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      03-05-2014, 08:41 AM   #23
mlhj83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot
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Originally Posted by mlhj83 View Post
I'm one of those who had balancing issues, and have since had confirmation from PF that it was a manufacturing fault.

Otherwise, they should in theory work better than the OEM disc in terms of cooling.

If you do get a set, just make sure that the mechanic measures runout, which should be standard practice for brake disc installation.
I will be installing rotors myself. Can you elaborate on measuring runout please?
You need a runout gauge with a clamp and flexible arm. But a simpler but less accurate way is to use a wire and secure one end to the caliper and point the other end (leaving the smallest gap possible) onto both the friction surface and the radial edge of the disc, and then spin the disc whilst watching the wire-end to see whether the tiny gap varies as the disc spins. In my case, the disc had more than 1 mm of runout, thus easily visible.
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      03-05-2014, 08:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlhj83 View Post
You need a runout gauge with a clamp and flexible arm. But a simpler but less accurate way is to use a wire and secure one end to the caliper and point the other end (leaving the smallest gap possible) onto both the friction surface and the radial edge of the disc, and then spin the disc whilst watching the wire-end to see whether the tiny gap varies as the disc spins. In my case, the disc had more than 1 mm of runout, thus easily visible.
Thanks. Here is another way to check runout tolerance. This was posted by Ricky Bobby in another thread, who also had balancing issues with these rotors

"This sounds similar to the problem I had with my PFC rotors. They didn't fit tight enough on the hub and ran in a very slight eliptical pattern because they were impossible to center. The center hole was only out of spec by fractions of a mm but that was enough to cause a wheel shimmy at 80 + mph. The best way to check for it is to rest your finger on your caliper with your nail dragging along the rotor while it's spinning. The pfc rotor caught my nail as it rotated off its axis. My multiple sets of stock rotors have all run perfectly true."
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      03-05-2014, 09:18 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlhj83 View Post
You need a runout gauge with a clamp and flexible arm. But a simpler but less accurate way is to use a wire and secure one end to the caliper and point the other end (leaving the smallest gap possible) onto both the friction surface and the radial edge of the disc, and then spin the disc whilst watching the wire-end to see whether the tiny gap varies as the disc spins. In my case, the disc had more than 1 mm of runout, thus easily visible.
Thanks. Here is another way to check runout tolerance. This was posted by Ricky Bobby in another thread, who also had balancing issues with these rotors

"This sounds similar to the problem I had with my PFC rotors. They didn't fit tight enough on the hub and ran in a very slight eliptical pattern because they were impossible to center. The center hole was only out of spec by fractions of a mm but that was enough to cause a wheel shimmy at 80 + mph. The best way to check for it is to rest your finger on your caliper with your nail dragging along the rotor while it's spinning. The pfc rotor caught my nail as it rotated off its axis. My multiple sets of stock rotors have all run perfectly true."
Plenty of ways to check. Though, I would suggest against using your finger nail for obvious reasons. But it's your choice as to what you wish to use as a fixed point of reference.
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      03-08-2014, 07:04 PM   #26
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First report back of the PF front rotors from Road Atlanta today. Weather is great, low 70s and sunny. So the one thing I can report is that this combination gives a much more consistent pedal all through the session. With the stock rotors (I haven't changed pads, have always run RS-19s on the track), the pedal feel was always best early in the session and then it would get progressively less linear is probably the best way to describe it (well before you get outright fade and a big decrease in braking effect). Now from beginning of session to end the pedal feels exactly the same, that's probably what is confidence inspiring with a BBK.

I have not been able to push the brakes as hard as previous as our run group is pretty good size and there's always traffic somewhere along the way. Also, I'm on street tires so the brakes are not working as hard as when running R-comps. Overall, I'd say it's a pretty significant improvement. This is just my experience, presumably a different track, faster driver, different car set up might respond differently but for my combination it's pretty effective.
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      03-10-2014, 03:43 PM   #27
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Sounds good How did they look at the end of the weekend, any cracks, grooves or anything unusual?
I may try these rotors with solid guide pins along with the removal of brake dust shields just for the track season and see what happens.
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      03-10-2014, 06:27 PM   #28
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Rotors look good, no cracks or anything. There is slight blueing of the rotors where each of the ears attach to the hub but nothing unusual. I'm happy with this set up for now. Even though I'm an "advanced" driver, I'm still learning and each time I go to Road Atlanta I'm learning to use the brakes less and less, however, there's no getting around turn 10a in which you need to lose a lot of speed from the back straight.
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      03-16-2014, 04:23 PM   #29
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Report back from Summit Point Main. Ran 8 sessions this weekend each lasting 20 mins. Some were with students.

Pf08s. These pads have a history of lasting me a weekend (have gone through 15 sets in two years). Would use stock rotors because they were dealer replaced (false economics).

Long and short with these rotors, ZERO fade, no glazing and only 1/3 wear on pads.

No need for a BBK for me. Stock system is adequate for my needs.

Stock drilled rotors were the culprit.

+1 for these rotors.
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      03-16-2014, 05:13 PM   #30
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Report back from Summit Point Main. Ran 8 sessions this weekend each lasting 20 mins. Some were with students.

Pf08s. These pads have a history of lasting me a weekend (have gone through 15 sets in two years). Would use stock rotors because they were dealer replaced (false economics).

Long and short with these rotors, ZERO fade, no glazing and only 1/3 wear on pads.

No need for a BBK for me. Stock system is adequate for my needs.

Stock drilled rotors were the culprit.

+1 for these rotors.
Good to hear that you liked these rotors too. I am definately going to order them now. Did you go with all 4 or just front?
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      03-16-2014, 05:49 PM   #31
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Less pad wear for me too (RS-19s). I don't know, do the holes eat more pad material?
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      03-16-2014, 06:03 PM   #32
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Less pad wear for me too (RS-19s). I don't know, do the holes eat more pad material?
Ground pilot just fronts. They don't have it for rears hopefully soon.

VictorH cob of better vanes for cooling and yes sans nasty holes that eat up good pad for no reason. Front and rears wearing evenly. Should be 2:1 f/r that shows the holes are eating up pads? Very pleased with these rotors!
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      03-16-2014, 06:47 PM   #33
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So do these rotors come out of balance?
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Perception and Reality are Two totally different Things.
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      03-16-2014, 11:42 PM   #34
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So do these rotors come out of balance?
No. The pad wear at the rear is somewhat comparable to the fronts when it should be 2 sets of pads in front to one set rear. I contribute this to reduced front wear with better rotors and higher rear wear due to drilled rear rotors.
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      03-16-2014, 11:57 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutfy View Post
Report back from Summit Point Main. Ran 8 sessions this weekend each lasting 20 mins. Some were with students.

Pf08s. These pads have a history of lasting me a weekend (have gone through 15 sets in two years). Would use stock rotors because they were dealer replaced (false economics).

Long and short with these rotors, ZERO fade, no glazing and only 1/3 wear on pads.

No need for a BBK for me. Stock system is adequate for my needs.

Stock drilled rotors were the culprit.

+1 for these rotors.
Great feedback. Are you running V3s or V2s? Also what pads are you running on the street? Thanks ...
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      03-17-2014, 01:21 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutfy View Post
Report back from Summit Point Main. Ran 8 sessions this weekend each lasting 20 mins. Some were with students.

Pf08s. These pads have a history of lasting me a weekend (have gone through 15 sets in two years). Would use stock rotors because they were dealer replaced (false economics).

Long and short with these rotors, ZERO fade, no glazing and only 1/3 wear on pads.

No need for a BBK for me. Stock system is adequate for my needs.

Stock drilled rotors were the culprit.

+1 for these rotors.
Excellent!

Less heat generally mean less wear as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Great feedback. Are you running V3s or V2s? Also what pads are you running on the street? Thanks ...
The new version should be out this year, but PFC didn't say when. We will make an announcement when we have more information.
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      03-17-2014, 09:19 AM   #37
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Great feedback. Are you running V3s or V2s? Also what pads are you running on the street? Thanks ...
V3s are only out for M3 competition package. Unsure when they will come out with V3 for our cars as they are slammed with the new racing season. I can deal with screws nuts and bolts if I am only changing them once every year or year and a half.

Stock Jurid pads on street.

Lutfy
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      03-17-2014, 09:35 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Excellent!

Less heat generally mean less wear as well.



The new version should be out this year, but PFC didn't say when. We will make an announcement when we have more information.
Any details about the difference between old and new version?
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      03-17-2014, 10:52 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutfy View Post
V3s are only out for M3 competition package. Unsure when they will come out with V3 for our cars as they are slammed with the new racing season. I can deal with screws nuts and bolts if I am only changing them once every year or year and a half.

Stock Jurid pads on street.

Lutfy
So there is a newer version for the competition pck M3's? Is this available now? Do you know the differences?
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      03-17-2014, 12:51 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by 03///m3 View Post
So there is a newer version for the competition pck M3's? Is this available now? Do you know the differences?
I think he's referring to E46 M3s with ZCP ... I think V3 is already out for those.
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      03-18-2014, 08:55 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
I think he's referring to E46 M3s with ZCP ... I think V3 is already out for those.
That is correct, sorry about the ambiguity.
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      03-18-2014, 11:12 AM   #42
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do they make a slotted 2pc rotor?
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      03-19-2014, 05:05 PM   #43
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do they make a slotted 2pc rotor?
Nope just what you see. Dimples only. No drills or slots (don't want the slots to the circumference anyways because that's where the crack begins. Most rotors ie Alcon etc don't use those either.

Last night changed my track pads to street pads and putting it side by side just ecstatic how little they wore I think it will last me 3-4 weekends at this rate vs going through a set each weekend.

No affiliation, just very very happy after a lot of frustration.

Lutfy
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      03-23-2014, 12:22 PM   #44
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So is this the only company that makes a 2pc rotor for the OEM caliper?
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