E93 M3 Random starting problem. (100% SOLVED)

[pbonsalb]

Did you check your engine ground cable?

[ec_E92]

+1 on the ground cable. $40 part and easy to DIY. Start there, I have a thread somewhere around here on it.

[Impastokitsch]

Originally Posted by anom3

Yikes, tough luck

Yeah to check the starter you need to remove the pleneum or whatever its called. The big black box on top of the motor. You will also need to remove / move quite a few other items out of the way. The starter is located near the back of the motor, in between the 2 heads. Kind of a pain to get to.

Here is a good image of where the starter is located... In this image its removed, but this should give you a good idea.



As far as EWS... Not 100% sure, but I think it would throw a code.

But yeah, starter is where I would start checking next for sure. Also, its ok to start the car with the big black box off. But your idea about wiring wires and running them out so you can test whenever need be is good too. Yeah I know, very time consuming...

Another simple thing to try would be if you have a 2nd key, try using that key and see if it helps.

E93 M3 starting issues
Impastokitsch21 min
ago
Car always have elv fault code. After clearing them, it will come back

Car comes with comfort access

Problem not so frequent until recently i changed my battery and alternator
(Before changed of battery, this happen once every 10 cranks)

(After changing of a new bigger amp battery, and new alternator, it happen everytime) battery was registered via ista btw! Voltage running smooth 12.3-13-5v

The video clearly will shows what is happening

The car will only start up after 3-4 tries of off- on ignition


Tried checking via ista and it shows CAS having issues and mechanics are recommending to change CAS module

Could this be fuse or the cas module?
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[Impastokitsch]

Originally Posted by Impastokitsch

E93 M3 starting issues
Impastokitsch21 min
ago
Car always have elv fault code. After clearing them, it will come back

Car comes with comfort access

Problem not so frequent until recently i changed my battery and alternator
(Before changed of battery, this happen once every 10 cranks)

(After changing of a new bigger amp battery, and new alternator, it happen everytime) battery was registered via ista btw! Voltage running smooth 12.3-13-5v

The video clearly will shows what is happening

The car will only start up after 3-4 tries of off- on ignition


Tried checking via ista and it shows CAS having issues and mechanics are recommending to change CAS module

Could this be fuse or the cas module?
Appreciate0EDIT POST
 Refresh Thread Auto Refresh

Carly fault codes captured

[Scores]

I just had a hot starting issue. When I would go for a long drive there was a 85% chance I wouldn't be able to start the car again.

I had to wait, rock the car back the forth, and continually keep trying to start it.

Replaced the ground, after breaking the oil pan ground off. That didn't fix it.
Replaced the starter, and that seems to have solved my issue. I read the starter solenoid gets heat soaked so I'm assuming that was my issue.

Car starts faster than it ever has now.

[DetroitP]

Hi Sangria & All,
First of all, thank you for the great write-up & all the follow-ups. Much appreciated!

I have somewhat of a similar no-start issue, and have few questions.
Vehicle is a 2008 e92 DCT M3 with ~140k miles. It has an ESS supercharger kit for the past 70k miles, and recently (~2k miles ago) battery, starter, and alternator were replaced by a reputable local BMW shop. I recently started the vehicle cold, drove it within the parking lot and it stalled. It is not unusual for my car to stall when it is cold because I believe the friction torque induced by the supercharger often causes this stalling issue at colder temperatures. However, now I can’t restart the vehicle at all. I am considering replacing the KL30 relay that is behind the glove box (waiting on part arrival) but will also look into the salmon red relay you mentioned earlier. Not sure if this red relay ever did anything for you as I couldn’t trace an answer in the posts. Here are my questions:

1) Where could someone obtain a copy of the software you used?
2) Is the cable in the attached image, the same cable you referenced in some of your posts from eBay?
3) Fault codes I have are related to 2 items: 1) TCM control unit, 2) CAS car system. Any suggestions on what I should look beside the relays? I tried clearing them using a Schwaban tool, but the CAS fault is consistent.

Additional work I have done, the recall on the battery cable was replaced ~2k miles ago, and I have also checked the fuses behind the glove box and they seemed okay.

Thanks in advance

[SaNGRia]

Hey there. The cable attached for F/G series. You will need E series (K-CAN Cable for this process)

[DetroitP]

Originally Posted by DetroitP

Hi Sangria & All,
First of all, thank you for the great write-up & all the follow-ups. Much appreciated!

I have somewhat of a similar no-start issue, and have few questions.
Vehicle is a 2008 e92 DCT M3 with ~140k miles. It has an ESS supercharger kit for the past 70k miles, and recently (~2k miles ago) battery, starter, and alternator were replaced by a reputable local BMW shop. I recently started the vehicle cold, drove it within the parking lot and it stalled. It is not unusual for my car to stall when it is cold because I believe the friction torque induced by the supercharger often causes this stalling issue at colder temperatures. However, now I can’t restart the vehicle at all. I am considering replacing the KL30 relay that is behind the glove box (waiting on part arrival) but will also look into the salmon red relay you mentioned earlier. Not sure if this red relay ever did anything for you as I couldn’t trace an answer in the posts. Here are my questions:

1) Where could someone obtain a copy of the software you used?
2) Is the cable in the attached image, the same cable you referenced in some of your posts from eBay?
3) Fault codes I have are related to 2 items: 1) TCM control unit, 2) CAS car system. Any suggestions on what I should look beside the relays? I tried clearing them using a Schwaban tool, but the CAS fault is consistent.

Additional work I have done, the recall on the battery cable was replaced ~2k miles ago, and I have also checked the fuses behind the glove box and they seemed okay.

Thanks in advance

Solution found; it ended up being the new Bosch starter I recently replaced (3-6 months ago) had gone bad. So we replaced it with an OEM unit. Thx