Track forum general chit chat.

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by XCUSE_M3

ECR day 2 with NASA Texas. Found some time learning the track and was able to move up to first for TT3. Good weekend class had 5 guys sign up but only had 3 for the event : hopefully we can get more guys in Texas for TT3. Overall a good event. Here's my quickest lap of the weekend. Oh and it was hot!

What final drive are you running?

[///Mobbin]

Installed Core4Motorsports front hubs over the weekend:

[Kelse92]

I guess I need to get after it and join the ECR video club in here and finally overlay the data on my Eagles Canyon 2:08 video from three weeks ago...

Thanks for posting those flying laps ThunderMoose & XCUSE_M3! I promise I'll try to make a couple of events next year and help ya'lls numbers haha

[//steve\\]

///Mobbin, how long did the install take?

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

///Mobbin, how long did the install take?

Takes as long as
1. Jack up the car
2. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor
3. Remove 4 bolts from back of old hub.
4. Reinstall 4 bolts with new hub
5. Reinstall rotor, caliper, wheel
6. Lower car

I think 15-20 mins per side moving slowly.

Rear hubs are another question... Still haven't done those yet 😣

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Takes as long as
1. Jack up the car
2. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor
3. Remove 4 bolts from back of old hub.
4. Reinstall 4 bolts with new hub
5. Reinstall rotor, caliper, wheel
6. Lower car

I think 15-20 mins per side moving slowly.

Rear hubs are another question... Still haven't done those yet 😣

Yup, the fronts are real easy. The issue is the rears...

At the same time though, I've never broken a rear stud and they are 3 seasons old, so I'll just replace them and soldier on with the 12mm BW race studs

[XCUSE_M3]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

What final drive are you running?

4.44. 4.10 would be pretty nice for this track.

[crowtrobot]

Hi All,

Just got out in my first track weekend with a relatively new-to-me E92. I've been tracking a 128i for the last 5yr or so, running in Advanced/Solo.

What is the general consensus regarding the stock brakes? I ran PFC08s and Motul 600 with the stockers and had a mushy pedal by 20min or so, not terribly confidence-inspiring. When the car came to me, the fluid had probably not been flushed in the car's lifetime, so it was pretty grody, and it's possible I didn't get enough out when I did my flush before the event. The bleed I did at the track looked pretty clear, so I dunno.

Should the stock brakes hold up at an Advanced group pace (2:15-2:20ish at WGI), or do I need to be thinking upgrades?

[derbo]

https://hankookmotorsports.com/product/275-35zr18-rs4/


I emailed Hankook and they replied right back saying they do have it in stock! Nice for anyone looking for 275/35/18 Hankook tires. They are about $10-20 more than Z3s from TireRack after shipping/tax is accounted for (at least to me here in CA.)

I do wonder why TireRack doesn't stock them.

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by crowtrobot

Hi All,

Just got out in my first track weekend with a relatively new-to-me E92. I've been tracking a 128i for the last 5yr or so, running in Advanced/Solo.

What is the general consensus regarding the stock brakes? I ran PFC08s and Motul 600 with the stockers and had a mushy pedal by 20min or so, not terribly confidence-inspiring. When the car came to me, the fluid had probably not been flushed in the car's lifetime, so it was pretty grody, and it's possible I didn't get enough out when I did my flush before the event. The bleed I did at the track looked pretty clear, so I dunno.

Should the stock brakes hold up at an Advanced group pace (2:15-2:20ish at WGI), or do I need to be thinking upgrades?

Stock brakes will hold up to that with track pads, fluid, and ducting. Without ducting you're hosed. If you don't want to upgrade alllll the things, I'd start with GT3 control arm scoops and, beacuse you'll burn through those rotors pretty quick, a set of performance-oriented (girodisc etc.) upgrade floating front rotors

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by crowtrobot

Hi All,

Just got out in my first track weekend with a relatively new-to-me E92. I've been tracking a 128i for the last 5yr or so, running in Advanced/Solo.

What is the general consensus regarding the stock brakes? I ran PFC08s and Motul 600 with the stockers and had a mushy pedal by 20min or so, not terribly confidence-inspiring. When the car came to me, the fluid had probably not been flushed in the car's lifetime, so it was pretty grody, and it's possible I didn't get enough out when I did my flush before the event. The bleed I did at the track looked pretty clear, so I dunno.

Should the stock brakes hold up at an Advanced group pace (2:15-2:20ish at WGI), or do I need to be thinking upgrades?

You'll need some kind of upgrades. A friend ran a 2:11 at WGI with PFC direct drive rotors, which i suggest if you want to try to use the stock brakes

[XCUSE_M3]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

To keep the theme going, here's a video from ECR with NASA. Not my best lap LOL. I have been running with NASA for 6 years and have never had a DQ for 4 off until today.

First off, it was great to meet Mark aka XCUSE_M3 and Dan aka dparm.

This weekend was my first time to ever run ECR in any configuration. I drove up Thursday from Louisiana to do the Test and Tune on Friday. It was so hot, I only ran the morning sessions on Friday. I got lucky and got in behind Scott Noble and his GT3RS. Managed a 2:03.7 on the second session on my scrub pirellis.

On Saturday, I put on some 8 HC A7's and ran a 2:03 per NASA (2:02.9 per AIM) for the warm up session which put me 3rd overall. However, I only managed a 2:03.5 for the timed session. Again, it was so hot, I skipped the afternoon sessions. My time held up for first, but Mark ran a 2:03.x in the final session and it was very very hot, so I knew I'd need to send it Sunday to give him a run.

I decided I was only going to run the first session Sunday and let the chips fall where they may. With Laura and Marco bearing down on New Orleans/Baton Rouge, I wanted to get home by dinner.

I was gridded second and managed a 2:03 flat on first flyer. By the time I got to turn 3 or 4 I was up nearly a 1 second on my +/-. Tires were really grippy. I kept pushing. I over drove 9 and rather than cut my losses I tried to push through 10. I was aimed at rut at the beginning of the exit curb and tried to straddle it but went 4 off instead. 4 off is automatic DQ, so I just pitted in and loaded up. Honestly, I am not sure if I had stayed on if I would've been able to beat Mark. The car has a 2:01.x or better in it. I plan to be back next year.

Video below:

Was great seeing you out. Gave me something to drive for Sunday. Saturday I did every session just trying to catch up but the heat! Hopefully see you out to the Texas events more often. One of the e9x guys spun a bearing a few weeks before so he could not make it out.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by derbo

https://hankookmotorsports.com/product/275-35zr18-rs4/


I emailed Hankook and they replied right back saying they do have it in stock! Nice for anyone looking for 275/35/18 Hankook tires. They are about $10-20 more than Z3s from TireRack after shipping/tax is accounted for (at least to me here in CA.)

I do wonder why TireRack doesn't stock them.

It's my understanding that Motorsports have an exclusivity on a few of the more popular sizes. The main guy there Danny vanDongen recently alluded to this in the Speed Secrets Podcast; unconfirmed but that would be my guess.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Stock brakes will hold up to that with track pads, fluid, and ducting. Without ducting you're hosed. If you don't want to upgrade alllll the things, I'd start with GT3 control arm scoops and, beacuse you'll burn through those rotors pretty quick, a set of performance-oriented (girodisc etc.) upgrade floating front rotors

This is pretty spot-on from my experience. I'm running stock brakes on my track car, with brass caliper guides, good ducting, race fluid, SS lines and PFC08's and they've held up well on track using Toyo RR's and NT01's.

Overheated PFC06's (slightly) but haven't had issues since using the 08's, they have a slightly higher operating temp range. I suspect when I run A7's I will need to upgrade to the 11's, which are much more aggressive then the 08's, for the stock brakes to function well with that sticky of a tire. Otherwise they've held up well and the car is running fast time so it's not like the brakes aren't being used. Ambient temps are usually quite cool for us at the track compared to a lot of you guys in Cali/Texas area - but that's less important for brakes.

Ducting is key if you want to run stock brakes. It will make a much bigger difference then any rotor upgrade alone. Both would be best, but likely not required.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by XCUSE_M3

Was great seeing you out. Gave me something to drive for Sunday. Saturday I did every session just trying to catch up but the heat! Hopefully see you out to the Texas events more often. One of the e9x guys spun a bearing a few weeks before so he could not make it out.

Agree, please come out next year so we can have a chance at tires! I'm trying to get a few HPDE4 guys to stop dicking around and move up to HPDE5. I mean TT.

[turbo_joe]

Anyone coming out to Summit this weekend? I will be there with Chin on Sat/Sun

[crowtrobot]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Stock brakes will hold up to that with track pads, fluid, and ducting. Without ducting you're hosed. If you don't want to upgrade alllll the things, I'd start with GT3 control arm scoops and, beacuse you'll burn through those rotors pretty quick, a set of performance-oriented (girodisc etc.) upgrade floating front rotors

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

You'll need some kind of upgrades. A friend ran a 2:11 at WGI with PFC direct drive rotors, which i suggest if you want to try to use the stock brakes

Originally Posted by tsk94

This is pretty spot-on from my experience. I'm running stock brakes on my track car, with brass caliper guides, good ducting, race fluid, SS lines and PFC08's and they've held up well on track using Toyo RR's and NT01's.

...

Ducting is key if you want to run stock brakes. It will make a much bigger difference then any rotor upgrade alone. Both would be best, but likely not required.

Thanks for the input!

Do the PFC or Girodisc rotors last that much longer to make them worth it? Is the heat capacity that much better? Wear-wise, I could get some FCPeuro discs and warranty them when they wear through. Also, I saw some not-so-good reviews of the PFC rotors regarding fitment and cracking, is that still an issue?

Are there any off-the-shelf ducting kits (inlets, hose, backing plates)? I saw the GT4 lip has integrated inlets, but the lip itself is probably not practical for driving around the city.

The ducting sounds like the place to start, I added a 135i bumper with some brake ducts to my 128i, and this definitely helped the situation with that car.

[atopa2002]

Originally Posted by crowtrobot

Thanks for the input!

Do the PFC or Girodisc rotors last that much longer to make them worth it? Is the heat capacity that much better? Wear-wise, I could get some FCPeuro discs and warranty them when they wear through. Also, I saw some not-so-good reviews of the PFC rotors regarding fitment and cracking, is that still an issue?

Are there any off-the-shelf ducting kits (inlets, hose, backing plates)? I saw the GT4 lip has integrated inlets, but the lip itself is probably not practical for driving around the city.

The ducting sounds like the place to start, I added a 135i bumper with some brake ducts to my 128i, and this definitely helped the situation with that car.

I haven't tried this backing plate , but the it's cheaper ? 100$

I just removed my oem backing plates and rapped my bushings in heat resistant tape.
I run stock calipers with rockauto cheap rotors and the upgrades mentioned.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by atopa2002

I haven't tried this backing plate , but the it's cheaper ? 100$

I just removed my oem backing plates and rapped my bushings in heat resistant tape.
I run stock calipers with rockauto cheap rotors and the upgrades mentioned.

I have that backing plate behind my St-60's. It's a quality part and well designed. I would recommend! I haven't fitted any brake ducts to it yet but planning on doing it soon, need to figure out how to route them with my Mporium undertray.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by crowtrobot

Thanks for the input!

Do the PFC or Girodisc rotors last that much longer to make them worth it? Is the heat capacity that much better? Wear-wise, I could get some FCPeuro discs and warranty them when they wear through. Also, I saw some not-so-good reviews of the PFC rotors regarding fitment and cracking, is that still an issue?

Are there any off-the-shelf ducting kits (inlets, hose, backing plates)? I saw the GT4 lip has integrated inlets, but the lip itself is probably not practical for driving around the city.

The ducting sounds like the place to start, I added a 135i bumper with some brake ducts to my 128i, and this definitely helped the situation with that car.

By definition, if those rotors run cooler, they will last longer. Heat is what kills a lot of components. Just look at the photos of the cooling vanes on them -- much more effective than stock.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

It's my understanding that Motorsports have an exclusivity on a few of the more popular sizes. The main guy there Danny vanDongen recently alluded to this in the Speed Secrets Podcast; unconfirmed but that would be my guess.

That is interesting. Either way, at least RS4 is back as an option for 275/35/18 again for me.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by derbo

That is interesting. Either way, at least RS4 is back as an option for 275/35/18 again for me.

I'm definitely getting another set for street, wet, and instructing duty. Such an amazing tire.