DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

[drwankel]

I still dont understand why nobody has made a version that sends the audio through USB instead of AUX. Would solve so much of this mess.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by drwankel

I still dont understand why nobody has made a version that sends the audio through USB instead of AUX. Would solve so much of this mess.

Even the BMW factory cables were using aux for audio and USB for power/data. I think someone mentioned this changed for combox units that would do audio directly over USB but USB is a connection interface not an audio interface. So unless they were able to emulate an Apple device that could specifically enumerate and spoof audio that wouldn't work, at least not easily.

The CIC is a tech platform that started development in ~2006, it's hard to get as modern level of integration with something that's 15 years old.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Even the BMW factory cables were using aux for audio and USB for power/data. I think someone mentioned this changed for combox units that would do audio directly over USB but USB is a connection interface not an audio interface. So unless they were able to emulate an Apple device that could specifically enumerate and spoof audio that wouldn't work, at least not easily.

The CIC is a tech platform that started development in ~2006, it's hard to get as modern level of integration with something that's 15 years old.

This changed in later years. You can do audio directly over USB, no AUX required, which means its digital all the way to the head unit. You can also use a USB storage device and load it with media and play off of that.

Basically you just need something that outputs sound into an endless wav file. I dont think its impossible.

[blk33]

Originally Posted by SocalM3

Like some of you, I was disappointed to receive the new Carsara unit because it does not come with the Quadlock connector to allow for direct use of the aux input into the HU.

I happened to have another used CIC headunit for my e60 CIC retrofit project. It came with a Quadlock connector attached with some cut wires. I managed to remove 3 with intact pins from the Quadlock. This was not so easy even after removing the blue locking tabs because I had to figure out how to release the pins by using a small tool to push down the metal tabs. It would be much easier if you can find wires with those pins already attached.

I soldered the 3 wires to a 3.5mm aux input. I then went to the car and inserted the 3 wires with the pins into the Quadlock. I used the pin out as in the attached diagram:

30 AUX In Left
35 AUX In Right
36 AUX In GND

After coding the HU to use the Quadlock aux input, I was able to allow audio from the new Carsara to feed directly through the Quadlock connector! I cannot say if the sound is much better because I did not listen to music for long enough using the aux input in the center console to make a good comparison.

I hope this helps you guys. If you need any help with this, feel free to ask! Good luck!

Nice job!
I figured this was the way to go, but I don't have a quadlock connector and cable.
I ran the new mic cable up to the roof lining, I also think you could tap the mic into the quadlock connector as well. Might have to disable the std mic.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/400080...0Q90.jpg_.webp
Maybe I could get one of these extension cables?

Have you had any success with disabling the BMW voice when you press the button on the steering wheel to activate voice command for SIRI, the command goes to BOTH SIRI and to the BMW system.
A short push activates the BMW system, a long push activates SIRI and the BMW system. Is it possible to code out BMW Voice Command?

I end up with the BMW voice talking to SIRI!

[SocalM3]

Originally Posted by blk33

Nice job!
I figured this was the way to go, but I don't have a quadlock connector and cable.
I ran the new mic cable up to the roof lining, I also think you could tap the mic into the quadlock connector as well. Might have to disable the std mic.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/400080...0Q90.jpg_.webp
Maybe I could get one of these extension cables?

Have you had any success with disabling the BMW voice when you press the button on the steering wheel to activate voice command for SIRI, the command goes to BOTH SIRI and to the BMW system.
A short push activates the BMW system, a long push activates SIRI and the BMW system. Is it possible to code out BMW Voice Command?

I end up with the BMW voice talking to SIRI!

Thanks! Blk33. I think you are right in that we can directly tap the microphone input in the quadlock but most likely we will have to figure out the codes for that.

I have the same issue as you regarding the steering wheel voice button. I tried to find a solution but have not found a definite answer. I read somewhere you can try to remove the voice control ($620) from the vehicle order (VO) in CAS and FRM and then restore the CIC to default but not sure if that would work. Please let us know if you find out anything.

[Iyzmi]

Skimming through this thread now and boy am I glad I got my Carsara last year before they screwed it up.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by SocalM3

I soldered the 3 wires to a 3.5mm aux input. I then went to the car and inserted the 3 wires with the pins into the Quadlock. I used the pin out as in the attached diagram:

30 AUX In Left
35 AUX In Right
36 AUX In GND

Awesome work, this is great info, thanks for sharing!

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

Skimming through this thread now and boy am I glad I got my Carsara last year before they screwed it up.

+1

Not sure why carsara went the same route as Kremersino by eliminating the quad lock.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by drwankel

This changed in later years. You can do audio directly over USB, no AUX required, which means its digital all the way to the head unit. You can also use a USB storage device and load it with media and play off of that.

Basically you just need something that outputs sound into an endless wav file. I dont think its impossible.

Not to over nerd this, but technically you're still enumerating the USB device either as USB storage (the CIC then mounts that file system and plays it like it does from the internal hard drive) or as an iPod Accessory Protocol device which is a proprietary and signed interface you need an agreement with Apple to use (if you've ever bought a knockoff Iphone cable years ago you'll remember why).

If the car was built with some kind of standard digital input/optical/etc then it'd be a lot easier to hijack, but the interface just doesn't exist because everything is internal to the CIC.

A 3.5mm cable is plenty capable of transferring high-quality audio assuming:
-The actual cabling is of sufficient quality (I wouldn't be surprised if re-pinning the audio cables with a higher quality wire yielded slightly better results than the cheap Chinese harness so many people have issues with).
-The chipset outputting the audio is doing a good enough job with enough voltage/preamp. A number of us tested using a portable preamp before sending the signal into the system and it DID help the audio quality via 3.5mm jack, but as soon as the preamp was powered over USB it led to too much electrical noise because of the charging circuit, and the quality over quadlock is good enough for daily purposes.

I continue to remind people how noisy these cars are compared to any modern luxury car and fighting for quieter tires would make a bigger difference to your listening experience.

[SocalM3]

Originally Posted by bighindu79

+1

Not sure why carsara went the same route as Kremersino by eliminating the quad lock.

Eliminating the Quadlock probably cuts down the cost of manufacturing by a bit given that there are less wires and connectors involved. This also frees up some room behind the HU.

[2009550iMSport]

Hey guys! I’ve been following this thread for a while and have gained some great tips on these Carsara boxes! Especially about the coding for quadlok aux in!

I have a 2009 E60 550i with CIC + combox retrofitted. I also have individual audio retrofitted. I bought the carsara CarPlay box a few months ago from this vendor: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPEJF6F

I know a lot of you have had issues with sketchy vendors so I just wanted to give this one a shout-out and say that I HIGHLY recommend this vendor. He gave me great troubleshooting help (before I found this thread, obviously &#128521 and was able to get everything working for me.

A few tips:

1. If when you get it all hooked up and you get a red screen or you get an unresponsive controller, your LVDS cables are probably hooked up wrong. This happened to me. My iDrive controller was unresponsive so I got to thinking, maybe I have the video cables hooked up incorrectly. What made me think of this was because if I held down the menu button for 3 seconds, I regained control over the iDrive controller! If I held it down for another 3 seconds, it became unresponsive again! So there’s obviously something amiss. As it turns out, I had the LVDS cabling wrong. The cables look identical but they are NOT. The orientation of the pins is different on each cable end, therefore they will only operate correctly if they plugged in a certain way. If you have screen issues, check this.

2. My next tip has to do with coding the CIC after you have it all connected. As many have mentioned, you cannot communicate with the CIC with the carsara box installed. This is due to how it interfaces with the CAN line. BUT there is a workaround without having to remove the whole CarPlay box just to code your CIC! Remember that little 4 pin jumper that came with the kit? Well, that is actually dual purpose. What you do is unplug the A connection (of the connectors A,B,C,D) and plug that jumper in. This basically closes off the K-CAN connection that was coming from the CIC head unit and makes it so you can code the CIC without uninstalling the whole system! Now, be full-warned, your CIC screen will go red during this time. This is due to the canbus connection being severed from the carsara box. But your CIC is still fully functional underneath and is ready for you to code it. When you’re done, simply take off the jumper and reconnect the A connector to whichever connector it was hooked up to before. This is so much more convenient than having to take out the head unit and disconnect everything just to be able to code CIC. I actually made a couple of extension cables and ran that carsara canbus line all the way down to underneath my gear shifter assembly. Now if I want to code CIC, I just pop the cover off the gear shifter boot (I have the SAT transmission) and connect the jumper instead of having to remove the CIC screen every time. So much easier and I don’t run the risk of scratching my brushed aluminum trim with the CIC screen.

3. For the folks with combox, you can still connect your phone to your car’s Bluetooth audio and have CarPlay running at the same time. This produces better audio quality as it eliminates audio from having to move through the carsara box and stays all digital. The only downside to this is any audio coming from the carsara box, such as navigation directions, will not be heard. But to be honest, I hardly ever use turn-by-turn nav and that’s really the only time this connection source has its downsides. The quadlok audio sounds like sh** with individual audio.

Which brings me to my questions for you all:

Is anyone else just disappointed in the audio quality via the quadlok connection? I’m not really having an issue with the static in the background, although that is noticeable at higher volumes. The issue I’m having is that the amount of treble coming through. I listen to my music pretty loud, but that is basically out of the question with the quadlok aux connection. Everything sounds so shrill! It’s driving me nuts. I also haven’t really gotten the knack of the EQ settings for individual audio, as I just retrofitted that last week. I like it but I am having issues getting it tuned to my liking.

Has anyone attempted running a ground loop isolator in between the 3.5mm connection and the OEM aux input to clean up the sound a bit? I’m thinking of giving this a try because right now this just isn’t acceptable. I had to use one of these with the BMW iPod Y cable back when I had a MULF instead of a combox. God, I really don’t miss that setup. But the sound quality was far superior to this crap. It was even better than Bluetooth audio! I’m just about to go insane with this trying to get the sound to my liking. I see some of you saying “well live with it” and this and that, but that’s not good enough for me. Sorry! I spend an unholy amount of money on my cars to get them to my liking, this one included. My tunes are a very high priority to me, and I like to have them LOUD. So I’ll keep trying to find a solution because it shouldn’t be this difficult to have clear audio.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by 2009550iMSport

Hey guys! I’ve been following this thread for a while and have gained some great tips on these Carsara boxes! Especially about the coding for quadlok aux in!

I have a 2009 E60 550i with CIC + combox retrofitted. I also have individual audio retrofitted. I bought the carsara CarPlay box a few months ago from this vendor: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPEJF6F

I know a lot of you have had issues with sketchy vendors so I just wanted to give this one a shout-out and say that I HIGHLY recommend this vendor. He gave me great troubleshooting help (before I found this thread, obviously &#128521 and was able to get everything working for me.

A few tips:

1. If when you get it all hooked up and you get a red screen or you get an unresponsive controller, your LVDS cables are probably hooked up wrong. This happened to me. My iDrive controller was unresponsive so I got to thinking, maybe I have the video cables hooked up incorrectly. What made me think of this was because if I held down the menu button for 3 seconds, I regained control over the iDrive controller! If I held it down for another 3 seconds, it became unresponsive again! So there’s obviously something amiss. As it turns out, I had the LVDS cabling wrong. The cables look identical but they are NOT. The orientation of the pins is different on each cable end, therefore they will only operate correctly if they plugged in a certain way. If you have screen issues, check this.

2. My next tip has to do with coding the CIC after you have it all connected. As many have mentioned, you cannot communicate with the CIC with the carsara box installed. This is due to how it interfaces with the CAN line. BUT there is a workaround without having to remove the whole CarPlay box just to code your CIC! Remember that little 4 pin jumper that came with the kit? Well, that is actually dual purpose. What you do is unplug the A connection (of the connectors A,B,C,D) and plug that jumper in. This basically closes off the K-CAN connection that was coming from the CIC head unit and makes it so you can code the CIC without uninstalling the whole system! Now, be full-warned, your CIC screen will go red during this time. This is due to the canbus connection being severed from the carsara box. But your CIC is still fully functional underneath and is ready for you to code it. When you’re done, simply take off the jumper and reconnect the A connector to whichever connector it was hooked up to before. This is so much more convenient than having to take out the head unit and disconnect everything just to be able to code CIC. I actually made a couple of extension cables and ran that carsara canbus line all the way down to underneath my gear shifter assembly. Now if I want to code CIC, I just pop the cover off the gear shifter boot (I have the SAT transmission) and connect the jumper instead of having to remove the CIC screen every time. So much easier and I don’t run the risk of scratching my brushed aluminum trim with the CIC screen.

3. For the folks with combox, you can still connect your phone to your car’s Bluetooth audio and have CarPlay running at the same time. This produces better audio quality as it eliminates audio from having to move through the carsara box and stays all digital. The only downside to this is any audio coming from the carsara box, such as navigation directions, will not be heard. But to be honest, I hardly ever use turn-by-turn nav and that’s really the only time this connection source has its downsides. The quadlok audio sounds like sh** with individual audio.

Which brings me to my questions for you all:

Is anyone else just disappointed in the audio quality via the quadlok connection? I’m not really having an issue with the static in the background, although that is noticeable at higher volumes. The issue I’m having is that the amount of treble coming through. I listen to my music pretty loud, but that is basically out of the question with the quadlok aux connection. Everything sounds so shrill! It’s driving me nuts. I also haven’t really gotten the knack of the EQ settings for individual audio, as I just retrofitted that last week. I like it but I am having issues getting it tuned to my liking.

Has anyone attempted running a ground loop isolator in between the 3.5mm connection and the OEM aux input to clean up the sound a bit? I’m thinking of giving this a try because right now this just isn’t acceptable. I had to use one of these with the BMW iPod Y cable back when I had a MULF instead of a combox. God, I really don’t miss that setup. But the sound quality was far superior to this crap. It was even better than Bluetooth audio! I’m just about to go insane with this trying to get the sound to my liking. I see some of you saying “well live with it” and this and that, but that’s not good enough for me. Sorry! I spend an unholy amount of money on my cars to get them to my liking, this one included. My tunes are a very high priority to me, and I like to have them LOUD. So I’ll keep trying to find a solution because it shouldn’t be this difficult to have clear audio.

If you are happy with the Combox setting and don't care about the external audio for nav that's going to be the best solution for audio.

Tuning two EQ's makes the solution complex to manage and takes a lot of time to play with. I also found that tuning it when the car isn't on isn't entirely useful because once you factor in engine and road noise you probably will want to boost certain frequencies to cut through better.

To answer your question, yes some people are disappointed, but a lot of people commenting haven't actually purchased the unit. If you're unhappy with the tradeoffs I think the Combox approach is the best solution, you get the visual UI from Apple and digital audio.

[Iyzmi]

I am no audiophile, but the sound quality I get via quadlock is actually great IMO. If you told me it came stock this way I would probably believe you. I have the CIC EQ set to Malek's Individual Audio settings and did have to mess around with the Carsara EQ quite a bit, but overall zero complaints with this entire system. It actually works better than our Mazda with factory CarPlay.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I am no audiophile, but the sound quality I get via quadlock is actually great IMO. If you told me it came stock this way I would probably believe you. I have the CIC EQ set to Malek's Individual Audio settings and did have to mess around with the Carsara EQ quite a bit, but overall zero complaints with this entire system. It actually works better than our Mazda with factory CarPlay.

Similar boat. My brand new G05 I mostly listen to XM radio which sounds way worse than high-quality Spotify over AUX on the M3.

I found Malek's settings way too treble-heavy for what I listen to. But I also pointed out that everyone has different years and people who are older will likely prefer treble-heavy because that's the first part of your hearing to go and a young person will go "WTF" (like previously posted).

[ShindigsTX]

Originally Posted by blk33

When I use the button on the steering wheel to activate voice command for SIRI, the command goes to BOTH the iphone and to the BMW system.
A short push activates the BMW system, a long push activates SIRI and the BMW system. Is it possible to code out BMW Voice Command?

Has anyone come across this issue, and resolved it?

I just installed a Bimmer-tech unit in my 2012 CIC E92 M3 today (working flawlessly btw).

They said for $75 (plus $45 for the cable if you need one) they can code it out.

BUT they also said you can just press and hold the iDrive wheel for 2-3 seconds and it will activate only Siri. Works like a charm!

Hopefully this will apply to other makers of this type of system. Let us know!

[blk33]

Originally Posted by ShindigsTX

I just installed a Bimmer-tech unit in my 2012 CIC E92 M3 today (working flawlessly btw).

They said for $75 (plus $45 for the cable if you need one) they can code it out.

BUT they also said you can just press and hold the iDrive wheel for 2-3 seconds and it will activate only Siri. Works like a charm!

Hopefully this will apply to other makers of this type of system. Let us know!

Yes I know 2 - 3 seconds activates SIRI, but unfortunately the BM voice has activated as well. The BM voice then asks for clarifications which are fed into the listening SIRI. My words 'CANCEL' cancels the BM voice and also SIRI!
If you can find out, please let us know how they code it out.

[2009550iMSport]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Not to over nerd this, but technically you're still enumerating the USB device either as USB storage (the CIC then mounts that file system and plays it like it does from the internal hard drive) or as an iPod Accessory Protocol device which is a proprietary and signed interface you need an agreement with Apple to use (if you've ever bought a knockoff Iphone cable years ago you'll remember why).

If the car was built with some kind of standard digital input/optical/etc then it'd be a lot easier to hijack, but the interface just doesn't exist because everything is internal to the CIC.

A 3.5mm cable is plenty capable of transferring high-quality audio assuming:
-The actual cabling is of sufficient quality (I wouldn't be surprised if re-pinning the audio cables with a higher quality wire yielded slightly better results than the cheap Chinese harness so many people have issues with).
-The chipset outputting the audio is doing a good enough job with enough voltage/preamp. A number of us tested using a portable preamp before sending the signal into the system and it DID help the audio quality via 3.5mm jack, but as soon as the preamp was powered over USB it led to too much electrical noise because of the charging circuit, and the quality over quadlock is good enough for daily purposes.

I continue to remind people how noisy these cars are compared to any modern luxury car and fighting for quieter tires would make a bigger difference to your listening experience.

Speaking of the pre-amp, how much of an improvement did this make to the sound via 3.5mm? Was it better than the quadlok connection? I ask because I just ordered a little portable preamp off Amazon. I have a workaround for the USB interference, this little magic device:

GeeekPi USB Isolator Module ADUM3160 USB Digital Isolation USB to USB Voltage Isolator Board Protection (5KV ESD MAX) with OC Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKYYCD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SVGBQQE417N409S674AF?_ encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It has the effect of a ground noise isolator without actually filtering the audio signal. It works great for Bluetooth adapters so I figure it’ll work for this as well.

I have to say, I’m a bit disappointed in the individual audio. Everything is so treble-heavy and it’s hurting my ears. 🥴 even with Malek’s settings, it’s just too much for me. Starting to feel like a giant waste of money.

[2009550iMSport]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

I am no audiophile, but the sound quality I get via quadlock is actually great IMO. If you told me it came stock this way I would probably believe you. I have the CIC EQ set to Malek's Individual Audio settings and did have to mess around with the Carsara EQ quite a bit, but overall zero complaints with this entire system. It actually works better than our Mazda with factory CarPlay.

Would you mind sharing how you have the EQ set on the carsara?

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by 2009550iMSport

Would you mind sharing how you have the EQ set on the carsara?

Sure

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by 2009550iMSport

Speaking of the pre-amp, how much of an improvement did this make to the sound via 3.5mm? Was it better than the quadlok connection? I ask because I just ordered a little portable preamp off Amazon. I have a workaround for the USB interference, this little magic device:

GeeekPi USB Isolator Module ADUM3160 USB Digital Isolation USB to USB Voltage Isolator Board Protection (5KV ESD MAX) with OC Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKYYCD8...ing=UTF8&psc=1

It has the effect of a ground noise isolator without actually filtering the audio signal. It works great for Bluetooth adapters so I figure it’ll work for this as well.

I have to say, I’m a bit disappointed in the individual audio. Everything is so treble-heavy and it’s hurting my ears. 🥴 even with Malek’s settings, it’s just too much for me. Starting to feel like a giant waste of money.

In my experience, no the signal through the pre-amp wasn't better than the Quadlock, but I tested it for about 30 minutes before realizing it wasn't sustainable as a solution. If you can also run something that will isolate the charge noise give it a shot, but I am concerned that's more closely tied to the power circuit of the pre-amp I chose itself, so you'd have to experiment.

Malek's settings cranked the treble like I said - they also sounded terrible to me, once I turned that down a lot more I got closer to something I preferred.

[2009550iMSport]

I was perusing through some German BMW forums and discovered my issue with the individual audio system isn’t that uncommon. Many folks over in Deutschland suggested adding an amp to power the individual audio subs. I think I may give that a try, as I have an extra one lying around.

Also, I just ordered this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr12volt-M-...-127632-2357-0

It’s a new CarPlay box with built-in MOST connection. Looks promising.

[2009550iMSport]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDXDNM1...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

In my experience, no the signal through the pre-amp wasn't better than the Quadlock, but I tested it for about 30 minutes before realizing it wasn't sustainable as a solution. If you can also run something that will isolate the charge noise give it a shot, but I am concerned that's more closely tied to the power circuit of the pre-amp I chose itself, so you'd have to experiment.

Malek's settings cranked the treble like I said - they also sounded terrible to me, once I turned that down a lot more I got closer to something I preferred.

I tried this setup last night with the USB isolator. It worked like a charm. The sound is about 9% better than the quadlok connection. It cleaned up the sharpness of the treble a bit. It may just be something I can hear and nobody else really can, idk. : My hearing is very sensitive to higher frequencies. That’s what’s driving me nuts about this individual audio system. To get any sort of thumpin’ going, I have to turn the volume up way too high. I’m going to try adding an external amp to power the underseat subs and see where that takes me.

But to reiterate for those who don’t have a quadlok connection and want a clear, clean aux signal: The combination of a portable preamp + USB isolator for the preamp’s USB power supply worked great. I used this preamp from amazon ($23.99): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDXDNM1...ing=UTF8&psc=1

And this USB isolator (~$18): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKYYCD8...ing=UTF8&psc=1