Track forum general chit chat.

[CorruptCommie]

Bye bye studs, wheel, etc.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Redd

Dogbone, your racerender template is awesome!

What exhaust is that?

with race render you can do all kinds of stuff. I made one to look like Gran Turismo Sport

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by CorruptCommie

Bye bye studs, wheel, etc.

even if you just did 90?

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

My reply would be, did you catch the phone number on the side of the van?
Pm me

i was with wife, "didn't notice" but all guys notice LOL

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

question to you guys.....the torque spec on our wheels are 88 lb/ft (or is it foot pounds?? )

do you guys ever torque to a higher value like 100 for example? On my 5mm at the track, didn't ever need to retorque the wheels. However with 12mm spacers, I had to retorque before every session (some were more loose than I expected), so was wondering if I just go to 100 or 95 or whatever the case may be. I'm on studs and lug nuts if that changes anything.

This only ever happens to us when the studs are about to snap or the hub centric part of the spacer isn't the correct to the center bore-of the wheel

Like if you run titan 7s with a 10mm
You are gonna die lol

[CorruptCommie]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

even if you just did 90?

Costco torqued my BW Race's to 88. Once. I spun it right after, stud twisted like it was butter. I set mine to 75, then only check once throughout the weekend, if that with cold car, cold wheels.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

with race render you can do all kinds of stuff. I made one to look like Gran Turismo Sport

M3Number86 is the king of RaceRender templates!!

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

This only ever happens to us when the studs are about to snap or the hub centric part of the spacer isn't the correct to the center bore-of the wheel

Like if you run titan 7s with a 10mm
You are gonna die lol

Hmmm.....running MH spacer with TE37. I should check I guess haha

But aluminum spacer also expands with heat, unthreading nuts maybe?

It's not the end of the world, until one session I forget to retorque. I'll put another sticker in my car as a reminder.

[roastbeef]

No spacers here. Stay tight all day. Set it and forget it.

[Bimmer Barney]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

question to you guys.....the torque spec on our wheels are 88 lb/ft (or is it foot pounds?? )

do you guys ever torque to a higher value like 100 for example? On my 5mm at the track, didn't ever need to retorque the wheels. However with 12mm spacers, I had to retorque before every session (some were more loose than I expected), so was wondering if I just go to 100 or 95 or whatever the case may be. I'm on studs and lug nuts if that changes anything.

I torque to 90 with no spacers. The extra 2 just makes me feel better?

[M3 Number 86]

there needs to be an 18x10 + 13 wheel to not run spacers lol

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by dogbone

M3Number86 is the king of RaceRender templates!!

hahah thanks they're pretty fun to make. well not a fun process but when it gets done it's pretty cool!

[Bimmer Barney]

So I just read the 7 pager thread on brake cooling. I have OEM brakes with high temp fluid and run DT70 pads. I'm tempted to do a Cantrell style kit. I know I know BBK and quit doing a bandaid solution but a few hundred dollars for some cooling is a lot more palatable than a few thousand and would seem to me that if this isn't enough for my uses, and I upgrade to a BBK later, then the cooling kit would only further enhance the overall setup.

Thoughts?

[slicer]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

there needs to be an 18x10 + 13 wheel to not run spacers lol

There is! BBS E88. I actually have a set with that spec in route. I can get you whatever spec you desire. The problem is that the price is a little higher than the typical Apex wheel. That being said the quality, strength and customization is really nice.

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

So I just read the 7 pager thread on brake cooling. I have OEM brakes with high temp fluid and run DT70 pads. I'm tempted to do a Cantrell style kit. I know I know BBK and quit doing a bandaid solution but a few hundred dollars for some cooling is a lot more palatable than a few thousand and would seem to me that if this isn't enough for my uses, and I upgrade to a BBK later, then the cooling kit would only further enhance the overall setup.

Thoughts?

Some would say the bbk is the bandaid

Rock on

[slicer]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

question to you guys.....the torque spec on our wheels are 88 lb/ft (or is it foot pounds?? )

do you guys ever torque to a higher value like 100 for example? On my 5mm at the track, didn't ever need to retorque the wheels. However with 12mm spacers, I had to retorque before every session (some were more loose than I expected), so was wondering if I just go to 100 or 95 or whatever the case may be. I'm on studs and lug nuts if that changes anything.

I torque to 92 ft lbs to account for the extension that I use with the torque wrench to clear the wheel. You lose some torque when using an extension therefore you should increase your setting to account for that. I also believe that it's a bad idea to re-torque your wheels while they are hot. Metal will expand with heat. You could end up over-torquing your lugs doing that. However, there is the rule of thumb that you should re-torque after driving for 50 miles. I guess I would check after the car cools as much as possible if you are swapping wheels at the track.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

question to you guys.....the torque spec on our wheels are 88 lb/ft (or is it foot pounds?? )

do you guys ever torque to a higher value like 100 for example? On my 5mm at the track, didn't ever need to retorque the wheels. However with 12mm spacers, I had to retorque before every session (some were more loose than I expected), so was wondering if I just go to 100 or 95 or whatever the case may be. I'm on studs and lug nuts if that changes anything.

There's an engineering spec for different size bolts, thread pitches and grade. Grade will indicate material. I believe most studs are class 10.9 which is similar to a grade 8 SAE bolt. According to some charts (and they do vary) 135 ft/lbs is about the range when you start stretching the bolt. You don't want that for wheel studs.

Most importantly you must keep the mating surfaces clean on the hub and wheel. Otherwise you will have issues like vibrations, snapping studs and other stuff.

I torque mine to 80ft/lbs and never had an issue. I blast them on with an 80ft/lb torque stick and then confirm with a torque wrench occasionally. I never recheck them either, never had an issue.

I think somewhere between 80-90 ft/lbs is fine.

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

So I just read the 7 pager thread on brake cooling. I have OEM brakes with high temp fluid and run DT70 pads. I'm tempted to do a Cantrell style kit. I know I know BBK and quit doing a bandaid solution but a few hundred dollars for some cooling is a lot more palatable than a few thousand and would seem to me that if this isn't enough for my uses, and I upgrade to a BBK later, then the cooling kit would only further enhance the overall setup.

Thoughts?

The problem with brake cooling on a street driven car is the hoses will likely get torn up. Otherwise, I think cooling is a good option,

But I can tell you how much fun it is to constantly change pads on the OE calipers...it isn't.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Hey all I'm looking for a busted up DS corner felt piece. Just a scrap piece that someone may have and can part with. Have posted in the WTB threads and in Deansbimmer's thread. Amazing that with all the trays busted and all the metal pans sold no buyer has one lying around. Just need it to mess around with on some brake/cooler ideas.

Any help appreciated

I have one. PM me your address.

[Shmelgy]

Originally Posted by slicer

There is! BBS E88. I actually have a set with that spec in route. I can get you whatever spec you desire. The problem is that the price is a little higher than the typical Apex wheel. That being said the quality, strength and customization is really nice.

A "LITTLE" higher?!?

$2k cash final offer

[slicer]

Originally Posted by Shmelgy

A "LITTLE" higher?!?

$2k cash final offer

Each wheel? Deal!

[Shmelgy]

Originally Posted by slicer

Each wheel? Deal!

Haha you wish

[Visceral]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Some would say the bbk is the bandaid

Rock on

And they'd be FOS.

I've done both, and the BBK was much much more effective and efficient. All of my brake cooling hardware is in pieces and no longer functions after 1 season.