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      05-21-2015, 07:12 AM   #23
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Nope. Not confirmed.

It all depends on what the code reader spits out.

Also remember, first reset your codes as you will probably have some in there from the past... Drive around a bit, do a few cold starts, and then see what codes show up.

I dont have the idle bounce issue... But in my opinion (and I'm no expert... DIY home mechanic at best...), it does look like a fuel issue.

As far as the single clunk, dont worry much about it... Its related to the alternator kicking on. I had a multiple "clunk-clunk-clunk..." which is why I spent so much time diagnosing mine..

And sorry to slightly hijack your thread here, your issue is the idle bounce... Not the clunk.

Good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAFiK View Post
It is 6MT





It is a single clunk, similar to the video M Power Belgium posted but VERY quiet and it is barely noticeable and that's why I was failing to notice it at the beginning.

I do appreciate your reply regarding the pressure sensors. So it is confirmed to be a fuel issue?

I ordered a DCAN Cable for my car and should reach in about a week, once it is here I'll post the fault codes for you to see them!

Much appreciated!
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      05-21-2015, 03:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anom3 View Post
Nope. Not confirmed.

It all depends on what the code reader spits out.

Also remember, first reset your codes as you will probably have some in there from the past... Drive around a bit, do a few cold starts, and then see what codes show up.

I dont have the idle bounce issue... But in my opinion (and I'm no expert... DIY home mechanic at best...), it does look like a fuel issue.

As far as the single clunk, dont worry much about it... Its related to the alternator kicking on. I had a multiple "clunk-clunk-clunk..." which is why I spent so much time diagnosing mine..

And sorry to slightly hijack your thread here, your issue is the idle bounce... Not the clunk.

Good luck!
It's alright, I do appreciate your note and concern

I'll be plugging in the cable probably within few days and will update this with the codes I am getting.
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      05-25-2015, 02:11 PM   #25
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Error Codes

Okay here are the codes I got...


Motor Control:

Engine / Motor

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration cyl 1

Code: 2B42

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration cylinder 2

Code: 2B43

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration cyl 3

Code: 2B44

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration 4 cyl

Code: 2B45

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration 5 Cyl

Code: 2B46

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration 6 cyl

Code: 2B47

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration cyl 7

Code: 2B48

Fault: Misfire with emissions deterioration 8 Cyl

Code: 2B49

Fault: Deterioration cyl misfire with emissions more

Code: 2B4E

Fault: Bad way detection

Code: 2789

Fault: Ambient temperature

Code: 278A

Fault: Environmental pressure plausibility

Code: 27C4

Fault: Info tank empty at fault entry

Code: 27C1
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      05-25-2015, 03:19 PM   #26
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Hi Rafik,

Since you have a misfire in every cylinder, I would look at something that has an effect on both banks, such as the idle control valve.

2789 and 278A are Cat Efficiency - so this is due to having primary decats and not being tuned for it. These two you can ignore.

27C4 - I would address the other faults and then come back to this one.
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      05-25-2015, 04:08 PM   #27
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I have EXACTLY the same issue with my 2008 M3 E92 MT. Only after letting the car sit down for one whole night I get a similar erratic idle. Sometimes the engine almost stalls.

I run a diagnosis (just got the EVOLVE-R to get rid of the cold cycle start which I have not yet installed) and got the same codes: misfires basically on all cylinders.

I have already tried to change gas stations but it didn't improve. I did run a full tank with a fuel injector cleaner and it appeared to have solved the problem. But one week later the issue came back. I don't have any issue once the car warms up.

Let me know if you get it solved.
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      05-25-2015, 04:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeruM3 View Post
I have EXACTLY the same issue with my 2008 M3 E92 MT. Only after letting the car sit down for one whole night I get a similar erratic idle. Sometimes the engine almost stalls.

I run a diagnosis (just got the EVOLVE-R to get rid of the cold cycle start which I have not yet installed) and got the same codes: misfires basically on all cylinders.

I have already tried to change gas stations but it didn't improve. I did run a full tank with a fuel injector cleaner and it appeared to have solved the problem. But one week later the issue came back. I don't have any issue once the car warms up.

Let me know if you get it solved.
Have a dealer or qualified independent shop perform an idle air actuator test with factory equipment. It's a great diagnostic procedure which tests a number of different aspects of ICV operation. I've seen many come up as faulty even at times when no check engine light is present.
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      05-26-2015, 06:04 AM   #29
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So what is my next step? Fuel injector cleaner or what?
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      05-26-2015, 11:37 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAFiK
So what is my next step? Fuel injector cleaner or what?
Read my post. That should be your next step.

I would also log the car to see if anything looks out of place.
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      05-26-2015, 12:41 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAFiK View Post
That's a good start and bit relieving!

Any other people?
Today morning had the exact same thing!
Then I looked it up, from O2 sensor's to ICV Valve leak up onto Fuel pump issue were the guessed theorie's on the net.
Same as you I didn't had a CEL popping up, Iam also very curious if something ( connection to a sensor ) might got loose on our car's.
I'm more then sure it's definately no biggy, so don't worry
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      05-27-2015, 02:44 PM   #32
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Haven't been able to solve this yet. Exactly the same idle issue as RAFIK and with the same DME codes.

BTW service light is due to overdue brake pad replacement.

[u2b]https://youtu.be/fz_4nAFuGAw[/u2b]
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Last edited by PeruM3; 05-27-2015 at 02:49 PM.. Reason: Wrong video link
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      05-27-2015, 02:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeruM3 View Post
Haven't been able to solve this yet. Exactly the same idle issue as RAFIK and with the same DME codes.

BTW service light is due to overdue brake pad replacement.

[u2b]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fz_4nAFuGAw[/u2b]
Whoa that's even a stronger misfire than mine! You nearly reached 200 RPM!!
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      05-27-2015, 02:54 PM   #34
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I know! I changed spark plugs 2 months ago. I've been told it could be faulty injectors that drip gas over night and this generates the misfires. But the codes are on all cylinders so unless its an issue with all injectors (hope not), it has to be something else. IAC, Fuel Pump?
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      05-27-2015, 03:44 PM   #35
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I hear the fuel pump on these cars isn't that trust worthy. The thing is, my car and yours are considered low mileage cars and I honestly use 98 Octane Fuel so I don't think this fuel is causing any harm ...
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      05-28-2015, 03:36 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAFiK View Post
I hear the fuel pump on these cars isn't that trust worthy. The thing is, my car and yours are considered low mileage cars and I honestly use 98 Octane Fuel so I don't think this fuel is causing any harm ...
I have never heard of pump problems on these cars... About 15k miles ago I got a fuel pump malfunction on mine and it turned out to be the low pressure fuel sensor.

The pumps are pretty good on these.. and luckily we're not plagued with all of the HPFP problems on the non M's.
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      05-28-2015, 07:50 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtechniksa View Post
hey raf Service Bulletin 13-05-08 seen this one a bunch. idle strips may be contaminated with rubber will cause your symptoms if not a fuel or intake issue
Where can i see more details of this service bulletin?
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      05-30-2015, 01:14 PM   #38
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I just installed the Evolve stage 2 tune on my car with cold start removal. The problem with the erratic idle is gone!

The car no longer does the cold start sequence so it starts smoother and very stable.

I will nevertheless have the idle strips cleaned but at least this has reduced the annoying starts in the morning.
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      06-29-2015, 09:57 AM   #39
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I had a similar issue on cold starts (with the car sitting for 2+ days). Issue seems to go away if I let the fuel pump cycle complete before starting car (I do this by clicking the start but without the foot on the brake). After fuel pump cycle completes (3-5 seconds) I start the car with no issues or hesitation.

Can you try and let me know? Do you think this is a sign of a fuel pump on its way out?
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      12-18-2017, 02:03 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylonsays View Post
I had a similar issue on cold starts (with the car sitting for 2+ days). Issue seems to go away if I let the fuel pump cycle complete before starting car (I do this by clicking the start but without the foot on the brake). After fuel pump cycle completes (3-5 seconds) I start the car with no issues or hesitation.

Can you try and let me know? Do you think this is a sign of a fuel pump on its way out?
I tried what you said (click start button without foot on brake) several times then to start the car from cold.

And fewer error found. BTW, I am going to replace gasket, plug, and coil soon.

Cold Start Video I recorded today (12/18):
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      12-18-2017, 02:19 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renaissance View Post
I tried what you said (click start button without foot on brake) several times then to start the car from cold.

And fewer error found. BTW, I am going to replace gasket, plug, and coil soon.

Cold Start Video I recorded today (12/18):
Eventhough this thread is almost three years old Iam very interested to find out, whats the real matter of this clunking sound.
I‘ve also had it AND it was even louder after the day I replaced my rod bearings.
When I asked the mechanic that did the RP’s, he replied: Just normal typical vanos sounds.
....Hmmm...so why then did it got louder after the RB changing?
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      12-18-2017, 01:28 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsix View Post
Eventhough this thread is almost three years old Iam very interested to find out, whats the real matter of this clunking sound.
I‘ve also had it AND it was even louder after the day I replaced my rod bearings.
When I asked the mechanic that did the RP’s, he replied: Just normal typical vanos sounds.
....Hmmm...so why then did it got louder after the RB changing?
it's a shame the posters don't come back, especially that Mike has given excellent advice and instructions and then poof they're gone.
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      12-18-2017, 06:56 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsix View Post
Eventhough this thread is almost three years old Iam very interested to find out, whats the real matter of this clunking sound.
I‘ve also had it AND it was even louder after the day I replaced my rod bearings.
When I asked the mechanic that did the RP’s, he replied: Just normal typical vanos sounds.
....Hmmm...so why then did it got louder after the RB changing?
Frankly speaking, this thread is really helpful!
Now I only see Error Codes (2B42-2B4E) since 12/18.
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      12-18-2017, 07:01 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrón View Post
it's a shame the posters don't come back, especially that Mike has given excellent advice and instructions and then poof they're gone.
I PM him to come back
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