/engine and VOILA! I think there was a pinched connection. Does anyone get a slight "hum" when the volume is really turned up? Also, I believe I read somewhere that the Aux audio volume in the iDrive menu needs to be set @ 50% - is that correct? Feels great to have the car brought into the "20's" of tech, LOL
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01-22-2021, 01:32 PM | #154 | |
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