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11-24-2016, 08:57 PM | #133 | |
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11-25-2016, 04:38 PM | #134 | |
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11-25-2016, 04:49 PM | #135 |
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Is there a trick to removing the M14 bolt that goes through the rear camber arm? Ive been trying to get the drivers sides one out for the last hour now and it doesn't want to come out. I'm even hammering it from the other side with a screwdriver and mallet and it still doesnt want to budge! Ive even raised the camber arm to different heights with a jack and nothing is working!
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11-25-2016, 11:52 PM | #136 |
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Are you using hand tools? I found it very difficult with just a socket wrench. I just used my DeWalt electric impact driver. Came out in 2 seconds.
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12-06-2016, 11:27 PM | #137 | |
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Well, after several hours....the pics were meaningless... And I would consider myself mechanically inclined. Definitely not a mechanic. I did about 5 full suspension swaps on my RSX (one on my lunch hour....and I had time left over to eat), including trying to fix the geometry with inverted tie rods, roll center correction, etc. Intake, Exhaust, Cam swap, motor mounts, remote start/alarm. The only thing I can think of that I had somebody do was Final Drive/6th gear swap/Quaife and Hondata intake gasket. I even did all the tuning on Hondata myself. Yeah for me! After completing it, my suggestions would be: 1. Front: drop the entire strut. Seems like it would be more work, but you'll save a ton of time cuz you'll have space to work. If not, grab a buddy! 2. Rear: remove the inboard LCA bolt (leave the shock bolt and outboard LCA bolt intact). This will eliminate ALL alignment of that stupid LCA bolt!). The inboard bolt/bearing is cammed....but you'll need aligned after the spring swap anyway. So I wouldn't even worry about getting it situated correctly. Tighten under load. Use a sharpie if you want it close. I did start getting some noise over RR tracks on my passenger rear. I couldn't remember if I had tightened with the suspension loaded. I think I was sooo done and just tightened everything. So I went back and loosened, loaded, tightened and the noise went away. Which kinda tells me that bearing controls wheel hop and has nothing to do with maintaining geometry. BTW, getting aligned tomorrow....need it before the snow tires go on. Supposed to snow Thurs! |
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12-07-2016, 07:21 PM | #138 | |
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09-06-2017, 08:57 AM | #139 |
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I just did this last weekend by myself. 5 hours total (I could do it again in 3 hours)
Here are my thoughts. Fronts - No problems Rear - Yes the wheel carrier bolt is truly a pain in the ass. Jack up the arm 1/2 way up, wheel carrier swings in an arc - so this ensures the holes will align. Then Put the bolt in and place a screwdriver between the strut and wheel carrier - wiggle the bolt and screwdriver and push the bolt. Went in no problem. Other side went in 3 min. Good Luck Y'all. Thanks to Bill webspace for the step by step. http://billswebspace.com/M3HRSpringInstallation Springs - Swift Spec-R Spacers - 18MM Front 12MM Rear |
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09-22-2019, 11:40 PM | #140 | |
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I just spent 2 hrs doing the rear, and 80 percent of that was spent on getting the m14 bolt in on the driverside. I found the above post, and jacked it up until the hole aligned. Luckily I had a 2nd jack. Passenger side took a few min to get lined up and in. I'll be tackling the fronts tomorrow as that should be pretty straight forward. |
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04-22-2020, 06:46 PM | #141 |
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Great guide!! Saved me a lot of time.
Did the fronts on my own today, about 30 mins each side once the car was in the air with the wheels off. Definitely don't need a spring compressor!! That was the best part, just load up the suspension, take the top nut off and slowly lower it. I'll be doing the rears tomorrow
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04-23-2020, 06:28 PM | #142 |
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Followed OP's instructions and got the rears installed!
Went super smooth, few minutes each side. For the "trouble" bolt, you just need tot jack up the arm a tiny bit and wedge a wrench in-between the strut and the hub thing, just like in OP's pic. Bolt slides right in!
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