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01-19-2021, 08:01 PM | #111 | |||
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01-19-2021, 08:53 PM | #112 | |
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01-19-2021, 08:57 PM | #113 | |
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01-19-2021, 09:35 PM | #114 | |
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This is turning into a PIA. Funny thing today, my phone would only connect to airplay (not CarPlay). Airplay works very well and I actually used it for a 40 minute drive. This is comical stuff. I reset everything to get back into CarPlay.
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01-20-2021, 07:19 AM | #115 |
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I noticed these instructions are different from mine, so if you buy a unit currently it's possible they've done another software or firmware revision since then.
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01-20-2021, 07:24 AM | #116 | |
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One suggestion, if you think the red wire with your RCA is causing problems, you could try just routing a wire straight through the interior (don't bother burying it yet) and see if connecting it that way solves it.
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01-20-2021, 07:25 AM | #117 |
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Yes, when you get the unit you'll see it's labelled reverse camera 12v.
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01-20-2021, 07:26 AM | #118 | ||
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01-20-2021, 01:36 PM | #119 | |||
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Carsara dip switch settings
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01-20-2021, 02:59 PM | #120 | |||
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The purple wire you are connecting to from the Carsara harness is the signal wire. When you apply 12v from the reverse lights, it tells the Carsara to switch to the backup camera input. The yellow wire is not used if you have a 6MT, and if you have DCT then you shouldn't need to run a relay in the first place.
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01-20-2021, 03:14 PM | #121 | |
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I picked up some 16ga wire + heat shrink tubing + various ring terminals for the camera portion of this installation. Here are the "camera" wire options that come out of the harness from the Carsara unit (pictures attached):
Now with the reverse camera kit wire that runs from the trunk to the headunit (Carsara), it only contains the yellow RCA and red wire (presumably 12V power). There are no other wires for "detect". So it's looks like the wire connection mapping is as follows:
The rest of the above wires are unused.
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01-20-2021, 03:48 PM | #122 | |
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You just need to make sure to change the settings in the setup per my original instructions.
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01-20-2021, 04:35 PM | #123 | ||
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01-20-2021, 06:26 PM | #124 |
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Something I want to confirm & an issue I've run into installing the camera. Hope I'm not polluting the thread too much and that it adds value for others looking to DIY.
The metal bar that holds the battery in place/down (picture attached) - did you remove the bolt and run a ring terminal underneath the bar itself? Want to get the best ground contact possible. Attempting to remove the passenger side carpet I've run into a snag trying to unscrew/remove the security screw securing this metal hook - I literally can't get it to loosen and it's in a super awkward place where I can't get leverage. I believe I need to remove it to get enough room behind the carpet to run the camera RCA/power wire combo into the cabin. I already removed the three push clips that hold in most of the carpet piece. Any tips on routing wire with this intact or loosening the screw?
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01-20-2021, 10:14 PM | #125 | |
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Grounding to the battery bracket didn't seem like an ideal solution to me. If you want the best ground possible, use the chassis ground that the battery connects to. Plus, more of the wiring is hidden behind the trunk liner this way so it's a slightly cleaner install.
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01-21-2021, 07:25 AM | #126 | |
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01-21-2021, 08:42 AM | #127 | |
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As far as ground source, it shouldn't really matter too much - ground where it makes you happy - if you want to do a ring connector and 12 gauge wire more power to you (some pun intended) It's a $28 low voltage camera, so I just used what I had on hand. Didn't feel like spending $10 on a kit of wire connectors I probably wouldn't use again any time soon. And since I just changed the battery I expect that I'll never touch those bolts ever again.
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01-21-2021, 09:31 AM | #128 | |
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01-21-2021, 09:48 AM | #129 |
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I have fold down rear seats, you should be able to tuck it under and then route it behind where the seats fold down underneath the rear seat side bolster. From there just drop it through the carpet and you shouldn't be able to see it. You can just slide it and feed it.
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01-21-2021, 10:03 AM | #130 | |
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01-21-2021, 07:05 PM | #131 | |
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Eureka! Camera issue solved. 6MT cars may require a quality relay which sends the relay output (red wire #87) output through a 12V voltage rectifier. See the picture below. The blue box with the “R” is the relay that feeds the the voltage rectifier which then feeds the camera. I went with the greenyi voltage rectifier paired with the greenyi camera link Next add on is a manual override switch to power on the camera manually (reverse not required). I’ll post pics shortly. Relay —-> voltage rectifier —-> backup camera. I am running several accessories including a radar detector, 500/1 amp, clean sweep and V3 LED angel eyes, so the system is far from stock voltage demands and may have contributed to the voltage issue.
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01-21-2021, 07:27 PM | #132 |
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Got everything plugged in, fired up and get a red-ish screen. I did not connect anything to the iDrive controller - assuming quadralock would pick it up. Is this not the case (maybe I misunderstood your comment @cyberdemon)? There were a bunch of "can" connectors that I left unconnected (Connect A#, Connect B# and Connect L#). I also removed the cable that says iDrive on one end and C# iDrive CAN/CiC-KT-v2 on the other because I wasn't plugging into anything and it would take up room. I wouldn't think if I left it plugged in it would change anything as it's not plugging into the iDrive controller itself.
When Carsara emailed me the attached instructions, they gave 3 connect options (see screenshot below for Connect A#, Connect B#, Connect L#). The "red screen of death" has me thinking it's a video connection issue. Not sure where I went wrong. I also tried multiple combinations of dip switches: 3,4 3,4,7 4,7 etc. Is our CIC screen 6.5" or 8.8"? I assume 8.8"
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