Moton Street Sport Suspension Install Review

[Nexlevmm]

well i wanna track it eventually but it will be a daily driver.

[jml]

Originally Posted by ApathyCSL

well i wanna track it eventually but it will be a daily driver.

Assuming they get the issue sorted here, this is probably the best street-track compromise due to Moton's superior high speed damping. You're probably best off asking Bimmerworld about the optimal ride height. Until someone has experimented with ultra-low ride heights at the track to confirm enough travel, droop, and no geometry side effects, I'd stay in the stock height range (<1" drop).

[rzm3]

it has been experimented by various people including manufacturers... if you read through some of the coilover related threads you will find them...

[RickyBobby]

One more quick update. If the weather holds out, I'll be at the track this Saturday. I was able to lower the rear of the car to get it close to stock ride height by removing the locking ring on the adjuster so I should be ok on track until my springs arrive. The rear shocks are still quiet but the camber plates are making some noise. I'll retorque everything soon to rule out installation error. Since the plates didn't come with bolts I had to visit home depot and I forgot to get washers. So it's quite possible that the bolts have loosened up a bit.

I don't think they've got the noise issue totally nipped in the bud but after speaking with Moton I think they are very close. Probably best for everyone to hold off on purchasing until some of us early adopters confirm long term noise free operation.

I've got to admit I was about ready to give up on these and ask for my money back because all of the growing pains, but have been holding out because I see the potential of the shocks. After spending some time in the hills this weekend with the higher rate springs, I no longer have any doubts that I bought the right setup. While it's dissapointing that moton released these just to discover all of these issues, I still think they're going to be one of the best overall packages - once all is sorted out.

[jml]

Originally Posted by rldzhao

it has been experimented by various people including manufacturers... if you read through some of the coilover related threads you will find them...

Where, I'd like to read it. I gave up after reading all the bickering between arm-chair racers and engineers.

[rzm3]

Thanks for the update.

Yeah the potential of the shocks is why I am still keeping this. The range and ease of adjustability is not matched by anyone else to this point. Hopefully I will get my shocks back in a week.

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

One more quick update. If the weather holds out, I'll be at the track this Saturday. I was able to lower the rear of the car to get it close to stock ride height by removing the locking ring on the adjuster so I should be ok on track until my springs arrive. The rear shocks are still quiet bit the camber plates are making some noise. I'll retorque everything soon to rule out installation error. Since the plates didn't come with bolts I had to visit home depot. I forgot to get washers so it's quite possible that the bolts have loosened up a bit. I don't think they've got the noise issue totally nipped in the bud but after speaking with moton I think they are very close. Probably best for everyone to hold off on purchasing until some of us early adopters confirm long term noise free operation.

I've got to admit I was about ready to give up on these and ask for my money back because all of the growing pains, but have been holding out because I see the potential of the shocks. After spending some time in the hills this weekend with the higher rate springs, I no longer have any doubts that I bought the right setup. While it's dissapointing that moton released these just to discover all of these issues I still think they're going to be one of the best overall packages - once all is sorted out.

[rzm3]

Originally Posted by jml

Where, I'd like to read it. I gave up after reading all the bickering between arm-chair racers and engineers.

The one I can remember is in James Clay's thread about Moton. The suspension geometry parameters, such as the camber, toe, etc. varies depending on the position of the wheel. It makes sense that BMW designed the dynamic geometry based on a certain 'normal' position. When a car is dropped too much, the new 'normal' position becomes the original 'heavily loaded' position. Many of the adjustment mechanisms may then be outside their operating range, such as the rear toe arm, so you will need aftermarket components to extend that range of operation.

Also you have to consider that most M3s are meant for the street and track. Dropping the car way too much will reduce the amount of suspension travel, which means that without really stiff springs, the suspension would constantly be reaching the compression limit and hitting the body mounts, which really reduces comfort.

I had my car at about -0.6" front and rear, which seems to be quite good for daily driving. I once had H&R (-1"), and I was constantly scraping, especially in a city like Houston.

[jml]

Originally Posted by rldzhao

The one I can remember is in James Clay's thread about Moton. The suspension geometry parameters, such as the camber, toe, etc. varies depending on the position of the wheel. It makes sense that BMW designed the dynamic geometry based on a certain 'normal' position. When a car is dropped too much, the new 'normal' position becomes the original 'heavily loaded' position. Many of the adjustment mechanisms may then be outside their operating range, such as the rear toe arm, so you will need aftermarket components to extend that range of operation.

Also you have to consider that most M3s are meant for the street and track. Dropping the car way too much will reduce the amount of suspension travel, which means that without really stiff springs, the suspension would constantly be reaching the compression limit and hitting the body mounts, which really reduces comfort.

I had my car at about -0.6" front and rear, which seems to be quite good for daily driving. I once had H&R (-1"), and I was constantly scraping, especially in a city like Houston.

Cool, I remember that thread now.

It was a problem on the E46 front suspension design. Two competing forces - you wanted the car to roll as little as possible to compensate for the poor camber curve, so you lowered the car to tighten it up and prevent roll (all things the same) which would in turn make the camber curve worse.

[RickyBobby]

Back to your original topic. I have a couple of install tips to add:

You should add some loctite to the collar that holds the front sway bar down. Mine kept coming loose even though I tightened them every so often.

Also, there is no need to cut the clip like you did. You can just bend it straight in case you ever want to go back to stock.

I cut holes in my trunk liner and re-used the stock bmw rubber cap that covers the original shock. The cap actually says BMW on it and looks like it could have come that way from the factory. This allows you to keep your full trunk carpeting with a clean look and still have easy access to the rebound adjustor.

[rzm3]

Yes the swaybar link to shock interface is not quite well designed. The OE shock has a concaved-in interface (1) to match the conical connection of the OE swaybar link. Ideally you'd probably want to make a spacer inbetween the Moton and OE link so that the load can be fully distributed over the entire surface, instead of just the tip of the cone. This causes a stress concentration and deformation of the surface (2), which is why your screw can become loose.



This is also why KW includes 2 customized sway bar links for their kit. It looks a little flimsy though vs. OE... could be the material difference.



What I've done is utilizing the conical washers (from top strut piston) at this interface. The flat side on the shock, and the conical side towards the sway link.

I actually got a set of KW EDC emulator, which included the rubber caps you are talking about.

Do you have the torque specs? Search for a thread that I opened for all relevant torque values.

[RickyBobby]

The part that I was sugessting the loctite for is actually the collar that is
at the bottom of the threaded portion of the shock.
To be honest, I never noticed the beveled tab for the sway bar End link bolt. So the included conical washers fit there??
Maybe that's why they were included in the kit?

[STALKER]

I noticed on the Bimmerworld site they have a set of sway bar links now.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/...t=products.asp

[rzm3]

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

The part that I was sugessting the loctite for is actually the collar that is
at the bottom of the threaded portion of the shock.
To be honest, I never noticed the beveled tab for the sway bar End link bolt. So the included conical washers fit there??
Maybe that's why they were included in the kit?

I see. I will definitely check mine.

The conical washer fits, but of course I have not driven aggressively on the track yet with the Motons.

The washers were originally included to center the struts as the piston diameter is smaller vs. OE guidesupport. But now a pair of sleeves are supplied for centering.

[rzm3]

Originally Posted by STALKER

I noticed on the Bimmerworld site they have a set of sway bar links now.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/...t=products.asp

I see them too now. Not too expensive I guess. May be needed when you drop the car a lot.

I've been reading some stories about KW on E90post. Apparently the original design of the "ears" on the front struts are not strong enough, so there is a member who has H&R swaybars (same geometry as OE) whose front strut ears broke twice. This is because the OE swaybar geometry was only designed for a certain range of suspension travel, so when you change your suspension too much, the swaybar range of motion runs out, which will end up breaking those strut ears that are not strong enough.

This is where modified (adjustable) swaybar links are needed. See picture below

The Moton struts are shorter vs. factory, so the wheel carrier is actually mounted higher, which means that there is already a slight drop due to the strut geometry. This is a good thing as you can maintain the factory swaybar travel with a moderate drop.

[BarryC]

Added the links last week to my car. The OEM links were just barely hitting the arm below the link and so I decided to fix that problem with shorter links.

BC

[STALKER]

Originally Posted by BarryC

Added the links last week to my car. The OEM links were just barely hitting the arm below the link and so I decided to fix that problem with shorter links.

BC

The Bimmerworld links?
How are your rears holding up, I believe you were running the new ones?

[rzm3]

Originally Posted by BarryC

Added the links last week to my car. The OEM links were just barely hitting the arm below the link and so I decided to fix that problem with shorter links.

BC

I was just thinking about that too. I guess the Moton brackets should have been higher up on the strut. I guess I should get this as well...

Did you get your new rear shocks installed?

[RickyBobby]

My shock noise is back with a vengance. The camber plates make it even louder since there is no rubber to isolate the clunking.
It's too bad because the shocks are so nice. These should be taken off the market until they can figure out what is wrong with them!!

[rzm3]

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

My shock noise is back with a vengance. The camber plates make it even louder since there is no rubber to isolate the clunking.
It's too bad because the shocks are so nice. These should be taken off the market until they can figure out what is wrong with them!!

Man sorry to hear that. Last time I talked to Lex, he said that they are quite confused as to why some shocks make noise, some don't. Mine are at Moton right now. I hope that they will figure out a solution soon.

[rzm3]

Update:

I just spoke to Moton and they think they've isolated the cause for the noise. It appears to be air trapped inside the shock that's making the noise.

This appears to be priority #1 for Moton now, as their owner came to the US and experienced the noise in person. They will issue a recall on the shocks when they confirm a solution.

[STALKER]

Originally Posted by rldzhao

Update:

I just spoke to Moton and they think they've isolated the cause for the noise. It appears to be air trapped inside the shock that's making the noise.

This appears to be priority #1 for Moton now, as their owner came to the US and experienced the noise in person. They will issue a recall on the shocks when they confirm a solution.

Thanks for the update.
Good to know they are taking the problem seriously.

[rzm3]

Update: we are looking at mid-Feburary the earliest for the updated shocks to be ready... Sigh...