Track forum general chit chat.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by rhyary

About alignment and suspension. My experience showed that the camber of 265/35 on expensive R7, from a wear point, is similar enough to a ECSTA PS91 265/35 or 275/30.

So I think a reasonable approach given my objectives and circumstances is to adjust my settings using a less expensive tire before I use expensive tires.

What I have proven, to myself, is that while slick 235/35 is faster than any of the high performance 265-275, the alignment is not the same.

This creates a practical choice, do I align the car two different ways? or do I align the car to the 265-275 tires and alternate between expensive R7 and Inexpensive summer tire.

What are your goals for 2020? Previously you were trying to get a specific lap time at NYST but that doesn't seem to be the case anymore. Also the "Vredestein Ultrac Vorti" tire is available in 265/35 and is around the price of the Kumho. It's a higher treadwear tire but they make pretty decent tires. I have their all-weather tires on my winter vehicle and they've exceeded expectations which is generally the feedback about Vredestein.

[Grillpt]

I'd just go straight to -3.5

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by Ximian

What are your goals for 2020? Previously you were trying to get a specific lap time at NYST but that doesn't seem to be the case anymore. Also the "Vredestein Ultrac Vorti" tire is available in 265/35 and is around the price of the Kumho. It's a higher treadwear tire but they make pretty decent tires. I have their all-weather tires on my winter vehicle and they've exceeded expectations which is generally the feedback about Vredestein.

Good question.
My best time is 1:35.7 and my Aim theoretical lap is 1:34.x (I forget)

So my goal would be to break 1:35 using either A7 or R7. @ 3500Lbs it will be difficult as very few if any cars in my class get to 1:35.

To get there, i plan to setup the suspension using 275/30 or 265/35 front and 295/30/19 rear with various tires.

I am also going to try at least once 275/35 rear and 275/30 front to experience a "square" setup.

At LRP my goal is break 60 seconds and see. my best time is 61 seconds and I feel that breaking 60 seconds is doable counting on @datka, ThunderMoose and nicksm3 knowledge and experience.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by Grillpt

I'd just go straight to -3.5

Thanks.
I will do that.
My challenge with that decision was that in 2019 I was trying to make happy both 235/35 and 265/35 and that simply did not work. @ -3.0 I chewed the inside of the 235 and the outside of the 265.

2020 is all about 265/35 and 275/30

Is it April yet?

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Thanks.
I will do that.
My challenge with that decision was that in 2019 I was trying to make happy both 235/35 and 265/35 and that simply did not work. @ -3.0 I chewed the inside of the 235 and the outside of the 265.

2020 is all about 265/35 and 275/30

Is it April yet?

I hit the track in 3 weeks!

[m13s]

You should do some time trials instead of chasing lap times using tires that are counter to your goal of dropping lap said lap times.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by m13s

You should do some time trials instead of chasing lap times using tires that are counter to your goal of dropping lap said lap times.

I am not chasing lap-times when I am not on the Hoosiers R7 or A7. i am chasing other things and keeping close watch on the lap time. There is a difference.

[Datka]

Originally Posted by b4hand

Something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/07-13-BMW-3...8AAOSwX~dWsr5o

Yes. Mine looks exactly like that
With APR wing back of the car looks great

[romero1990]

Do you guys replace stock oil cooler in the front or just stay with stock? I noticed even at current norcal 53F weather, I will still get 210F oil temp on gauge on street and I can see it move up by 10-20F if I Rev up about 4K rpm. Good thing is it cools down fairly fast after I drop rpm(upshift). But the cool down is only a hair below 210 ( say 10-20F below 210F)

[m13s]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I am not chasing lap-times when I am not on the Hoosiers R7 or A7. i am chasing other things and keeping close watch on the lap time. There is a difference.

I call b.s. watching equals chasing.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by romero1990

Do you guys replace stock oil cooler in the front or just stay with stock? I noticed even at current norcal 53F weather, I will still get 210F oil temp on gauge on street and I can see it move up by 10-20F if I Rev up about 4K rpm. Good thing is it cools down fairly fast after I drop rpm(upshift). But the cool down is only a hair below 210 ( say 10-20F below 210F)

That's standard for stock. If you replace the oil cooler with a bigger one, you may also need to replace the radiator.

[Grillpt]

I rarely time myself, but when I do, I look for consistency while driving within my comfort zone

[kyippee]

Timing is ok, my Waylens camera does timing + transponders keep track as well. But I don't check until the session is over and then I surprise myself

Even if I'm not hitting new PBs, I do get positive feedback when I see I'm hitting consistently faster times. (such as consistent 2:00-2:02s with a 1:59.3 PB vs before doing consistent 2:02-2:04 with 2:00.06 PB)

[gmx]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Good question.
My best time is 1:35.7 and my Aim theoretical lap is 1:34.x (I forget)

So my goal would be to break 1:35 using either A7 or R7. @ 3500Lbs it will be difficult as very few if any cars in my class get to 1:35.

To get there, i plan to setup the suspension using 275/30 or 265/35 front and 295/30/19 rear with various tires.

I am also going to try at least once 275/35 rear and 275/30 front to experience a "square" setup.

At LRP my goal is break 60 seconds and see. my best time is 61 seconds and I feel that breaking 60 seconds is doable counting on @datka, ThunderMoose and nicksm3 knowledge and experience.

Do some reading on tire modelling; physical displacement properties and slip angle.

If each tyre displaces differently, your setup is irrelevant or not-optimal. Anecdotally, this has happened countless times in motorsport where the tender is won by a new supplier. From series where basic R-comps are tendered to slicks at high levels.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by romero1990

Do you guys replace stock oil cooler in the front or just stay with stock? I noticed even at current norcal 53F weather, I will still get 210F oil temp on gauge on street and I can see it move up by 10-20F if I Rev up about 4K rpm. Good thing is it cools down fairly fast after I drop rpm(upshift). But the cool down is only a hair below 210 ( say 10-20F below 210F)

sounds like normal behaviour, partner.

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

sounds like normal behaviour, partner.

He's not your partner , buddy

[roastbeef]

i'm not your buddy, pal.

[Bartledoo]

He's not your pal, guy.

[romero1990]

I'm all yours, lads

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by romero1990

I'm all yours, lads

We aren't your lads, friend.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by evilspiritM3

Here you go-

Lots of projects on the list:

Wheel rack
Paint
Epoxy floor
Lighting
110v power
Cabinets

Add “buy another spare wheel and tire for the trailer” to your to do list. You’ll thank me later.

Wheel rack consists of laying them on their side. Check that project off the list. . Actually, I stood pairs up in front and behind the wheel wells and strapped them to D-rings I added with a 2” wide ratchet strap.

Yeah, get something down on that wood before it gets crapped up with tire goo and oil drips. Bed liner is excruciatingly heavy, but might be the ticket for chip board flooring.

Way cool side door.

[nicksm3]

Originally Posted by gmx

Do some reading on tire modelling; physical displacement properties and slip angle.

If each tyre displaces differently, your setup is irrelevant or not-optimal. Anecdotally, this has happened countless times in motorsport where the tender is won by a new supplier. From series where basic R-comps are tendered to slicks at high levels.

Allow me to chime in as best as possible at the hour of ....past my bed time...and brain power is fading.
Align the car as aggressive as you can take it, if it's your daily then take what I said with a grain of salt.
After years of driving, on numerous tire compounds, sizes, alignment specs I found the sweet spot. Anyone that i let test drive my car has agreed that it's the sweet spot and it performs the way a track car should, balanced.
I run BFG R1 slicks 285 square on 18x10.5 rim.
Alignment is -3.7 upfront and -2 rear. Corner balanced because well...I'm 245-250lbs. Corner balanced is much needed in my case I feel.

First and foremost I learned how to drive my car at the limit with 265 front tire and 295 rear on 18" wheels .....with everything off. Then went to 275/35/18 square Slicks..everything from Hoosier, Toyo, BFG. Then went with Pirelli DH Comp slicks 285 front and 305 rear and I must say that was a wild setup, car felt good but not as balanced as I wanted it. Then for the past 2 years I've been running 285 square BFG R1 slicks. Sweet spot..lots of grip and I dialed in my 2way MCS to accommodate the square setup. Feeling of the car and especially the lighter rear end (fully gutted). Fastest I ran Limerock was 58 and it was 34 degrees outside, tires were chorded lol..never doing that again.
This year I'm going to try something new. I purchased SLICER's BBS RIA 18x10.5 with 295 square Cup 2 tires. I'm curious how the grip will be and it looks Stellar on the car! I know I'll be alittle slower on the straights at WATKINS GLEN but I'll gain some in the twisties. To add...As of a month ago I went higher with my spring rates 900 upfront and 1200 rear. I'm grinning as I wrote that because I can't wait for spring tome to arrive! I believe I may do SPL rear camber arms because I'm pretty much maxed out on the OEM system so I feel the rear should be -2.3 or -2.5.
What I'm trying to say here is trial and error, consistency. Many factors but it will make you a better performer and knowledgeable at that. Determine you're ability and to decide what's right for the style of driving you seek.