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06-05-2018, 12:34 PM | #45 | |
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Yes, thanks, I read that, and it reminded me of the posts in this thread from the user who I think also points to the same bolt in the back as the solution to the removal problem. I look forward to seeing what happens.... |
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06-05-2018, 01:10 PM | #46 | |
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=740121 Here is a pic of the "sliding nut" that "locks" the alternator in place and needs to be tapped out... |
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06-05-2018, 01:23 PM | #47 | ||
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06-06-2018, 07:20 AM | #48 | |
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10-13-2018, 09:51 PM | #49 |
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The two alternator-to-mounting bracket bolts are M10, silver colored (8.8 ZNS),and require a torque spec of 38NM (28 ft lb). If for some reason your car has yellow (ZN) bolts that have 8.8 on the head (may be possible if you have an aftermarket alternator that came with new ZN bolts) the torque spec would be higher at 47NM (35 ft lb).
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Last edited by Theodore; 10-14-2018 at 08:14 AM.. |
01-03-2019, 06:30 AM | #50 |
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Controller/regulator
Often its the controller/regulator that goes on the blink and needs changing. BMW don't sell this for anything reasonable but any valeo dealer can get you the regulator.
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01-03-2019, 05:06 PM | #52 |
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That's what I did, I just straight out replaced the entire alternator. That's the only way I got rid of that Alternator Communication error
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02-27-2019, 09:15 AM | #53 | |
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Thanks for taking the time to add the updates, they were really useful for me today getting the damn thing removed. |
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07-23-2019, 10:39 PM | #54 |
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I just finished my alternator replacement. A couple things to add:
Use a long 14mm angled close ended wrench for the belt tensioner and start around the 3 o'clock position and push down. That moved the tensioner much easier than trying from 12 o'clock to 3. Lining up the bolts with the new alternator was a huge PITA. I used a thick screw driver to get the bottom lined up (moved around which trying to pass through the bolt holes). That helped me stabilize it a bit and I screwed in the top one first then removed screwdriver and screw in bottom bolt. Lastly when trying to remove the alternator it does not have a bushing like stated above. It has machined edge on the inside and it's just a tight fitting alternator. Best option for me was to use a pry bar between the engine block and the alternator, while wiggling alternator with one hand slightly pry with the other. I didn't need alot of force which was good so I didn't break anything. |
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11-26-2019, 03:34 AM | #55 | |
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Just seems impossible on a 10 year old brittle car to be bending hoses and fittings and not expect them to snap off. seriously.
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11-26-2019, 08:53 AM | #56 |
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It does come out but you have to disconnect the bolt holding a pipe to the fan shroud and disconnect the clipped in hoses. You also have to wiggle and tilt. And you have to unclog and hold the small reservoir hose to a position forward of the shroud and hold the upper hose to the side. Since it is a bit tricky, I can see how there could be problems.
My car is a 2008 with just over 100k miles and I have had the fan out half a dozen times. It is never fun and I always worry about breaking that small nipple. I will likely replace the cooling system hoses in the next year. 10 years is a fair lifetime. |
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11-27-2019, 03:35 AM | #57 | |
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The new alternator is installed. There were a few issues, I'll try to list the major ones. 1) do not break off the bleeder valve nipple on the upper radiator hose if you remove the fan assembly. It requires you to bend it and it will snap very easily if you have an older car (done that, new hoses on order) 1a) do not break off any of the fan shroud clips, they are brittle from years of heat and snap if you touch them. I broke one. 2) use cardboard to protect the radiator once you have the fan out as you will be slamming all kinds of tools around near it. 3) getting the old alternator off -- The bottom bolt does truly need to be backed off about 1/4 inch and then hit with a hammer to knock the rear captive nut back just enough to make it clear then rock like hell and it, remove the rest of the bolt and it will come out if you paid your dues. This part took me nearly an hour to figure out even though I knew the tricks. 4) --- this was the worst part for me --- the 14mm box wrench needed on the belt tensioner bolt continued to slip off. any 14mm Box wrench is pretty short, so the box wrench I had was barely enough even with a rag wrapped around it because it was cutting my hand with the force required to move the tensioner. A socket wont work because it hits a metal pipe right in front of the bolt as the tensioner travels you will hit the pipe and cant get full travel. You will need every last inch. A box wrench is the only way. Maybe they make a 12 inch long 14mm box wrench, that would be cool. I was considering cutting a piece of pipe to extend the box wrench to get more leverage. 5) While using said inadequate short 14mm box wrench on said belt tensioner, be very careful putting the belt back on. I ended up busting a finger pretty seriously because the wrench slipped pinning my finger between the belt and the alternator pulley. I had to dig out the box wrench from the bottom of the chassis and tension the pulley to get my finger back from under the belt. You've been warned. It's not pretty. 6) the new bottom bolt will go in with some persuasion make sure it's lined up and give it a smack and then start threading into the rear nut. If I forgot anything please feel free to correct me. Also you may all be interested in this: The alternator (Vaelo BMW original 2009) that I removed had a very obvious failure, and actually appears to be an easy fix. There is a plastic cap on the voltage regulator which contains two brushes which ride on the commutator. In my case, and seems to be a very common issue, the brushes were totally shot to the point they were no longer protruding from the plastic housing and were unable to make contact with the copper on the commutator. They were in fact stuck in place from built up carbon dust and worn down. Also the commutator was completely gummed up with this graphite grease/powder from them wearing. Bottom line -- it was no longer making any connection so the regulator said "Screw this peace out I'm done I don't know what to do" and stopped working. I do not see any reason that you could not clean up the commutator and replace the brushes and get another 10 years out of this alternator. I will be doing so even though I replaced it with a new alternator. I've seen the repair for 7 bucks you can get brushes and solder them in if you have decent repair skills and can work a soldering iron. I just thought I'd let you all know of the root cause of the failure and that it appears to be easily fixed, or for a few bucks more just buy the whole regulator assembly. Due to the 10 year age I decided to buy the whole alternator since it was a deal at $250-$280
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Last edited by TX; 11-27-2019 at 04:00 AM.. |
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11-27-2019, 05:42 AM | #58 |
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There is a guy in the past 6 months who bought a regulator for about half the price of a new alternator, but it did not fix the problem. I can’t recall whether he identified another issue, but he ended up buying a new alternator as well. Trying the brush change would be worthwhile to some since it is much less than a regulator, but if it does not work, you are doing the job over again. At 10 years, I am OK with buying new parts.
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02-24-2020, 05:46 PM | #59 | ||
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If you don't happen the lower bolt, get yourself a can of WD40 with the flexible tip. It will become a life saver and will really help getting the alternator out. It really took me like a day and a half (5-10 minute intervals) to take it out so made the job harder than it needed to be. Also, I highly recommend you get a serpentine belt tool. You can get a loner from autozone or advance for free. It will help to move the tensioner without damaging the bolt, which I damaged a little bit by using a regular ratchet and 14mm socket. |
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02-27-2020, 08:35 AM | #60 |
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Bumping this thread. I just did my alternator and a HUGE thank you to everyone on this forum for the advice, pictures and the great DIY. Some things to add that I found helpful:
1. When removing the bolts on the alternator, remove the bottom bolt first and spray a little PB Blaster using the little red straw into the bottom bolt hole so that it reaches the circular sliding section on the other side of the nut. Let it sit for ten min or so and reinsert the bolt and turn it by hand about 4 times until its snug into the sliding bolt. GENTLY tap the head of the bolt with a small sledge hammer until the alternator pivots fully on the top bolt when you remove the bottom bolt. Remove top bolt and use a large flat head screwdriver to gently push the alternator out of it's mounting bracket and it will easily slide out. Pull the alternator out with the pulley facing up after unplugging the cable and lift it out. 2. When reinstalling the alternator, sand the 17mm nut lightly so that it is shiny and clean. Lower the new alternator into place like it was removed with the pulley facing up. Reinstall the B+ cable and plug before getting the alternator in place and reinserting the bottom bolt, tightening it enough so that the alternator can pivot now from the bottom bolt. 3. Be sure to check the individual hydraulic tensioners, (these are common failures on higher mileage E90/92/93 M3s) and inspect each pulley for any play, noise or wear if you choose not to replace them. 4. GO SLOW and be patient. This is a DIY with very little space to work, old coolant lines and plastic brackets along with your radiator. Use proper lifting techniques, have patience and this job is easy. It took me a little under two hours from start to finish. I hope this helps anyone doing this DIY and thank you ALL again for the awesome thread. |
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05-29-2020, 07:11 PM | #61 |
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Ok so I just had the same problem with my e93 M3 and decided to take on the project myself to save some extra bucks to put towards Mods....Big shoutout to all of you guys for sharing the replacement instructions (I truly luv my M community lol).....With all that said, I want to share a major tip that will make this process soooooo much easier in how to get the alternator out once the screws are removed and the wire in the back is unclipped (not the negative - black wire) ......if your old alternator was like mine, that joint would not budge no matter how much I rocked it up and down and rugged on it.....the trick that I used was to take a small conventional hammer and wedge the teeth ( backside of hammer) into the the vent side ( the part off the alternator where you can see the copper wire windings) of the alternator and lay the head of the hammer up against the engine block (specifically on the round hump where the Tension pulley (idler arm) sits....once I got the hammer into place I stood on the driver side of the car and pushed the hammer handle towards the passenger side, and pop went the Alternator out of its place........sidebar I did spray a bit of WD-40 in between where the front of the Alternator and the Engine block meets (thats the spot on the alternator where you have to feel for the screw on the bottom because you can’t physically see it ....the long screw side) ...........I hope this is of great help to you guys, any questions just hit me up , I’m always down to help out... Stay Blessed! peace ✌️
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07-28-2020, 11:35 AM | #62 |
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I will be giving this a shot this weekend
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07-31-2020, 02:18 AM | #63 |
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Just did my alternator a couple days ago, the fan can be a little tricky to get out but if you take your time it will come out easily without breaking any clips. The alternator was a bit more finicky but after a bit of wiggling back and forth and side to side I was able to get mine out. Putting in the replacement was a breeze as was getting the fan back in with no broken clips or tabs.
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08-04-2020, 01:09 PM | #64 |
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08-04-2020, 07:17 PM | #65 |
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Yep, it was SUPER easy. Took off the top bolt backed out the bottom about an inch and a half and taped it back in and the unit literally fell out. SO easy! the bad thing is my footwell module failed when I hooked the battery back up. But yes tap it back and IT COMES RIGHT OUT
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