Low Level Rca inputs

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

I can't believe that not only did I not get what I wanted from premium audio, I also have to go through more trouble to improve it.

Technic, please tell me there was some reason I spent $1900 on premium audio, pretty front grills, better speakers... woe is me.

On the brighter side, Mr Dave Navone is solving my troubles with a $43 magic box.

The only reason that I can see of getting the Premium Audio is not to upgrade...

At least the Premium OEM 4" components and coaxials are great up to 100W RMS, though. The weak link continue to be the OEM subs and the OEM DSP processing, IMO.

Just to make sure that you get the correct "magic box" for this application, it would be helpful for Mr. Navone to know that you will like your LOC to get its input from an approximately 150W peak at 7 ohms signal that will continue to drive the OEM subs. If this will be a custom LOC design after all let's do it with your particular requirements for the best conversion possible.

[BarryC]

Hi Technic,

I'm looking at replacing my subs also and thought about using a JL audio amp. The owner's manual states the following with regard to input capability:

"The “High” position on the “Input Voltage” switch selects an input
sensitivity range between 800mV and 8V."

Do you think this will work with the stock amp output?

Thanks,
Barry

[Technic]

Originally Posted by BarryC

Hi Technic,

I'm looking at replacing my subs also and thought about using a JL audio amp. The owner's manual states the following with regard to input capability:

"The “High” position on the “Input Voltage” switch selects an input
sensitivity range between 800mV and 8V."

Do you think this will work with the stock amp output?

Thanks,
Barry

Which stock amp is that?

[BarryC]

Originally Posted by Technic

Which stock amp is that?

The sub amp. I wanted to just replace the subs and add an amp. I was going to use the output of the stock sub amp rather than going a more sophisticated route.

Thx,
BC

[Technic]

Originally Posted by BarryC

The sub amp. I wanted to just replace the subs and add an amp. I was going to use the output of the stock sub amp rather than going a more sophisticated route.

Thx,
BC

Sorry, what I meant was the type of OEM amp that your car has, Premium or standard?

[BarryC]

Originally Posted by Technic

Sorry, what I meant was the type of OEM amp that your car has, Premium or standard?

AAhhhh.... premium unfortunately (i.e. I paid $1,900 for a lackluster setup).

[Technic]

Originally Posted by BarryC

AAhhhh.... premium unfortunately (i.e. I paid $1,900 for a lackluster setup).

Your situation is the same as the OP... that JL Amp at 8V max input in high level will not going to reliably make it with the Premium OEM amp sub outputs. It is simply too much power going out (> 100W peak at 7 ohms) at the Premium OEM amp. That kind of power represent at least 28V peak/20V RMS, which can damage your JL amp if sustained.

The reason that my setup works using the Premium OEM amp sub outputs is that the JL Audio summing device accept high level inputs as high as 20V RMS.

You will need the same type of high powered passive LOC - or the LC6i active LOC- that the OP will be using to handle that power output before that Jl amp.

[Gemcoska]

Hey Technic,

I finally have my sub, amp, and LOC in and ready for the install. I know you gave me the prologic wiring harness assignment diagram where everything is numbered. Does the actual wire harness have numbers on the wires so i can tell which wire is remote, sub output L and R?

Thanks

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

Hey Technic,

I finally have my sub, amp, and LOC in and ready for the install. I know you gave me the prologic wiring harness assignment diagram where everything is numbered. Does the actual wire harness have numbers on the wires so i can tell which wire is remote, sub output L and R?

Thanks

Yes, there are numbers in the Premium OEM amp connector pins and the layout is set in a way that the channels (+ and -) wires are beside each other; for example, pins 8 and 18 for the left sub channel are side by side, and so on.

The remote wire is in the back of the iDrive computer, at pin 13.

[Gemcoska]

Is the '08 iDrive computer (which i think is the same as the CIC) located in the same place as the '09?
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=cic

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

Is the '08 iDrive computer (which i think is the same as the CIC) located in the same place as the '09?
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=cic

Yes, the mounting location is exactly the same. Pins are the same assignment in the connector also.

[Gemcoska]

Ugh.. .i was hoping it was in the trunk. Well at least it looks like just the panel and the few screws to get to the CIC harness.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

Ugh.. .i was hoping it was in the trunk. Well at least it looks like just the panel and the few screws to get to the CIC harness.

There is no remote line in the OEM digital amps, only in the analog one.

[Gemcoska]

I suppose it shouldn't be too hard to run the remote under the center console and under the rear seats to the trunk

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

I suppose it shouldn't be too hard to run the remote under the center console and under the rear seats to the trunk

No, it is not difficult although a wire "fisher" helps a lot in certain spots to avoid removing any trim. You can run a single wire from under the computer, behind the gas pedal, under the door sills trim, under the rear seat and to the trunk.

[Gemcoska]

First off BIG UPs to technic for all his help

Finished* my install last night. Looks pretty good, but needs some tweaking to the levels. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure I tossed the amp manual. The sub is still loud at low levels and not loud enough at high levels. What's up with that?

Here the immediate concern. The little power light on the amp seems to stay on all the time. I tapped into wire 13 from the CIC; i was surprised that it was a black wire and VERY thin. Now I can't tell if the amp turns on because the idrive activites anytime you open the doors or anything.

Any insights?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

First off BIG UPs to technic for all his help

Finished* my install last night. Looks pretty good, but needs some tweaking to the levels. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure I tossed the amp manual. The sub is still loud at low levels and not loud enough at high levels. 1) What's up with that?

Here the immediate concern. 2) The little power light on the amp seems to stay on all the time. I tapped into wire 13 from the CIC; i was surprised that it was a black wire and VERY thin. Now I can't tell if the amp turns on because the idrive activites anytime you open the doors or anything.

Any insights?

1) The Premium Audio OEM amp is always doing some procesing, be due to speed or simply due to volume level -and sometimes both at the same time.

2) Try opening just the trunk and leave it open, take a look at the amp light -should be on- and then come back after some 5-10 minutes. The amp light should be off by then...

[Gemcoska]

Originally Posted by Technic

1) The Premium Audio OEM amp is always doing some procesing, be due to speed or simply due to volume level -and sometimes both at the same time.

So you're saying this can't be fixed w/ just the controls on the amp? There's and Input Level and Bass boot along with LP filter and subsonic level

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

So you're saying this can't be fixed w/ just the controls on the amp? There's and Input Level and Bass boot along with LP filter and subsonic level

What amp you ended up getting? Edit: I saw that you got the MD-1D.

No, what I'm saying is that you will need to tune either the LOC (if it has gain controls), the 100Hz band of the EQ, the bass adjustment, the amp gains and/or just the bass boost (that's primarily its purpose) to compensate for this fluctuation. Set also the speed compensation volume level to the minimum and the amp crossover to the highest frequency of the low pass filter... let the OEM amp low pass go all the way thru without any other filtering.

It takes time and effort but it can be done in a way that you can enjoy the new subs capabilities at any volume.

[Gemcoska]

Wow... okay, alot more than I had orginally though. The LOC has no gain controls, so i guess thats out. I don't have a separate EQ, so i guess I'll be adjusting the 100Hz band of the OEM eq.

Whats the diff between "Level" and "Bass Boost"?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Gemcoska

Wow... okay, alot more than I had orginally though. The LOC has no gain controls, so i guess thats out. I don't have a separate EQ, so i guess I'll be adjusting the 100Hz band of the OEM eq.

Whats the diff between "Level" and "Bass Boost"?

"Level" is the gain of the amplifier that you adjust to match the signal input level from the source and "Bass Boost" is a built-in parametric EQ for a particular bass frequency (for example, centered at 60 Hz) that you can adjust its attenuation with the knob.

[kmac1980]

any pics?