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08-12-2017, 04:33 PM | #67 |
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I thought 4200 isn't a bad deal for the club sport, but knowing some people here getting it for 3200 from Autozone makes me really jelly...=(
How would you guys compare this to the KW Clubsport? I had the KW on my e46 and it is pretty good, just a bit soft and the adjustment doesn't make that much difference to me. |
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09-15-2017, 08:18 AM | #68 |
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Got them installed today. Left all the Rebound and Compression at 3 to run them in. The ride has firmed up, kind of like leaving the EDC at Sport. The car is firm but not crashy or jumpy. There's more feedback of the road coming though the steering wheel.
This is my first set of new coilovers ever, so all these sensation is new to me.
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09-15-2017, 09:40 AM | #69 | |
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The 3200 price was a mistake in their system, so don't feel bad |
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09-16-2017, 10:36 AM | #70 | |
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2WNRs are fine on the street - I was running them on my F82 M4 for 1.5 years before upgrading to 2WRs. |
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09-18-2017, 07:14 AM | #71 | |
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The JRZs will be sold. |
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10-11-2017, 01:54 AM | #73 |
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Great thread!
But how are you getting GT3 and GT3RS from Porsche??? In Cali, you have to have a VERY good relationship with the dealer to get them at MRSP, and even then, you won't get a GT3 until the end of the production cycle. Forget about an RS. It's unobtainium. .
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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10-11-2017, 08:55 AM | #74 |
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BILSTEIN CLUBSPORT and EDC? Anything else to buy, EDC delete module?
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...lation-module/
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10-11-2017, 09:39 AM | #75 | |
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10-11-2017, 09:41 AM | #76 |
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Cool. Thanks.
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10-11-2017, 11:44 AM | #77 |
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$3500 for Bilstein or $2K for KWs. JRZ $4K......tough call.
I sincerely appreciate this review. My "resource" coordinator may not.
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10-30-2017, 09:37 PM | #78 | |
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Really depends on what you want. The other day a buddy asked me what he should get since he's only driving on the street, and he knew I had Bilstein clubsport. I told him 100% get Ohlins R&T....but if you track a little, and drive mostly on the street, then probably Ohlins R&T with stiffer springs. If you track and want the best track performance, but still able to drive on the street, then 100% Bilstein clubsport. If you have a race-car, Bilstein clubsports are still be a great option. If you only have 2K to spend, you would be crazy to buy KW over Ohlins, but the Bilsteins are worth the stretch. IMO, they are a better value because they can handle full race spring rates, but still offer very civil manners on street. Ohlins offer great manners on street, but can't really handle full-track spring rates and need to be re-valved. By the time you add springs and re-valve, you could have had Bilsteins.
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10-30-2017, 11:23 PM | #79 |
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Just got back from another weekend at NCM. So year-end setup pretty much remains the same. Shocks remain bullet-proof, with outstanding handling, and fade free performance for entire sessions, which is great when wheeling around 3500lbs. Just as before, one click of Comp/Reb was all that was needed to dial the car in from the previous track.
Shocks: Front - C4/R6, Rear - C5/R8 Springs: 600# F, 800# R Camber: -3.2F, -2R Toe: 0 deg toe front, .05 deg rear each side Tires: 265-35-18 F, 265-40-18 R (Trofeo-R's) Swaybars: (hotchkis) F- 2 of 4 (soft middle), R- 3 of 3 (full stiff) I like the car with some chassis rake, and the taller rear tire (although still a square width setup) gives the rear some progressiveness to manage the additional rotation the rake gives you. The car gets into a corner really, really well. Tire wear and temps are virtually identical at all corners, so side to side tire rotating is all that I even do. At this point, the only thing I want is for the car to put power down better. I think a high quality LSD is the final step.
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10-31-2017, 10:14 AM | #80 |
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Good info here, thanks for sharing!
Curious if you added the sway bars after the suspension or at the same time? I have MCS 2WNR's right now on OE sways and tempted to go F/R sways but that means I am lowering the rear subframe and may as well do a number of bushings at the same time if I go that route, turns into a costly project at that point.
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10-31-2017, 10:32 AM | #81 | |
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If you have stock subframe bushings, it's a little easier to get away without installing a rear sway, because the flex in your subframe actually prevents your suspension from doing it's job, effectively increasing rear spring rate. When you add solid subframe bushings, the rear of the car actually becomes more compliant (soft) because now the suspension is able to fully do it's job, so on both my E46 and E92, after installing solid subframe bushings, I needed to stiffen the rear bar just to get the car back to more neutral handling, or where the handling was previously. I have 600/800 springs and run my bars on softer middle front, full stiff rear, on a square tire setup, and my car is by no means loose. It handles how it should be, very neutral. If I had a stock rear bar the car would be shit, IMO, and I would have to try and use other methods to free up the rear of the car. If I went to 900-1000lb rear springs, then maybe I would back down the rear bar, but I like this setup exactly how it is. This lets me have quick adjustability of the rear, at the track, instead of having to swap springs at the rear. It's not cheap, but is worth every penny. Do the bars and solid subframe bushings, along with purple diff bushings.
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04-17-2018, 07:28 PM | #84 |
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F8x?
great thread from Mvez and everyone contributed.
too bad, at least in this bimmerpost, Bilstein Clubsport seems to be not very popular. anyone is using / has use it on the F8x chassis? i'm considering it so would appreciate if u can share ur comments too: 1) spring rates used (std F: 572lbs & R: 800lbs) 2) wheel and tire size used 3) any shock to wheel clearance issue? 4) how low can u go from stock height? 5) track behavior 6) street behavior
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06-01-2018, 12:20 PM | #85 |
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06-04-2018, 07:41 PM | #87 | |
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I am in solid Rogue rear bushings I have to say that i came to almost to the same results: With 900 rear spring, I backed out the Hotchkis to the soft position. So if you are running 800, I am about 12.5% stiffer. Running the Hotchkis on soft 1 of 3 , and you are on last 3 of 3 you are 22.8 stiffer than I am. So roughly speaking about 10% diff. if i get the rear back to the middle hole, we will be roughly same stiffness. My front is on 750 and Hotchkis on second from softest as well. |
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08-28-2018, 12:57 AM | #88 |
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Can you pick your spring rates? I see a set for sale here and the owner said it's too stuff for daily driving.
Was looking for anymore feedback.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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