Whos running Mobil 1 0w-40?

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by Leonardo629

If you ever switch back to 10W60, please use an iphone app or decibel meter to measure the noise difference.

Maybe my ears are shot from my motorcycle days, but I really can't tell the noise difference between 0W40 and 10W60 after the engine's warmed up.

I am back on TWS after 3k km. The valve noise was 78 db with M1 and it's 76 with TWS. Hmm.

One thing for sure, my exhaust note has changed. With M1, my ///PE with test pipe setup was a lot raspier, but once I swapped to TWS, it is no more but the old deep V8 is back. I can't believe how much I've missed it. Also I feel the engine feel is a lot stronger.

Another thing I observed was after changing back to TWS, I went for a drive, and upon my return noticed the coolant had overflowed. I know I topped up the coolant when I was running M1. Do you know why this would be. I would have notice if it was there before, when I was changing oil.

[Leonardo629]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

I am back on TWS after 3k km. The valve noise was 78 db with M1 and it's 76 with TWS. Hmm.

One thing for sure, my exhaust note has changed. With M1, my ///PE with test pipe setup was a lot raspier, but once I swapped to TWS, it is no more but the old deep V8 is back. I can't believe how much I've missed it. Also I feel the engine feel is a lot stronger.

Another thing I observed was after changing back to TWS, I went for a drive, and upon my return noticed the coolant had overflowed. I know I topped up the coolant when I was running M1. Do you know why this would be. I would have notice if it was there before, when I was changing oil.

Brother, why do I feel like you spooked yourself a great deal with this 0W40/10W60 change.

First, I can't comment on the dB reading, since I don't how controlled was the reading environment, but I know most human simply can't tell the difference of 2dB, so even if the reading was dead on, you definitely didn't hear it in the first place, unless of course, you work for Dolby or something and it's your trade.

I don't know how oil can change exhaust note since engine oil is not suppose to change anything in the combustion chamber.

I think you simply overfilled your coolant, and pffft..it's gonna expand and flow out.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by Leonardo629

Brother, why do I feel like you spooked yourself a great deal with this 0W40/10W60 change.

First, I can't comment on the dB reading, since I don't how controlled was the reading environment, but I know most human simply can't tell the difference of 2dB, so even if the reading was dead on, you definitely didn't hear it in the first place, unless of course, you work for Dolby or something and it's your trade.

I don't know how oil can change exhaust note since engine oil is not suppose to change anything in the combustion chamber.

I think you simply overfilled your coolant, and pffft..it's gonna expand and flow out.

[aussiem3]

I got my BL analysis of the M1 0w-40 after running just 3000 km, and I have since gone back to TWS 10w-60. Shell 10w-60 hasn't been released in Australia through BMW dealership yet. Ignore the commentary for the time being, I am getting it corrected. Look at the lead and copper levels. They have dropped. Hmm.

[Leonardo629]

3000km and an UOA is waste of money....why? because of some ticking?

[Z K]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

I got my BL analysis of the M1 0w-40 after running just 3000 km, and I have since gone back to TWS 10w-60. Shell 10w-60 hasn't been released in Australia through BMW dealership yet. Ignore the commentary for the time being, I am getting it corrected. Look at the lead and copper levels. They have dropped. Hmm.

Looks like the 0w40 is doing well for you. Reduced engine wear is a good sign. I'd stick with it for a longer interval and check the results.

[M3ichael]

Think I'm going to try this oil on my next oil change. Has anyone else tried Ravenol Oil products.

http://www.ravenol.de/en/products/us...sae-0w-40.html

[Leonardo629]

Why would you spend double the amount to buy Ravenol when you can buy Mobil1 or Castrol that offer the same approval like MB/VW/LL-01?

For $10/liter, I would expect something exotic like Motul or Redline that contains ester.

[M3ichael]

Originally Posted by Leonardo629

Why would you spend double the amount to buy Ravenol when you can buy Mobil1 or Castrol that offer the same approval like MB/VW/LL-01?

For $10/liter, I would expect something exotic like Motul or Redline that contains ester.

Oil was complementary from a sponsor.
The rates he offers are very competitive. PM me if your interested in a quote.

[Leonardo629]

Free oil is the best!

There's really not much info on the company or the motor oil, seems like Liqui Moly is still the most popular German made oil. But judging from what I read, Ravenol is fully synthetic (Voll-Synth), and it's made of PAO like M1 0W40, so at least it's quality stuff.

Please do try the stuff, and report back.

[Gumulri]

I ended up using 10w60 again because my area hitting 90 during daytime
with aircondition on and m button on I get overheated.
soon as replaced with castrol 10w-60 everything back to normal.

[Leonardo629]

Originally Posted by Gumulri

I ended up using 10w60 again because my area hitting 90 during daytime
with aircondition on and m button on I get overheated.
soon as replaced with castrol 10w-60 everything back to normal.

How overheated? warning message on the idrive screen?

Operating temperature is between 210F and approx. 300F according to the owner's manual.

[IIAp3x]

Originally Posted by Gumulri

I ended up using 10w60 again because my area hitting 90 during daytime
with aircondition on and m button on I get overheated.
soon as replaced with castrol 10w-60 everything back to normal.

I personally never use the "M" mode when it's over 90 degrees outside... Just preference, and I don't fully trust the knock prevention in this car when it's that hot outside with the air conditioning on...

[squartus]

Been going full throttle every day and its been 95-105 for the past 2 months here, not to mention humid as hell.
Even supercharged its only running at like 230 or so spirited driving, thats with 10w60.
Going to 5w40 in another 1,000 miles and see what the heat difference is.

[Richbot]

Wow this thread is still delivering some gold

Originally Posted by Leonardo629

Brother, why do I feel like you spooked yourself a great deal with this 0W40/10W60 change.

First, I can't comment on the dB reading, since I don't how controlled was the reading environment, but I know most human simply can't tell the difference of 2dB, so even if the reading was dead on, you definitely didn't hear it in the first place, unless of course, you work for Dolby or something and it's your trade.

I don't know how oil can change exhaust note since engine oil is not suppose to change anything in the combustion chamber.

I think you simply overfilled your coolant, and pffft..it's gonna expand and flow out.

i changed to M1 and my car started locking up the left front under hard braking and my headlights seemed to turn on earlier but I switched back to TWS and it went away.

[ocd]

Subscribed

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Wow this thread is still delivering some gold

i changed to M1 and my car started locking up the left front under hard braking and my headlights seemed to turn on earlier but I switched back to TWS and it went away.

I switched to Mobil 1 0w40 when I swapped the rod bearings. If the clearances with the bearings (rod and main) are as tight as my OEM bearings suggested at 37k miles, running 10w60 is a liability.

I you look closely, you'll note that most of the people who are really in the know when it comes to engines (Kawasaki, BMRLVR, Regular Guy, Malek @ MRF, etc.) seem to recommend a switch to 0w40.

[javarithms]

I'm sure this has been mentioned before but M1 is the recommended oil for all Corvettes.

I think this paragraph from the article is very interesting:

Chevrolet has named Mobil 1 5W-30 as the recommended oil for all Corvette models. For those owners taking their Corvettes to the track or other high-performance application, the use of Mobil 1 15W-50 is encouraged to ensure full engine protection and optimal engine efficiency.

So for daily drive use a thinner oil and switch to a thicker oil for the track.


http://www.corvetteblogger.com/2014/...-and-stingray/

[0_to_60]

I have 3 samples going to blackstone.
1. TWS 10w60 (8k)
2. Edge 10w60 (8k)
3. M1 0w-40 (4k)
4. Changing again to M1, will report in 5k miles.

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by javarithms

I'm sure this has been mentioned before but M1 is the recommended oil for all Corvettes.

I think this paragraph from the article is very interesting:



So for daily drive use a thinner oil and switch to a thicker oil for the track.


http://www.corvetteblogger.com/2014/...-and-stingray/

Interesting find. I am thinking about blending Mobil 1 0w40 and 15w50. Maybe two parts 0w40 to one part 15w50. Not sure if it works like this, but for a nine-quart fill wouldn't that result in something like ~5w45?

[dreamspeed]

This whole "rod bearing hysteria" sure is helping the motor oil manufacturers and blackstone in business

I'm not advocating beating the crap out of your car and "reasonable" care should be taken to ensure many miles of enjoyment out of cars but.....some of you guys are taking this way too far....

[Gumulri]

Originally Posted by dreamspeed

This whole "rod bearing hysteria" sure is helping the motor oil manufacturers and blackstone in business

I'm not advocating beating the crap out of your car and "reasonable" care should be taken to ensure many miles of enjoyment out of cars but.....some of you guys are taking this way too far....

+1