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12-17-2016, 01:20 PM | #45 | |
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I have a big preference for doing as little as possible. I feel with every fastener you touch you increase the probability of forgetting something, etc. With a lift, I'd do it like this. On jackstands I would remove everything because it's so cramped As this oil pan gasket does not have any rtv, I felt it was pretty easy to leave things hanging as you see here. In the E46, I used rtv and then was under pressure to reinstall quickly due to that Apparently the job can be done without removing the fan, so you can be sure next time I won't remove that either! |
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12-17-2016, 03:27 PM | #47 |
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Care to share how you did it without removing the fan?
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12-17-2016, 05:30 PM | #48 |
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12-18-2016, 05:07 PM | #49 | |
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12-18-2016, 05:10 PM | #50 |
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I just didn't remove it. No secret to that. Not sure what you're getting at to be honest.
You can still get to the pulley nut no problem.
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12-19-2016, 12:05 AM | #51 |
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Oh I see.... Do you access the belt tensioner from above or below with the fan in place? Can one person put the belt back on?
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12-19-2016, 10:52 AM | #52 |
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World class DIY. Thank you so much!!
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12-19-2016, 10:09 PM | #53 |
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Below. Easy peasy for one person to take belt off and put it back on.
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01-05-2017, 03:58 PM | #54 |
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Absolutely fantastic. Hats off to SYT_Shadow. I could never even attempt this DIY, mainly due to stroke. Makes you realize the importance of finding a good Indy shop with a mechanic that is going to take the time and care to do this right.
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01-05-2017, 05:21 PM | #55 |
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Any chance you guys can give me a hand with my car? I am in NJ not too far from you guys. I will also provide you with food. Pm me if you could do it with how much you are willing to do it for.
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01-05-2017, 05:23 PM | #56 |
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Yes, you don't want someone crossthreading a bolt and just ramming it in anyway and hope it'll hold...
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01-05-2017, 05:27 PM | #57 |
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Stroke a typo? If not it is awesome that you are still with us!!!
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01-05-2017, 05:28 PM | #58 |
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PM sent. We will begin doing this for members in the area on a case by case basis.
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01-12-2017, 12:50 PM | #60 |
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Great DIY, I just completed this job over the weekend and used this thread as my primary guide, thanks!
Minor suggestions for the DIY: 1. Add in the necessity of a 12mm "Double Hex" (aka Bi-Hex or Bi-Hexagon) socket for the OEM rod bolt removal. 2. Add in the necessity of an E12 specific wrench for the transmission to oil pan bolts. 3. To lower the sub-frame, remove 6 sub-frame bolts, add in "plus the 2 nuts for the engine mounts." Extra tips and time savers: 1. Use a piece of piece of thick tape, placed on the steering column across the joint, and then use a box cutter to slice the tape right at the joint. The 3 dimensional marker works great and makes lining things up afterwards super easy. To get the box cutter into the tight space, remove this plastic Servotronic wiring harness holder found on the driver's side of the car. It has a phillips head screw. Use a mini ratchet and bit set (like this one here) to remove it. A typical stubby screw driver isn't short enough to fit in that tight space: 2. To create more of a production line type efficiency, consider buying 3 inexpensive 3/8" 12 point sockets for the ARP bolt install and a cheap torque wrench for an initial 30 ft lb of torque and a better torque wrench for the final 50 ft lb of torque tightening. A 3rd socket connected to a 3/8" drive extension with a rough gripping surface to allow quickly threading on the rod bolts most of the way. 3. Ratcheting box end wrenches are very nice time savers and buying off-brand, single pieces specific to this job do not add that much to the overall cost. A 16mm ratcheting wrench like this one for the engine mounts, an E12 specific ratcheting wrench for the transmission to oil pan bolts and a 10mm ratcheting wrench for the front oil pan to A/C lines bracket removal. 4. Use an underhoist stand while working with a lift helps ease the sub-frame upwards to guide the steering column into alignment 1/4" at a time. A floor jack if you working with the car on jack stands should have the same effect. 5. Using the hanging sub-frame approach, replace the rear most engine bearings first before the front engine bearings. Starting at the rear of the engine gives you the most room to work with as you refine your bearing removal/replacement technique. 6. If you have trouble pulling a rod back down on to the crank after installing the new bearing, re-thread one of the original rod bolts 7 to 10 threads deep by hand into whichever side of the rod is most accessible and then pull the rod (by the bolt) back down towards you. Next time I do this job I plan to: 1. Buy or borrow a bolt stretch gauge, measure and record the specs on each bolt I install so that I can check them if I ever remove them in the future and reuse them. 2. Measure the clearance of each bearing with plastigauge and document each one as described in this thread here in order to qualify for the BE Bearings warranty. 3. Remove one extra bolt on the "front of the oil pan/AC lines bracket" from the A/C lines themselves and get that thing completely out of the way. The bracket kept getting in the way of the oil pan re-installation. 4. Organize all of the bolts better. The 3 magnetic dishes (in addition to the cardboard for the oil pan) were overflowing and didn't offer enough real estate to keep things neatly organized. 5. Purchase a 4 inch T30 torx in addition to the required 6 inch T30 torx to make the job easier. The 6 inch tool was almost too long for some of the the oil pan bolts as the 6 inch tool handle was nearly touching the hanging sub-frame for some bolts leaving very little room for my hand to turn it. 6. Consider dropping the sub-frame entirely. Standing over 6 feet tall, I found myself crouching down under the sub-frame constantly, where I probably wouldn't have had to do much if any crouching had I removed the sub-frame (while using a standard shop lift). Last edited by Theodore; 04-01-2017 at 08:35 PM.. |
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01-17-2017, 11:42 AM | #61 |
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Excellent Write up and major props for DIY!!!
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01-17-2017, 03:15 PM | #62 | |
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Thanks again to SYT_Shadow for the full DIY and best of luck to others who take this job on.
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01-17-2017, 03:46 PM | #63 | |
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01-17-2017, 11:50 PM | #64 |
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Good additions to the DIY, Theodore!
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01-19-2017, 09:50 AM | #65 | |
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Great points and very helpful tips!
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I also don't believe it is possible to measure in an S65 without the rod removed from the block even if the rods allowed for it as they sit too far into the block unlike others which protrude below the block at BDC.
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01-19-2017, 09:54 AM | #66 | |
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In my case, I am happy doing this job with a good torque wrench. The biggest question when you use torque is whether oil is on the threads, but as ARP gives you their own lube it's quite consistent. |
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