Track forum general chit chat.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by dparm

I like the Signature Wheel designs but can't bring myself to buy these "boutique" forged wheels that have popped up out of nowhere. It's why I went with Forgeline (also custom made to spec). My decisions are always based around what I see race teams use and the R&D companies put in to their products.

If I just wanted some new wheels for the street, I would consider the Signature wheels. But that's just me.

Congratulations on being you, guess I'm just not up to your high standards.

[Chris_PDX]

Originally Posted by dparm

Dang, how did you discover that happened?

I had just ran a ~40 min session. Car sat for 5 mins in pits, then I drove a quarter of a mile to get gas and it felt fine. Came back and parked, and it sat for about an hour.

Friend went out in it and his first lap out the brake pedal went to the floor. Still stopped, but the pedal was very long. He came in, and we heard a rotational pinging noise coming from the front. Took the front tires off to check everything and found this.

The rotor/caliper was flexing, probably causing pad knock back which is why the pedal travel was long. If he had stayed out for another lap or two, probably would of just came right off. We're thinking it was slowly cracking and the heat cycle from a 40 min session at 10/10ths then cooling pinged it open.

So symptoms were: long brake pedal travel, slight vibration in steering, and rotational noise at low speeds.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

Congratulations on being you, guess I'm just not up to your high standards.

LOL it wasn't a knock on you or the car, sorry if it came off that way. I'm actually jealous because I really like their styling versus Forgeline. After feeling a lot of financial pain from cracked or bent wheels (almost $4k plus my time and aggravation), I'm extremely risk-averse.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

I'm wondering if this is why the cracking happened...

I don't think the events happened at the same time

dogbone could you please clarify?

[newbieE92]

Thank you!

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I don't think the events happened at the same time

dogbone could you please clarify?

In March 2018, I was using F.A.G.-brand OEM replacement hubs with 12mm studs. I had an intense off-track excursion in Turn 9 at Willow Springs. Three weeks later, on my next track day, again at Willow Springs, I cracked a hub and broke two studs (without going offtrack on this day). I believe the cracked hub was a unique experience due to going offtrack sideways into the dirt at 95mph three weeks prior.

In general, I replace the front hubs on a regular basis---every 1.5-2 years, so these were not old hubs.


March 2019, at Chuckwalla, I broke more studs. I couldn't take it anymore. Me and a friend decided to have brand new E90 M3 front hubs drilled out to take 14mm studs using the Rogue Engineering jig kit. So, since Spring of 2019, I've been running 14mm front studs. (I still have 12mm on the rear hubs, although I am considering buying the Future Classic rear hub flanges that are 14mm.) Everything has been running fine so far with the 14mm front studs.


My next track event may be at Chuckwalla. I have had several broken studs there. I will be curious to see how 14mm deal with that place. I am hopeful.

[roastbeef]

Ok, so no correlation to drill/tapping then.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Ok, so no correlation to drill/tapping then.

Cracking on the front E90 M3 hub due to drilling them to 14mm? NO. Everyone agrees the front hubs can take drilling to 14mm without any issues.

The rears.......well.....not everyone agrees that you can safely drill the rears and keep enough margins on the outer edges. I am one of those people. The margins are very thin on the rear hub flange when thinking of 14mm. If I wanted to go to 14mm on the rears, I would get the Future Classic flanges.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by newbieE92

Hello, fellow drivers! I’m new to this forum as I just purchased an e92 M3. Yesterday in fact. I’m not new to HPDEs. I’ve been attending 3-4 events a year for the past 6 years. I’ve been to most of the tracks in my area (i.e. Road America, BIR, Mid Ohio, MAM). Blackhawk is on my list but I haven’t made it yet. I’ve been running an e46 330 with suspension upgrades. I couldn’t be more excited about this step up in cars! My first DE in the new car will be Oktoberfast at Road America.

Are you heading to BIR with the Audi club on Sept 6-8? I'll be there.

[newbieE92]

Unfortunately, I cannot attend that event. Family obligations. ��

[Grillpt]

My advise would be get a better brake fluid. If you're on a budget I recommend AMSOil DOT 4. I've used it a ton in the past and always been happy with it. If you're not, get some SRF.

I'm new to the platform as well. My first event with the car will be WGI in October with NASA NE. Looking forward to it.

GL

[dparm]

SRF is the budget choice. Flush your fluid once a year. Buying multiple bottles of whatever else throughout the year adds up, and that doesn't even count your time and effort to do it. Plus, repeated loosening and tightening of the bleeders is risky.

[Grillpt]

Are the bleeders an issue on these cars, they known to weep? Please forgive my ignorance, as I haven't done any research regarding this..

[newbieE92]

Cool, thanks. Thoughts on SRF vs Motul 600?

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by newbieE92

Cool, thanks. Thoughts on SRF vs Motul 600?

There is no comparison

[SQ13]

Originally Posted by newbieE92

Cool, thanks. Thoughts on SRF vs Motul 600?

I’ll share my assessment re pricing:
It really isn’t more expensive than other fluids if you think about it. My car requires about 1.0 L per flush.

If I use Motul RBF600, I’ll need two 0.5 L bottles at $16 ea, and I will need to flush every six months. Four bottles for 12 months of use = $64.

SRF, I can flush every 12 months. I will need one 1.0 L bottle for the year. One bottle = $60-70. 

Cost is about the same. Half the labor with SRF. 

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by SQ13

I’ll share my assessment re pricing:
It really isn’t more expensive than other fluids if you think about it. My car requires about 1.0 L per flush.

If I use Motul RBF600, I’ll need two 0.5 L bottles at $16 ea, and I will need to flush every six months. Four bottles for 12 months of use = $64.

SRF, I can flush every 12 months. I will need one 1.0 L bottle for the year. One bottle = $60-70. 

Cost is about the same. Half the labor with SRF. 

You could even do the fcpeuro return deal on srf if you're really "thrifty".

[Exclusivs]

Nitto Guys

Sweet spot 28 cold?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

Nitto Guys

Sweet spot 28 cold?

I'd start maybe at 26 I think... it's sort of individual to the car setup and how much heat you get into them.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Grillpt

Are the bleeders an issue on these cars, they known to weep? Please forgive my ignorance, as I haven't done any research regarding this..

All it takes is one slip and you'll crossthread it. Every time you loosen and tighten you are wearing those threads down.

I have better things to do with my time than constantly bleed/flush brakes.

[Grillpt]

Can't argue with u there

[aboutsize14]

I would run what roast beef said of 26 cold. I was starting off a little higher for a long time and found myself at 26 cold as a there sweet spot. I believe if you check them right at pit exit you can get the accurate pressure hot. Would put you at 33-34 hot your looking for.