Official Harrop TVS1740 Supercharger Thread

[Mvy]

On a side note, im almost two years in of continuous use on this Harrop and I love it more everyday. No issues, no bad oil reports, just a lot of fun everytime I drive.

[jamba]

Originally Posted by Mvy

On a side note, im almost two years in of continuous use on this Harrop and I love it more everyday. No issues, no bad oil reports, just a lot of fun everytime I drive.

did you change out your rod bearings?

[Mvy]

Originally Posted by jhoneil

did you change out your rod bearings?

Lord yes.

[eternallx]

Originally Posted by Mvy

On a side note, im almost two years in of continuous use on this Harrop and I love it more everyday. No issues, no bad oil reports, just a lot of fun everytime I drive.

I love how its used in OEM applications so its 100k miles maintenance free.

10 months and 9000 miles on mine. DD and weekend warrior, still loving the whine.

[JustAnothaM4]

Originally Posted by eternallx

The Harrop exchanger sits directly on top of the oem oil cooler and cant sit any higher as the routing for the hoses going in and out of the exchanger limits because it pretty much already touching the chassis where the hose barbs are.

The CSF oil cooler as 2 more rows of fins above the oem cooler, so the the harrop cooler would have to sit about .75 - 1" higher to fit it but as I said that isnt possible without changing the exchanger or cutting into the chassis to allow movement.

Oh really?!?! That is very good information. I'm guessing this will be an issue with any aftermarket oil cooler.

[eternallx]

Just to update the track-ability of this the Harrop kit.

I went to 2 track weekends this month at my local tracks. New Jersey Motorsports Park
1 weekend on Lighting @ 90-93 degrees.
1 weekend on Thunderbolt @ 70-75 degrees.

My car is running Harrop with catless armytrix exhaust and CSF Water and DCT radiators. OEM oil cooler. 265/285 Hankook RS4 tires

25 minute sessions.
Car would throw the Oil Temp too high warning when I got clear-ish laps for 2 laps.
(My time on lighting is on avg. 1:15)
No Christmas tree lights on the dash when that warning comes up but I would do my cool down lap when it came up. The oil temp needle was very close to 300

I think I was ok early morning when temps were around low 80s but its been awhile since I've been on this track so I wasnt going for it either.

Next weekend on Thunderbolt it was a nice comfortable 70-75 degrees and the engine was happy through-out the 25 min sessions.
This is my home course so to speak and not many cars this time. I got my PB 1:31 so I was happy about that.
Oil needle was around 275 and stayed there all day.

Overall impressions I am happy with the kit.
It doesnt seem to work in 90+ weather on the track but I avoid lap hunting during summers anyway.
It does heatsoak after the first 1-2 laps but power is consistent after it reaches peak IAT which is still much faster than a catless+tune M3.

So wishes for the Harrop:
I wish part throttle was better, its not OEM like smoothness
I wish I could run E85 to get a power bump but also that would take care of the oil cooling issues in 90+ weather I think.

A clip of me on Thunderbolt. Sorry for the shaky video

[dozaiya]

Originally Posted by eternallx

Just to update the track-ability of this the Harrop kit.

I went to 2 track weekends this month at my local tracks. New Jersey Motorsports Park
1 weekend on Lighting @ 90-93 degrees.
1 weekend on Thunderbolt @ 70-75 degrees.

My car is running Harrop with catless armytrix exhaust and CSF Water and DCT radiators. OEM oil cooler. 265/285 Hankook RS4 tires

25 minute sessions.
Car would throw the Oil Temp too high warning when I got clear-ish laps for 2 laps.
(My time on lighting is on avg. 1:15)
No Christmas tree lights on the dash when that warning comes up but I would do my cool down lap when it came up. The oil temp needle was very close to 300

I think I was ok early morning when temps were around low 80s but its been awhile since I've been on this track so I wasnt going for it either.

Next weekend on Thunderbolt it was a nice comfortable 70-75 degrees and the engine was happy through-out the 25 min sessions.
This is my home course so to speak and not many cars this time. I got my PB 1:31 so I was happy about that.
Oil needle was around 275 and stayed there all day.

Overall impressions I am happy with the kit.
It doesnt seem to work in 90+ weather on the track but I avoid lap hunting during summers anyway.
It does heatsoak after the first 1-2 laps but power is consistent after it reaches peak IAT which is still much faster than a catless+tune M3.

So wishes for the Harrop:
I wish part throttle was better, its not OEM like smoothness
I wish I could run E85 to get a power bump but also that would take care of the oil cooling issues in 90+ weather I think.

A clip of me on Thunderbolt. Sorry for the shaky video

appreciate the review
but wtf is your cam on acid?! never seen a more shaky footage than this

[eternallx]

Originally Posted by dozaiya

appreciate the review
but wtf is your cam on acid?! never seen a more shaky footage than this

Lol I think its a combo of my mount plus the my phone's video stabilization (google pixel 2 xl) over compensating. Going to try a different mount next time.

[dozaiya]

Originally Posted by eternallx

Lol I think its a combo of my mount plus the my phone's video stabilization (google pixel 2 xl) over compensating. Going to try a different mount next time.

it literally feels like the distortion before warp speed for sci fi films

[eternallx]

Originally Posted by M3Post

I run a couple of gallons or more of E85 with my Harrop and it works wonders on hot days to keep things cooler. There are some older threads on this board about that topic. I've run as much as 3.5 gallons of E85 with the rest being E10 93 on >90F days - and the thing still runs cool. Choice of oil viscosity also seems to affect S65 oil temps.

Interesting I'll give that a try next time thanks!

[zomg]

from the reviews i've read it sounds like the harrop is the best option for street/track use. i personally love the sound of the roots supercharger. is the kit worth the money? seems like otherwise VF is arguably a better option, dollar for dollar.

[Mvy]

Its not the best value and does not put out as much power as 600 kits, but it has some advantages over the VF 500 and ES 500 series products in my opinion. #1 the kit doesnt seem to over heat with street use like we see with some of the non intercooled products. 2) the way its installed reduces some of the strain on main bearing #1. 3) it looks like a factory fit, has excellent fit and finish.4) reliable and low maint (oil change 100k miles) 5) Assuming you buy a new one you get to deal with Mike Benvo who is a good guy and will help you through the purchase and install as you need it.6) The sound turns the car into an exotic and brings a lot of new life to the driving experience.

Ive been running it for two years. I have not had any issues with it. I have not had any weird oil analysis. I just have an ear to ear grin everytime I drive..

[XIX]

It all depends what you use the car for. The Harrop retains stock like power delivery, very linear and starts very early in the range. It will not give you the same max, but will give you much better driveability and more power through most of the range.

Depends really if you want that boosted feel, I dont feel the Harrop has the boosted feel, but has a huge increase across the range, which I prefer as I daily my car.

[Shrike360]

This might be an unwarranted fear, but the one of the primary reasons I would pick the Harrop over the centrifugal blowers is that it retains the factory air box. All those systems seem to drop the filter right into the bottom of the front air dam, and living in a wet locale, I feel like I would constantly be worried about sucking up water and hydrolocking the engine. I know I've seen it happen on at least one car. Plus, you retain some intake noise (plus a loud blower) with that air box, which I've heard some of the centrifugal owners lament the loss of.

It will be a bit before I supercharge, but right now the Harrop is my first choice of the lot. For this, and the way it delivers its power.

[Bakerboy]

Originally Posted by M3Post

Something seems strange about that 3.5psi. The kit is supposed to produce at least 6.0psi. There is a hex port on the passenger side of the plenum where boost signal can be sampled. I'm wondering IF your plenum has a rubber boot not sealing on one or more of the throttle bodies OR a boost leak somewhere else. Put on a dyno and log the boost. Also suggest 3 gals of E85 mixed with rest of tank E10 93 octane. Mike at BPM mentioned one time he had a smaller pulley on the shelf. Could also get one machined but be careful to only go slightly smaller diameter and/or must talk to Mike B' at BPM Sport. Suggest also contacting Heath Moore (owner) at Harrop about the boost drop due to elevation mitigation plan..

Hello M3 post,

I have had my kit fitted for a few hundred so thought I would take it to the dyno for a few pulls to see how it was running.

Fuelling was safe but went very rich in higher RPM and power only went to 430ish whp.

I wasn’t aware of the port for tapping into boost at the time so we didn’t track the boost. I’m thinking I have leak from somewhere and will be fitting a boost gauge when it arrives and I get a fitting to fit the port.

Doesnt appear to be belt slip as not much in way of dust deposit around belt area.

I have only got print out of the graphs at the moment so not the best quality.

[Mvy]

Originally Posted by Shrike360

Plus, you retain some intake noise (plus a loud blower) with that air box, which I've heard some of the centrifugal owners lament the loss of.

.

You wont be able to miss the intake noise on the Harrop!

[Mvy]

Originally Posted by Bakerboy

Hello M3 post,

I have had my kit fitted for a few hundred so thought I would take it to the dyno for a few pulls to see how it was running.

Fuelling was safe but went very rich in higher RPM and power only went to 430ish whp.

I wasn’t aware of the port for tapping into boost at the time so we didn’t track the boost. I’m thinking I have leak from somewhere and will be fitting a boost gauge when it arrives and I get a fitting to fit the port.

Doesnt appear to be belt slip as not much in way of dust deposit around belt area.

I have only got print out of the graphs at the moment so not the best quality.

You are about 20 HP shy of what you should be. You are on the right track checking for leaks.

[Bakerboy]

No that’s flywheel dude, it’s doing 430ish wheel.

Missing around 70hp. Big miss!

I have been trying to do a boost leak test on it and proving very difficult. The inlet pipe is so large and hard to make air tight. Tried stretching a workshop glove over then zip tie with duct tape over it but it still doesn’t seal overly well

Edit: I have checked all the inlet pipes and clamps where it meets the throttle bodies and they don’t seem to be out of place although very hard to see.

The only other places it can leak from my limited knowledge is the super charger itself, intetcoolers or the bypass valve that opens on decel.

Without being able to pressurise the unit to similar psi to what it should be and listen it’s hard to identify. Smoke test on a dyno could work but I really need to just hook up a boost gauge first and see if it is in fact low on boost.

Hopefully BPM sport might chime in with some pointers

[XIX]

What makes you think you should be 500 at the wheels?

What was your baseline? Why is it reading flywheel hp?

Originally Posted by Bakerboy

No that’s flywheel dude, it’s doing 430ish wheel.

Missing around 70hp. Big miss!

I have been trying to do a boost leak test on it and proving very difficult. The inlet pipe is so large and hard to make air tight. Tried stretching a workshop glove over then zip tie with duct tape over it but it still doesn’t seal overly well

Edit: I have checked all the inlet pipes and clamps where it meets the throttle bodies and they don’t seem to be out of place although very hard to see.

The only other places it can leak from my limited knowledge is the super charger itself, intetcoolers or the bypass valve that opens on decel.

Without being able to pressurise the unit to similar psi to what it should be and listen it’s hard to identify. Smoke test on a dyno could work but I really need to just hook up a boost gauge first and see if it is in fact low on boost.

Hopefully BPM sport might chime in with some pointers

[Bakerboy]

The kit is supposed to produce between 500-530 whp depending on fuel and exhaust changes.

The dyno works out flywheel power from the drag on deceleration I think. He switched the graph for me to view whp on his screen and it was 430h ish.

The car is run on 98 Ron and has primary cat delete.

Engine has 30k miles on it and owned it from 19k.

I can probably get the dyno operator to send me a whp graph aswell.

This is harrop graph:

http://www.bpmsport.com/files/Harrop/tvsm3dyn2.JPG

Tuned by mike at bpm

[Mvy]

Originally Posted by Bakerboy

The kit is supposed to produce between 500-530 whp depending on fuel and exhaust changes.

The dyno works out flywheel power from the drag on deceleration I think. He switched the graph for me to view whp on his screen and it was 430h ish.

The car is run on 98 Ron and has primary cat delete.

Engine has 30k miles on it and owned it from 19k.

I can probably get the dyno operator to send me a whp graph aswell.

This is harrop graph:

http://www.bpmsport.com/files/Harrop/tvsm3dyn2.JPG

Tuned by mike at bpm

Dont believe the graph or get all upset if you don't match it. It's always best to Dyno before so you know where you started. There can be a wide range of base hp on a stock car. I was probably lower than advertised stock. With the Harrop I only got 450 whp on a dynojet which rougly translates to 520 hp at the crank. I've seen some kits put out more.

I was upset about it my first Dyno run. But after trouble shooting and finding nothing wrong, I realize all the SC manufacturers dynos are "best case". Real world results vary. I started to enjoy it for what it is. More than I really need. For a street car it's an absurd amount of power and torque to work with.

[XIX]

Lots wont get near 500, depends on what other mods you have as well and what your baseline power was, and what dyno.

Mine was 470s iirc. No other mods.