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12-06-2010, 01:19 PM | #23 |
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I don't care if it's a Nissan. That sh*t is fast!
Anyway if I can afford one, I would purchase one in a heartbeat. No questions asked. It's so fast, that I have no intentions of modifying it at all. I'd be happy driving it in stock form. |
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12-06-2010, 01:20 PM | #24 | |
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Grossely incorrect. 599 GTO, GT2 RS, Noble 600, 458 Italia, pre-prod Lexus LFA (and 'ring edition), LP570-4 superleggera etc. all have proven to slaughter the GTR in head to head comparisons around a race track while many offering much superior, visceral, engaging and dynamic driving experience.
No doubt, GTR offers a lot of car and performance numbers to boot for the price that is tough to match and puts it at a much higher padestal, but let's not get carried away there. Quote:
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12-06-2010, 01:49 PM | #25 | |
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Adding the AMS Alpha 9 package (Worth $22,000) to the GTR and you would be up to par and may even start slaughtering some of the cars you mentioned above. Max you will spend with the '11 GTR along the AMS Alpha 9 package will be approximately $150,000 (Maybe even cheaper?). Anyway, that's $100,000 cheaper than the least expensive car above, which is the Porsche GT2 RS ($245,000 dealer markup and tax not included). |
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12-06-2010, 01:52 PM | #26 | |
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12-06-2010, 02:10 PM | #27 |
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from the pics i saw a while back, the new interior should be a big step up/
that is all that's holding me back, plus my dealer and his zero mod tolerance. id keep the m3 and get one, or sell the m and get a gt3 if they dont fix the interior.
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12-06-2010, 02:41 PM | #28 | |
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I guess someone will eventually jumps in to attack the statement on reliable issues. hehe~
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12-06-2010, 02:44 PM | #29 |
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2012 GTR will have much better interior.
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12-06-2010, 03:41 PM | #30 | |
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That is the worst car I have ever owned.
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12-06-2010, 06:08 PM | #31 |
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12-07-2010, 02:19 AM | #33 |
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^
Pretty much the only way to take off like that is to BE like that, i.e. AWD very advanced LC&TC. Without AWD some unreal power to weight ratios are required for those times. The other thing to consider is that 0-100 or 60-130 are both much more important metrics than 0-62. Of course the car is going to do very well in these but it won't stomp others as badly as it does in this particular type of race/stat.
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E92 M3 | Space Gray on Fox Red | M-DCT | CF Roof | RAC RG63 Wheels | Brembo 380mm BBK | | Vorsteiner Ti Exhaust | Matte Black Grilles/Side Gills/Rear Emblem/Mirrors | | Alekshop Back up Camera | GP Thunders | BMW Aluminum Pedals | Elite Angels | | XPEL Full Front Wrap | Hardwired V1 | Interior Xenon Light Kit | |
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12-07-2010, 02:20 AM | #34 |
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BAM!!!! TURBO S - 2.6 sec from 0 to 60
http://www.roadandtrack.com/var/ezfl...059e7c3413.pdf Road and Track tested the 2011 911 Turbo S. 0-60 in 2.6 sec 0-100 in 6.3 sec 10.7 @ 128.9 1/4 mile
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12-07-2010, 08:35 AM | #35 |
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i have em both and love em both for totally different reasons. both awesome cars. but yea i agree to much cockyness on these bmw boards. still love u guys tho!
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12-14-2010, 04:34 PM | #36 | |
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12-16-2010, 04:00 AM | #37 | |
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haha Just messing with ya
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12-16-2010, 12:11 PM | #38 | |
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12-16-2010, 03:46 PM | #39 | |
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Now. Seriously, and without rancor (I hope), just what is a "true" 0-60 time? Should the clocks start after the car has rolled for a foot? Some other distance? Should they start when the driver clicks a stop watch? When he or she begins releasing the clutch or brake? When the car begins to move? Seriously, what is a true 0-60 time? I certainly don't know, and therefore solicit opinions. |
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12-16-2010, 04:00 PM | #40 | |
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Edmunds Insideline does true 0-60 acceleration measurements. 0 to 60 or whatever should be true dead stop accelerating. The 1' foot roll is only meant for the quarter mile and magazines that use it are being lazy and dishonest when measuring 0-whatever. I have a Racelogic Performancebox (http://www.vboxusa.com/performancedr...ormancebox.php) and a 1' rollout makes a big difference in acceleration times(about .2-.3 seconds with my X6M and GTR to 60)
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12-16-2010, 04:09 PM | #41 | |
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As far as I know, Nissan has never claimed acceleration capable of staying with the big dogs. It's just around a track that they get uppity. With good reason, obviously. Bruce |
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12-16-2010, 04:33 PM | #42 | |
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On the other hand, I'd say that the clocks should start when the driver tells the car to go via either clutch or brake release. That way, the lazyness in the clutch actuator mechanism (or brake release) plus driveline lash and tire windup are taken into account, as they should be, in my opinion. That's another defendable position (as I hope you can see). Meanhwile, in the Americas, one foot of rollout is how it's done, and that's equally allright with me. Just compare apples to apples, and everything is fine. Of course, 0-60 times are almost completely immaterial, in my opinion. In a race to 60, just because you do it in 4.9 seconds and the other guy does it in 5.1 doesn't mean you're ahead at the time. It just means you're going faster than the other guy when you hit 60. You may be behind and catching up, even with and about to begin pulling away, or ahead and moving out further. No way to tell. Bruce PS - When you begin the clocks at the time the driver signals go via clutch release or brake release, most street cars will take closer to five tenths to go that one foot. Hence the "leaving on the last yellow" strategy common at the drag strip. |
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12-16-2010, 04:38 PM | #43 |
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12-16-2010, 04:40 PM | #44 |
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Bruce, that's fine too but I think zero should mean zero and the measurement should only be about what the car does not the drivers reflexes.
I trust magazines that I can duplicate their acceleration numbers (ie Edmunds). I have never been able hit Car and Driver times.
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