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09-26-2016, 10:09 PM | #23 | |
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10-05-2016, 02:12 PM | #24 |
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What's the deal with oil on the spark plug threads? I recently changed mine for the first time and noticed the bottom 1/4 of the threads were brown. Is that oil or just heat?
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10-05-2016, 06:22 PM | #25 | |
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2010 E92 M3 DCT
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10-08-2016, 04:55 PM | #26 |
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10-31-2016, 08:37 AM | #31 | |
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I'll put together something shortly, I'll consider it a parting gift to the forum. :
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2010 E92 M3 DCT
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01-26-2017, 10:24 PM | #34 |
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Did you replace the valve cover bolts too? Seems like the logical choice since there is rubber grommet on the bolt itself....
Im guessing its this part? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/11127841217/ |
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01-27-2017, 05:26 PM | #35 | |
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reference this for the part numbers, be sure to get the 2 different type of bolts. There's the longer one that sits in the corner and the others on the cover.
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02-05-2017, 10:10 PM | #36 |
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Just bought the valve cover bolts and spark tubes. There was a sale going on at FCP euro. Should arrive next week and hopefully be able to post a DIY.
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02-14-2017, 08:59 PM | #37 |
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[IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG]
Removed the plenum and intake... took mt 1.5hrs. the hardest was loosing the two rear passenger side itb clamps. I used this post: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1273927 to remove the plenum and airbox. Im also changing my spark plugs too with the valve cover gasket. First time doing this, and hopefully I'll be able to provide a DIY. Working the next three days so this weekend ill be free to complete it. |
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02-16-2017, 07:38 PM | #38 |
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Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr
Started working on the drivers side. I removed the coils and coil connectors already. And started undoing the bolts... the two rear bolts are a pain in the ass. I noticed the bolts doesn't completely come off even fully loosen. Is that normal or I have to really pull the valve cover bolts out? Also do you have to remove the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors? Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr [IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG] Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr |
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02-18-2017, 10:59 AM | #39 |
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[IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG]
I managed to get the valve cover gasket out!! Power tools really make the job a lot easier! Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr But I do have a queston.... On the shop manual it says to "Coat contact surfaces of joint (1) with Drei Bond 1209" Reference is in the link: http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...s65)/page_272/ So I just apply Drei Bond on the that specific area or around the whole surface? [IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG] [IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG] [IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG] |
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03-07-2017, 11:36 AM | #40 |
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had to redo the passenger side valve cover.... It was leaking pretty bad -_- Turns out the valve cover gasket was pinched and caused a tear.
[IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG] Ended up buying another gasket from the dealer. No more leaks!! The passenger side is the hardest because the gasket keeps on falling off while putting the cover on the engine. I guess its the angle of approach but you don't have much room the work with. I needed an extra hand to make sure the gasket aligned properly to the cover. |
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04-12-2017, 10:31 AM | #41 |
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Is there an official recommended parts list for this job? I'll be filming this job for my YouTube channel (/taylordjosh) will have this done before my next track day in 4 weeks.
So far it looks like: 1x Valve Cover Gasket Cyl 1-4: 11127838271 1x Valve Cover Gasket Cyl 5-8: 11127838272 8x Spark Plug Tubes: 11127835170 (recommended due to age) 2x Collar Screws M6: 11127841218 24x Collar Screws M6x37.5: 1127841217 All part numbers sourced from http://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showpa...diagId=11_4115
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04-13-2017, 07:50 AM | #43 |
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You only need Drei Bond at the splits, as shown in the above 2 pictures. There are other spots, but those are typical.
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