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01-04-2019, 12:58 PM | #23 |
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Had this problem on a 08' 535xi. Went through dealer an indy (about 7 times) with me telling them I must have a bad ground somewhere - won't start after sitting a bit. After I switched out two batteries (the massive $500 ones), 3 alternators, battery cable replacement, and tons hours of f'n around in the engine bay testing and looking, (both shops super reputable in the West Chester PA area), I sent this problem back to the dealer with the note that this is 100% a ground issue and to check every ground on the car (I didn't have access to a spot to work under the car at the time.) They found the ground strap under the vehicle, even though it looked great was not sending the correct ohms that the systems needed and creating a bleed in the car through - if I remember correctly the comfort access system. - Replace those old grounds.
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01-09-2019, 02:08 AM | #24 | |
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Someone already said so. Grounding is important, but not all groundings are the same. When prepping a car for ham radio one of the first thing you do is grounding the exhaust in few places and also the hood. For electrical interferences you use flat copper mash type strap. For grounding the starter type you use a thick copper style strap. |
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01-10-2019, 01:00 PM | #25 |
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Not really cause most aftermarket exhausts don't even have them. The dealer cut mine off when they noticed it was just hanging by the exhaust.
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01-10-2019, 01:02 PM | #26 | |
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01-10-2019, 01:04 PM | #27 |
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I'm not sure why but they snipped it on the end where it was mounted on to the exhaust.
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01-11-2019, 12:21 AM | #29 | ||
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01-11-2019, 03:22 PM | #31 | |
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Don't use a very stiff heatshield. You can easily buy a very thin one which won't change much of the flexibility characteristics. Also to mention, don't fully seal it. When I meant heat shielding it, I meant using a slightly oversized one which kind of protects it from the elements. The better option is to use a different cable completely, one from an audio store which has gold contacts and slightly over length. Sorry but the OEM ground cables don't even last 40k miles in some cases. My exhaust ones were cut off after 25k miles.
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04-08-2020, 05:59 PM | #32 |
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Sorry to hijack...my car will periodically not start and the brake pedal gets so stiff you can't depress it, in my opinion leading the car to not start since it doesn't register the brake pedal being pushed. I bought a new brake vacuum line and sensor that I'll install this weekend but could it be the starter ground? Can't say I've ever pushed the start button 10 times but usually when it doesn't start I just have to let it sit and try again in 30 minutes.
The other symptoms are similar, car will come on and everything is normal but no cranking from the starter. |
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04-08-2020, 07:41 PM | #33 | |
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04-08-2020, 08:51 PM | #34 |
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01-19-2021, 11:18 AM | #35 |
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I have been getting intermittent implausible value tstat sensor codes on known good sensors, especially at startup, and idle charging voltage was a little bit low. Time will tell on the codes, but idle voltage went up a few tenths. I'm wondering if a voltage drop during cranking was causing some wacky readings during startup.
Mine didn't fall apart in my hands when it came off or anything, but there were several broken wires in a few of the braids, and it looked a lot like OP's, my car has 133,000 miles and is almost 13 years old.
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05-04-2021, 09:50 PM | #36 |
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I went through the nightmare of replacing my starter on my '08 335xi only to figure out the ground strap was the problem. I had zero symptoms leading up to no-crank and no-start one morning. I had a few codes: A0B4, A0C1, A0C2, 2E97, 2E7C. Since my battery had charge and jump-starts didn't work, I figured the starter motor went bad after 90k miles. After replacing the starter, you could hear the starter solenoid click, but still no crank. I was about to give up and tow it to a shop when it dawned on me that my ground wire was pretty green and corroded and possibly the issue. To test the theory, I connected a jumper cable from where the ground cable connected to the frame and ran it straight to the starter. Just like that it started!
Lesson learned: keep it simple and check your grounds before taking everything apart lol. Check out what my ground cable looked like. It was green and splitting on the end that connected to the engine side. |
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05-17-2021, 03:16 PM | #38 | |
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04-08-2022, 08:13 AM | #39 |
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Just ran into this issue after picking up lunch, car (2012MY 82,000 miles) wouldn’t even crank, electrical was fine. Had to get it towed to many house.
Replaced the nearly 10 year old battery and still no cranking. Read about grounding wires and the starter, but thought I’d take a set of jump cables and connect it from the engine lift point to a ground point under the hood and car started up fine. Now looking around for which grounding cable is broken |
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04-11-2022, 10:50 AM | #40 |
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Quick question does anyone know the length (approx.) of the strap, off the top of their head. Looks to be about 10-12" long, max, from the pics.
TIA -Mark in St. Louis |
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04-12-2022, 07:44 AM | #41 |
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I think I still have my old one around. I'll check if I didn't throw it away. I built my own using 0 gauge wire and it's much sturdier and resilient than the oem.
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04-12-2022, 09:18 AM | #42 | |
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Decent OE type ground straps are readily available from Standard and AC Delco...so I just grabbed one of those. I gotta throw it up on the lift anyways, and put the summers back on..so I'll know for sure, then. Thanks, -Mark |
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06-09-2022, 05:53 AM | #43 |
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I'm just gonna jump in here and give my resolution to my starting issue just in case anyone might also have the same. I initially thought it was ground strap and after replacing the main one I still had starting issues. I could jump the car with a mobile battery pack and it would fire up every time nice and quick, but of course I was attaching the battery under the hood at the jump location.
So that made me think my issue was somewhere between the battery and front of the car. Well, I removed the battery and noticed a bit of rust along the bottom of the tray, and the main cable that attaches to the terminal (see photo) at the front end of the compartment was rusted pretty bad. When I reached down to check it the rusted nut fell apart. I cleaned up the connector, cut off the rusted lug and re-crimped a new copper lug onto the cable. So far it's been a month or so and everything is great. Nice quick starts and no more jumping. I'll update here if anything changes. |
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