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      02-26-2018, 06:20 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iyzmi View Post
Find a new indy shop, this one doesn't sound like they are very familiar with the S65. Or they're trying to get you to bend over and pay for a 30hr+ main bearing swap.
No worries, I'm not planning on replacing either.
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      02-27-2018, 04:10 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
You're a bit far! But we do have a plant right there so I visit PD every now and then.

Wouldn't be the first time I travel with an entire suitcase full of tools
Yes, your reputation for traveling with a suitcase of tools is renown...like the time you went to Cali Columbia to uhm extricate the truth from a certain enemy of the Drug Lords....or the time you went in to, uhm open a safe because the uhm new owners, uhm forgot the combination...
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      02-27-2018, 10:41 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveskiing View Post
Yes, your reputation for traveling with a suitcase of tools is renown...like the time you went to Cali Columbia to uhm extricate the truth from a certain enemy of the Drug Lords....or the time you went in to, uhm open a safe because the uhm new owners, uhm forgot the combination...
....proper tooling that is....
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      03-04-2018, 01:42 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Mains should always be same material as the rod bearings. There should not be any mixed sets from a factory assembly.

Don't hold your breath for a set of aftermarket mains. We've been told in other threads that main bearings would require significantly more tooling costs as there are four molds instead of two *per size set*, plus the minimum purchase quantity from the factory. That's a major 6 figure investment for not much demand.
I have this on my list of "things to do when I net $100m from powerball". I'll keep you posted.
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      03-13-2018, 08:40 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
If you ever want to do this I'm down to help

We can create a main bearing DIY
I'll take a scoop when you do!
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      03-16-2018, 01:32 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
Or if you want to get really serious, have your crank machined and re-hardened... Yuck.
I am seriously considering this as then you can run stock sized bearings coated or not. Does anyone know what this would run if you were to bring the crank to a machine shop ?
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      03-16-2018, 08:40 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsurge View Post
I am seriously considering this as then you can run stock sized bearings coated or not. Does anyone know what this would run if you were to bring the crank to a machine shop ?
Between 400-700 around here. Most machine shops are not equipped and will farm out the hardening process, or the whole process since hardening affects the final journal diameter. That whole process is a PITA and you're usually without your crank for weeks. Unless your crank journals are on the largest end of the spectrum and your options are limited, usually you can get close enough to ideal by using one of the OEM bearing sizes and WPC treating them. Every engine is different though when we're talking about .0005's

If you open a 70k mile S65 and the mains don't look horrible then replacing them with even the same size would be better than nothing, and getting another 70k out of them. I'd probably just go with whatever you can get with the thinner OEM bearings and save the time and money unless you're in the mood to start over and blueprint the whole engine.
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      03-16-2018, 02:26 PM   #52
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If an RB service costs around 2k, how much will the main bearings add to that?

I have yet to change my rod bearings so i´m curious if it might be worth it to get the mains done aswell.

Yes, i know i´m being paranoid and i shouldn´t worry too much about the mains. Still curious though
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      03-16-2018, 02:32 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris88k View Post
If an RB service costs around 2k, how much will the main bearings add to that?
Not worth it. Main bearings is an engine out service. Adds about $4k to your RB job, if they're competent with the job.
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      03-20-2018, 06:23 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Between 400-700 around here. Most machine shops are not equipped and will farm out the hardening process, or the whole process since hardening affects the final journal diameter. That whole process is a PITA and you're usually without your crank for weeks. Unless your crank journals are on the largest end of the spectrum and your options are limited, usually you can get close enough to ideal by using one of the OEM bearing sizes and WPC treating them. Every engine is different though when we're talking about .0005's

If you open a 70k mile S65 and the mains don't look horrible then replacing them with even the same size would be better than nothing, and getting another 70k out of them. I'd probably just go with whatever you can get with the thinner OEM bearings and save the time and money unless you're in the mood to start over and blueprint the whole engine.

Would you recommend changing out the rods as well while your in there, would you also need to widen the side clearance ?
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      03-20-2018, 08:43 PM   #55
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Just have them checked if you want. You don't need to replace the rods unless you're aiming for more power than a 650 sc kit. Adjusting rod side clearance is getting into full blown blueprinting territory. Shouldn't mess with it unless you really know what you're doing and determine that its needed.
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      05-02-2018, 05:11 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
You're a bit far! But we do have a plant right there so I visit PD every now and then.

Wouldn't be the first time I travel with an entire suitcase full of tools
loveskiing and SYT_Shadow if you're still opening this thread:

I'm about to go pull the oil pan as per SYT_Shadow's DIY that's open in the other window. Bearings are in the mail and due in a few days so I've only been poking at it. Subframe is lowered.

Point is:

loveskiing you're free to use my tools I've needed to buy to do rod bearings. I'm near cooper mountain nature park, FYI.

SYT_Shadow, I've never heard pdx called PD before, but sure, I'll roll with it. Shoot me a PM when you're in town, I owe you a drink.
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      05-02-2018, 06:19 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMachines View Post
loveskiing and SYT_Shadow if you're still opening this thread:

I'm about to go pull the oil pan as per SYT_Shadow's DIY that's open in the other window. Bearings are in the mail and due in a few days so I've only been poking at it. Subframe is lowered.

Point is:

loveskiing you're free to use my tools I've needed to buy to do rod bearings. I'm near cooper mountain nature park, FYI.

SYT_Shadow, I've never heard pdx called PD before, but sure, I'll roll with it. Shoot me a PM when you're in town, I owe you a drink.
definitely!

Pm me if you run into issues and i'll give you my cell to talk through it
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      05-02-2018, 06:53 PM   #58
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SYT_Shadow -> Thanks that's awesome! Just got finished with the 4 bolts from the bell housing. Used a 9mm box end to break it free, then a 10mm ratchet end to back it out. Oh the comradery. Proper wrench now in the mail.

My apologies on the thread derail - albeit a somewhat stale thread. Time to walk the dog.

Wes
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      05-02-2018, 09:46 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMachines View Post
SYT_Shadow -> Thanks that's awesome! Just got finished with the 4 bolts from the bell housing. Used a 9mm box end to break it free, then a 10mm ratchet end to back it out. Oh the comradery. Proper wrench now in the mail.

My apologies on the thread derail - albeit a somewhat stale thread. Time to walk the dog.

Wes
Best box end size (or 12 point socket) I found for those bell housing bolts is a 3/8". Fits nice and tight if you do not have a proper reverse torx. I found that one of the bolts was a PITA and I just used the wrench instead of any sockets.

Happy wrenching!!
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      09-08-2022, 10:42 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Not worth it. Main bearings is an engine out service. Adds about $4k to your RB job, if they're competent with the job.
Dean - I've been reading about your work and your participation on this forum is appreciated.

I wanted to revive this thread because a main bearing failure has me paranoid.

Do you have an updated number of failed mains that you have witnessed? You see a lot of S65s and any insight into how worried I should be would be helpful.

My E90 currently has 105,000 miles and rod bearings were replaced by your shop at 99,000.
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      09-08-2022, 11:10 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishtoenail View Post
Dean - I've been reading about your work and your participation on this forum is appreciated.

I wanted to revive this thread because a main bearing failure has me paranoid.

Do you have an updated number of failed mains that you have witnessed? You see a lot of S65s and any insight into how worried I should be would be helpful.

My E90 currently has 105,000 miles and rod bearings were replaced by your shop at 99,000.
I've diagnosed maybe a couple dozen main failures total through the shop. Who's to say how many main failures out in the wild have been misdiagnosed by others as rods failing. Our shop has done between 700-800 bearing jobs to date and only a few had suffered main failure after bearing service.

This is an old thread...These cars are aging and costs have risen etc. To do mains borders on an engine rebuild and would easily exceed 10k. It's not worth the worry.
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