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07-16-2013, 11:21 PM | #45 |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=_l_EQxDQ27o
Here is a much better break down of this track by Tony Kanaan. You can really see how fast this road coarse is |
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07-17-2013, 07:48 AM | #46 | |
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07-17-2013, 09:11 AM | #47 |
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07-17-2013, 07:32 PM | #48 | |
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I'll be in the gray 4 door with Illinois plates
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mods: track ready stuff
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07-18-2013, 01:19 PM | #49 | |
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Lutfy |
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07-22-2013, 08:26 AM | #50 | ||
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07-22-2013, 08:31 AM | #51 |
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E92/90's need big brake kit to run hard and fast. It's too heavy and you will melt rotors and pads. Cooling ducts will help, but not much. I have gone through rotors and calipers. It's my street car and haven't made the jump to spend the big bucks on a kit. Car needs new rotors and pads after every two day event at VIR and Glen.
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07-22-2013, 07:14 PM | #53 | |
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My god, I must drive like a granny. I get ~10 track days out of a front set of pagid yellows, got 25 days out of my first set of front rotors, and 12 days out of a set of NT-01's. Do the Glen in 2:17 and VIR in about the same time and yeah, I could go faster, just have to work up to it.
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07-26-2013, 10:49 AM | #55 | |
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What I do not understand is how can you use MDM with a square set up. When I push hard with MDM at WGI, even with Euro MDM, it kicks in too much - cuts throttle in S-es, stops desirable rotation in toe and that of-camber left-hander that I always screw up, plus it burns through brake pads like crazy, particularly inside rear and outside front... It's just a bit frustrating to run MDM at WGI when driving fast, particularly with times like that. I'd rather just leave more safety margin. I'm pretty sure it's even worse with square set up because tire proportions are off. Or does it behave better with sleeks? |
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07-30-2013, 03:15 PM | #56 | ||
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07-30-2013, 03:35 PM | #57 |
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Lap times are fun but not most important. What is important is to have fun and come home safe. Seat time, humility, and training will bring speed. I suggest hiring private coaching for next event. You can spend all you want on the car and never gain anything. Two sessions with a pro instructor and I promise you lap times will drop. Will be the best money you ever spend. There is always a faster guy, why not learn from them??!!!!
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08-02-2013, 10:40 AM | #58 | |
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Time for a custom 2 piece heat treated no drama (slots or drills) blank rotors for the stock calipers from Coleman Racing. Cheaper than PF Direct Drive. I ran that setup on my STi and it cured all issues of rotor cracking (these are heat treated). Its the freaking cross drill which acts like cheese graters eating up the pads too. I ran cross drilled ONCE on my E36 and went through a set of pads in one weekend. Also the car needs bigger tires (I cannot put the power down enough) so will upgrade to 295s with 10inch wide wheels or go big with 11 inch wheels and 305s (275 with 10inch up front). Need solution for brakes. If that does not work, then Stoptech ST60 it is. Lutfy |
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08-02-2013, 10:44 PM | #59 | |
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Drives: 11 E90 M3 Individual
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Rethink taking a late apex on turns at some point because that's what really beats up your brakes. Yes, you can be fast with a late apex but you are really relying on the front tires to do all of the turning. You can really drive the car with lots of slip and some slide and an earlier turn in. The E9X M3 loves to be steered with the rear wheels and the throttle. Make sure you are comfortable sliding the car and are smooth on all of the controls first before doing this. But if you think about it...the less brake you use...the faster you go. Its all about managing the grip. Then you'll have to deal with a large tire bill instead of a large brake bill Also think about lengthening your braking zones using less pressure. This will be a little easier on the brakes and balances the car better at turn in. Most E9X M3 drivers throw out the boat anchor and don't have a lot of grip on the rear axle when turning in...which is precisely the time you DO want grip on the rear axle. Less weight transfer = more overall grip.
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