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      07-05-2016, 07:00 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Plugs are a completely separate job. No need to drain any PS fluid.
Explain?
Unless you are not dropping the front end?
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      07-05-2016, 07:05 PM   #24
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Disconnect hose from bracket and there is enough play when subframe is hanging. I did it the hard way the first time and dropped the whole front end. Did it the easy way the next time.
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      07-05-2016, 07:13 PM   #25
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You have enough room to work with the subframe hanging?
Sorry if this has been discussed before. I literally just started looking into this.
I do E46 M3 rod bearings on a regular basis and always remove the whole front subframe (it's only a couple bolts/couple hoses).
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      07-05-2016, 07:32 PM   #26
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Leave it hanging. It is very light. There is enough room. Absolutely no need to remove it. Look at attached picture of EAS doing it.
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Last edited by pbonsalb; 07-06-2016 at 03:53 PM..
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      07-05-2016, 08:03 PM   #27
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Yeah just let the subframe hang on the suspension
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      07-05-2016, 08:04 PM   #28
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http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1237264
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      07-05-2016, 09:08 PM   #29
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I have the Bimmerworld mounts on the E46M3. I hate the vibration at idle, especially since it's my wife's daily driver.
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      07-06-2016, 09:22 AM   #30
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Good thing you changed those, they looked pretty beat.

There is lots of satisfaction in doing a job like this yourself too, you know how well it was done and that lots of care was taken, you get to have peace of mind, and finally working on your car yourself is fun.
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      07-06-2016, 02:52 PM   #31
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That's awesome good for you
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      07-06-2016, 04:03 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Leave it hanging. It is very light. There is enough room. Absolutely no need to remove it. Look at attached picture of EAS doing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nholmes View Post
Yeah just let the subframe hang on the suspension

Good to know, thanks
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      07-06-2016, 06:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger
I have the Bimmerworld mounts on the E46M3. I hate the vibration at idle, especially since it's my wife's daily driver.
I'm just wondering if that's the same experience people are having with the 92 platform. Will talk to Google for answers.
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      07-06-2016, 11:39 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L4ces View Post
I'm just wondering if that's the same experience people are having with the 92 platform. Will talk to Google for answers.
lettuce no!
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      10-07-2016, 04:24 PM   #35
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turning the engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by nholmes View Post
I didn't bother with these:

oil pump small suction pipe o-ring 1 11417839832
oil pump return pipe o-ring 1 11417839833
oil pump large suction pipe o-ring 1 11417838534

I inspected mine and with 104k on them, they were still in great shape.

Totally up to you though.

I also went with these motor mounts:

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/En...Mount-Set.html

To add to the longevity of your mounts, you might want to consider adding some heat shields from the E36 or you can just fab up some out of aluminum, that's what I did:

So you can turn the engine by hand from under the car? I can see this on a 6MT when you leave it in neutral but what about DCT? would it not be locked into park mode making it much harder to turn the engine?

thanks

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      10-07-2016, 05:01 PM   #36
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You can put a DCT into neutral manually under the shift lever cover
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      10-09-2016, 10:24 PM   #37
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Is there a listing with the torques for the oil pan and subframe bolts (and any others) for this job?

I have the ARP rod bolts, so iirc, those are 50 foot lbs.

Planning on tackling this over the weekend assuming my "mouse elbow" (tennis elbow) doesn't act up again. Re-aggrevated it Friday while lifting a cooler in the car that shifted while driving... (left a bruise -- ow!!). Surgeon will likely shoot me up again...
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      10-11-2016, 11:49 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmtemauricio View Post
So you can turn the engine by hand from under the car? I can see this on a 6MT when you leave it in neutral but what about DCT? would it not be locked into park mode making it much harder to turn the engine?

thanks

Mauricio
You put a wrench on the crank once the car is in neutral. You can manually put the DCT in neutral by lifting up the shift knob cover and flipping a white plastic switch. It will auto flip back into gear though if you turn on the ignition.

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      10-11-2016, 10:56 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
Is there a listing with the torques for the oil pan and subframe bolts (and any others) for this job?

I have the ARP rod bolts, so iirc, those are 50 foot lbs.

Planning on tackling this over the weekend assuming my "mouse elbow" (tennis elbow) doesn't act up again. Re-aggrevated it Friday while lifting a cooler in the car that shifted while driving... (left a bruise -- ow!!). Surgeon will likely shoot me up again...
I just made sure they were good and tight. Don't wrench on it as the bolt is quite small.
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      10-12-2016, 09:24 AM   #40
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If you dont have a feel for this stuff, find the specs or look up spec ranges for the bolt size and thread. Breaking a pan bolt could be a pain to fix.
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      10-14-2016, 09:44 PM   #41
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Thanks for posting this. Those rod bearings still had quite a bit of life left actually. Only a couple were starting to show a very small amount of copper. However the wear for 60k miles is much greater then one would expect in a modern engine. What was your oil change frequency/brand, any track time?
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      10-16-2016, 04:45 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer View Post
Thanks for posting this. Those rod bearings still had quite a bit of life left actually. Only a couple were starting to show a very small amount of copper. However the wear for 60k miles is much greater then one would expect in a modern engine. What was your oil change frequency/brand, any track time?
I'm the 2nd owner so can't say for sure what the past was like. Given the overall very good shape of the car when I bought it, I'd say they were easy miles. I never track it and drive it everyday spirited but not too hard.
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      10-26-2016, 11:53 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmtemauricio View Post
So you can turn the engine by hand from under the car? I can see this on a 6MT when you leave it in neutral but what about DCT? would it not be locked into park mode making it much harder to turn the engine?

thanks

Mauricio
You put a wrench on the crank once the car is in neutral. You can manually put the DCT in neutral by lifting up the shift knob cover and flipping a white plastic switch. It will auto flip back into gear though if you turn on the ignition.



Thanks NHOLMES, I would never have figured that out by myself.
I'm trying to address every possible issue before I attempt to do this job.
Great video.
Thanks again.

Mauricio
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