Stand still burnout

[SVH]

Put really skinny tires on the rear !
Most M3's have fat rear tires.

[pbonsalb]

I love leaving rubber. I don’t have to be standing still. It’s fun to drive sort of sideways. Have thought about adding a line lock to my E90M3. I put one on my turbo E36M3, which I do drag race sometimes. I might try my E90M3 this year on my E36 wheels since they have R compound tires. My local track usually has such poor prep that it is scary with street tires and decent power.

[Ngilbe36]

I have a couple of comments.
- Like others have mentioned, you should learn this skill on a cheap car that you don't care about. Pick-up trucks are particularly easy.
- Hold the brake about 1/4-1/2 of the way and lay on the throttle until the rear breaks loose then let a little more brake out once its spinning, (Dynamic friction is lower than static, PHYSICS).
- If you are serious about doing burnouts, like for drag racing, and are mechanically inclined or willing to pay someone, you can buy line lock kits for <$100 for cars which basically act as a valve in your brake system that can be activated to only use the front brakes. My buddy put one on his C6 Z06 with relative ease.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by cjm41

Yes- but it's just like dumping the clutch on a manual... however, you can more easily hit your brake with your left foot. On a manual you've got to feather the throttle while breaking with your right foot.

The point was, you can dump the clutch on a DCT. When you mash the gas as outlined above. The car won't move until you hit 6k RPM and your clutch "disengages" - from a mechanical and physics perspective it's identical to dumping the clutch on a manual, only the computer does it rather than you sliding your foot off the clutch pedal.

What you do with your right and left foot is up to the user

For what it's worth, I didn't know the car could do this. One night I was playing around in a deserted industrial park and turned DSC off and dialed the DCT up and mashed the throttle, the RPMs raced and the car didn't move, i thought for a fraction of a second my clutches were toast then I was catapulted forward haha

Maybe I'm getting into semantics but what you describe isn't dumping the clutch. You're just overwhelming the rear tires. The clutch is engaged and your revving the motor.

Dumping the clutch is engaging the clutch with the flywheel spinning at some high amount of RPMs the spins the transmission. The DCT ECU won't engage a forward or reverse gear if the revs are elevated.

[cjm41]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Maybe I'm getting into semantics but what you describe isn't dumping the clutch. You're just overwhelming the rear tires. The clutch is engaged and your revving the motor.

Dumping the clutch is engaging the clutch with the flywheel spinning at some high amount of RPMs the spins the transmission. The DCT ECU won't engage a forward or reverse gear if the revs are elevated.

No. It is literally dumping the clutch. If you turn DSC off and put the DCT in 5/6 and mash the gas, the clutch will dump (disengage) at like 6k RPM. It works similar to launch control, only the clutch disengagement isn't triggered by the shifter, it happens automatically at a certain, high RPM

Go outside and try it. I'm not going to Internet argue about it, I'm not some noob trying to understand the mechanics of drivetrains, I'm not just making stuff up. It's probably in some owners manual somewhere too. I don't care enough to look.

Personally, I don't needlessly beat the hell out of my car, but I'm confident it was designed to do this, for whatever reason. I know it seems odd. First time I did this on accident I ran to the forum thinking something was wrong and everyone jumped to tell me it's feature. Sure would be nice if they could pop in and back me up right now

[Surquhar]

Originally Posted by cjm41

No. It is literally dumping the clutch. If you turn DSC off and put the DCT in 5/6 and mash the gas, the clutch will dump (disengage) at like 6k RPM. It works similar to launch control, only the clutch disengagement isn't triggered by the shifter, it happens automatically at a certain, high RPM

Go outside and try it. I'm not going to Internet argue about it, I'm not some noob trying to understand the mechanics of drivetrains, I'm not just making stuff up. It's probably in some owners manual somewhere too. I don't care enough to look.

Personally, I don't needlessly beat the hell out of my car, but I'm confident it was designed to do this, for whatever reason. I know it seems odd. First time I did this on accident I ran to the forum thinking something was wrong and everyone jumped to tell me it's feature. Sure would be nice if they could pop in and back me up right now

This is 100% right. It’s exactly like dumping the clutch. I beat mine all the time doing burnouts for 1/2 mile runs.

[Willem3]

I think it is bad for the rear bushings, they can’t handle the forces of dumping the clutch and wheel hop.

[BlkOnyx]

Im looking forward to trying a DCT Launch on E93 M3, waiting to get out of the city to try it out, queens and nyc in general suck, too many cameras, cops and shitface drivers..

[Thumbie]

It's easier if it's raining

[Scrippy]

From a stand still in S6, if I stab past kickback on the pedal, I absolutely smoke the tires. 289,XXX miles and stock. Turn off traction control and you can probably even do it in S3-6. I am running the stock 265 in the rear though. I’m not sure if stock could spin 285’s but I’ll find out in a few months when I try 285/265 staggered setup.

[gasblip]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

From a stand still in S6, if I stab past kickback on the pedal, I absolutely smoke the tires. 289,XXX miles and stock. Turn off traction control and you can probably even do it in S3-6. I am running the stock 265 in the rear though. I’m not sure if stock could spin 285’s but I’ll find out in a few months when I try 285/265 staggered setup.

Did you have to do rod bearings at 289k? And if so at what mileage? How did they look?

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by gasblip

Did you have to do rod bearings at 289k? And if so at what mileage? How did they look?

Did them at 25k and around 125-150,000k. The 25k set looked horrible and the 125-150,000k set looked fine. Warm up and 5k oil changes make a difference.

[gasblip]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

Did them at 25k and around 125-150,000k. The 25k set looked horrible and the 125-150,000k set looked fine. Warm up and 5k oil changes make a difference.

I’m assuming you went aftermarket, did you use BE or ACL? Always curious how they look after 100k miles. If you have pics I’d love to take a look, thanks again

[Scrippy]

-OEM’s that came with car looked like shit when removed. especially for not that many miles .

1st replacement set was WPC with ARP bolts.
-When these came out they looked great.

2nd replacement set was all BMW OEM.
-Still in now

I can’t find the original set but here are my ARP’s after over 120,XXX roughly. (See pic). They are all taped together 1-8 top & bottoms.

[gasblip]

Appreciate the update! They do indeed look great after 120k

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by gasblip

Appreciate the update! They do indeed look great after 120k

I am no expert but the originals looked way more worn. Deeper and exposing a greater patch per bearing. It was fairly even amongst them but a lil harsher on 4&8 (rear cylinders).