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09-28-2011, 12:35 PM | #23 | |
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Where can these products be found? |
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09-28-2011, 01:06 PM | #24 |
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Board sponsor DetailersDomain carries both lines, board sponsor DetailedImage carries Leatherique, and many other online sources carry one or the other.
There are also many how-to articles on Leatherique products, as well as many other sources that show how to best use leather care lines. |
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09-28-2011, 01:27 PM | #25 |
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Leatherique Prestine Clean and Rejuvenator Oil. Can't go wrong. Follow the directions on the website for them and you should be set.
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09-28-2011, 01:38 PM | #26 | |
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Magic Eraser is VERY abrasive. Somewhere there is a photo of the surface under a microscope. If you're using this on your seat, you're basically scraping off the top layer of dirt, along with the urethane coating as well. Check back in a few months, the leather will be just as dirty, except this time it might be tough/impossible to actually clean. |
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09-28-2011, 03:13 PM | #27 | |
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09-28-2011, 04:11 PM | #28 |
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No. A Proper leather cleaner shouldn't leave ANYTHING behind. The only thing you should put on your leather after a proper cleaning or when it is new is Leather Master Protection Cream, GTechniq L1, or LTT Leather Protect, or equivalent water-based sacrificial barriers.
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09-28-2011, 06:06 PM | #29 | |
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Great information! Thanks Mutt! |
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09-28-2011, 06:54 PM | #30 | |
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Have you ever used a steam cleaner to clean leather? I don't mean steaming the leather directly, but steaming through a MF towel. I tried this on the leather on my DD Accord, and the MF cloth ended up "lifting" a good amount of grime. And my car is not at all dirty. I did the seats and steering wheel. The steering wheel especially felt like it was brand new, when I was done. |
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09-28-2011, 07:59 PM | #32 | ||
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09-28-2011, 08:19 PM | #33 | |
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I have done it before, with success, without causing any type of damage. I don't use the method any longer however, especially because other less potentially dangerous techniques can work, and work safely. I don't want to worry about potential delamination (urethane coating separating), stretch marks, and spot damage on my car or anyone else's. Here's an example of recent work: '83 Ferrari Mondial with less than 20k miles and the leather already had some hardcore wear and "cracking" spots (these areas were where there is even more build up, which causes more wear and build up, which causes more wear and build up, etc). Especially look past the driver's seat and look at the passanger seat bottom area. I don't have a true "after" on the driver's seat but know it was much improved. Here's an after of the passanger seat which wasn't as bad, but was still quite bad for her miles, that was turned around to like-new condition: Here's a "near after" of the driver's seat as I was still applying an intermediate step: Mind you this was two and a half hours of work with two guys, but it shows what's possible. Products used were Leather Master Strong Cleaner, Vital, and Protection Cream. Strong Cleaner was used with a toothbrush (hence the 2.5 time frame to complete), so every square inch of surface was thoroughly cleaned with high attention to detail. For those more interested in Leatherique, here's a 50/50 shot of a Lincoln we did a couple years back with Rejuvenator Oil: We applied the oil after a light vacuum to remove debris (always light vacuum before leather cleaning), applied the oil by hand (while gear gloves to not make a mess of things) by rubbing it into the surface, allowed to sit a couple of hours, and then began removing it using diluted woolite (20:1). You can also remove with Prestine Clean. Doing work on vehicles that are in this shape takes much longer than leather care on a decently maintained car, so keep that in mind. On my own car, I give a thorough cleaning of the driver's seat one day, and then the passenger the other. This means I don't get too tired or worn out working on my car. I enjoy it more, and I'm more likely to keep up this type of work. As you see, you can effectively care for leather using low risk products: a key in detailing your pricey vehicle. Says the guy working for / in bed with Swissvax... didn't see that coming |
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09-28-2011, 08:37 PM | #34 | |
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Just thought I'd throw this out there. Richy H from one of the detailing forums has used a magic eraser on paint defects before, and says it leaves scratches comparable to 3000 grit sandpaper. So if anyone doesn't have a magic eraser on hand, now you have another leather cleaning option. |
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09-28-2011, 09:05 PM | #35 | |
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09-28-2011, 09:19 PM | #36 | |
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09-28-2011, 09:49 PM | #37 | |
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A little goes a long way and let me know if you have any questions |
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09-28-2011, 11:33 PM | #38 |
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I have also been frustrated with keeping my seats and steering wheel looking new and matte. I posted on my a-ha moment with the magic eraser some time ago here: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389645 . I really don't think this topic comes up anywhere close to monthly...
Anyway it really does work miracles. I basically conceded a long debate in that post about the product being abrasive, it is, but it is very mildly abrasive. Heck, rub a soft shoe sole across a stone surface for hundreds of years and it is abrasive as well. More or less everything is abrasive, it is a matter of scale. Although I have heard the horror stories of complete destruction of leather with the magic eraser I think using it infrequently and very gently won't result in any total tragedy. I've yet to see results from any product or technique that can make leather look as factory fresh as the magic eraser.
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09-28-2011, 11:57 PM | #39 | |
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It's not always about finding a "perfect" solution, but rather a more gentle and more effective method with better long term benefits. Everything is indeed somewhat abrasive, but that doesn't mean it's ok to use a Magic Eraser to clean leather nor a sanding disk to wash a car. |
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09-29-2011, 03:38 PM | #42 |
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09-29-2011, 08:44 PM | #43 | |
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Yes, the leather looks way too shiny after these treatments and nowhere close to OEM. Now granted improvements are marked but it does not get the look many desire.
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09-29-2011, 11:00 PM | #44 | |
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It's not very often I have to say this so bluntly: You obviously don't know what the hell you're talking about. Not only are you an expert on what 1983 Ferrari leather is supposed to look like in setting sunlight, you still argue that a Magic Eraser is perfectly fine to use for maintaining leather? A Magic Eraser on leather is like an ultra fine polish step applied by machine? More pics of the same leather shown on page two, but of a different angle in different lighting conditions, showing the difference made in removing years of build-up: Members of Bimmerpost - you're going to have to decide for yourself. I can help lead you to water, but I can't make you drink. Choose to follow the advice of Swamp2 if you'd like; no pictures, no proof, no leather care industry backing in his methods. You can also can choose to follow my advice: non edited photo proof, backed by leather care specialists as a proper way to keep your leather in outstanding shape over years. The decision is yours: Mr Clean versus Leather Master / LTT leather Care / Leatherique. |
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