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08-17-2020, 06:58 AM | #23 | |
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11-08-2020, 09:13 PM | #24 |
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I did this job today and it was VERY difficult to get the new o-ring back on and I had the complete driveshaft, guibo and transmission mount all off.
My center support bearing was completely shot and torn about 80% of the way around so while everything was out I decided to change the o-ring. I had all kinds of crap up there that came out when cleaning it but even with my head up in there I still couldn't actually see much of anything other than the bolt that holds everything together. Getting the old o-ring off was just a little difficult but not terrible but getting the new one on was extremely difficult. You can only have one hand in there, can't see anything and getting it over the little arm where the screw goes took a long time. The replacement gasket I got from the BMW dealer was not directional and there definitely was not a thicker or taller side - it was the same both ways so I hope it is in there correctly. It was also black where the one that came out was red. I had the transmission brace fully off and the transmission didn't tilt down much, if any, so maybe one of my supercharger parts was blocking/holding everything from tilting back - probably the hose from the intercooler part to the manifold. With the transmission out it would take 5 minutes and I would have been able to do the side cover gasket at the same time so that is what I would do if I had to do it again. I am very good at working on cars and had it on a lift and every tool I could possibly need available and still had a tough time - this isn't for the faint of heart. The rest of the driveshaft, flexdisc, center bearing, etc. was pretty easy. I had planned on doing the bottom pan and fluid too but the o-ring took so long I didn't feel like doing any more so I put everything back together and will change the pan at a later date (that is much easier to get to - don't have to remove much at all). Last edited by WayneM3; 11-08-2020 at 09:22 PM.. Reason: Added information |
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11-11-2020, 12:42 AM | #25 |
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reading these latest posts makes me glad the shop I go to did it without any complaints. I asked them if it was difficult... they basically said it wasn't a problem at all!
We were doing trans + diff + subframe mounts, as well as the guibo at the same time, so maybe that made it easier |
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11-11-2020, 08:22 PM | #26 | |
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11-12-2020, 01:04 PM | #27 |
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Dry so far! There was a tiny little bit of fluid that looked like it came from that mechatronics O-ring. Otherwise the slon bottom and side pans seem to be doing well.
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12-31-2020, 05:01 PM | #28 |
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I'm doing rod bearings right now (well over the course of the next two to three weeks) and discovered leaking from this top O-ring. Does the fact that I have everything disassembled right now for the rod bearings - engine is suspended, subframe about to come off, etc., help me in any way to access this top mechatronics O-Ring? Or am I better off to finish the rod bearing job, put subframe back on, then follow the original post instructions?
PS. huge thanks to this thread - seems like it could save me hundred$ in avoiding a fluid refill and side/bottom gasket swaps. |
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01-13-2021, 07:50 PM | #30 |
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@Theodore and anyone else did this, when you re installed the drive shaft to DCT output shaft, did you have to do any preload on the flange?
I'm having a leak on my output shaft and tempted to drop the tranny and do all 3 seals (top, side, and side) at the same time. Thanks
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01-13-2021, 10:45 PM | #31 | |
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01-14-2021, 12:50 AM | #32 |
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Sorry, I probably said it wrong. I meant Item #3 Flange Nut. I guess I could still mark the nut and flange together for reference when you put it back together?
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01-18-2021, 11:25 AM | #33 | |
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11-01-2022, 03:19 PM | #35 |
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Oldie but goodie.. for newbies.
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04-12-2023, 01:16 PM | #36 |
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Talked to my local performance shop and they mentioned that you need to pull a release mechanism from inside the DCT itself (pull off lower oil pan) to release the mechatronics sealing sleeve. Has anyone heard about this process? They made it sound risky pulling the top sleeve out to replace the o-ring without using this release as it could damage the internal connections? I'm a pretty handy DIY but don't have a ton of time for an intense DIY. (I have a lift which helps).
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04-16-2023, 11:41 AM | #37 | |
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The DCT in this model has a more maintenance friendly design with the external screw and bracket. What the shop told you is true for many DCT transmissions used by BMW as the mechatronics sleeve is normally locked in place by an internal connection and released from inside the DCT usually by removing the lower DCT pan, but for the E9X M3 it is not true. For this DCT it is held in place by the external screw shown in the photos above. This is a difficult DIY and you need very long arms to reach it if you don't remove the transmission or the engine to gain better access. I would maybe try to find a shop that is more knowledgeable about this job specifically for the E9X M3 so they give you an appropriate repair quote.
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05-09-2024, 11:08 PM | #38 |
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Actually, it's really easy to do this with the DCT hanging a bit you have enough room if you use a 1/4 ratchet with the correct bit... I did mine this way and it only takes about 10 minutes.
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06-23-2024, 04:37 PM | #40 |
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Massive thanks OP, just completed this on my 335i DCT. It was a pain in the arse but do-able, I also lowered the front sub frame a little to get even more room above the trans to work. I'd defo go through it again rather than take it somewhere to be done.
spammysammich I think the mechatronics gasket is do able without removing the trans, by lowering the front subframe a bit, you could probably get it to tilt a bit either way based on how you lower the subframe. I found a shop in Bristol UK that says they do the right side mechatronics gasket without removing the trans, they do how ever remove the trans to do the O-Ring from the OP. They call it their stage 2 service, check out their video on youtube You can see that they have the cover off whilst trans still in around 2 minutes 10 seconds. That is where I got the idea to also lower the subframe to give some extra room. |
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07-17-2024, 12:15 AM | #41 |
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I removed the drive shaft, transmission cross member, and exhaust and was able to tilt the trans enough to where I could remove all the hardware for the side pan and slip it out. It does help if you have medium sized hands for sure though because it does get tight towards the top of the trans tunnel. A long 1/4 ratchet and good lighting will be your best friend to get this done. I also replaced the mechatronics O-ring which is probably the hardest thing to do without dropping the trans. All this was done in the evening after work for two days so about 4-5 hours total time granted I did it all on the floor on my back.. here's some pics of the before and after.
Last edited by active_m; 07-17-2024 at 12:41 AM.. Reason: added images |
08-14-2024, 10:55 AM | #42 |
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Wow you all did this with the trans in the car. I took the transmissions out to change the gasket. Did the mechatronics cover and oil pan at the same time. I wouldn't image doing this on jack stands with the trans in. Pulling the trans was easy except for the 2 bolts on the 10 and 11 oclock positions due to the heat sink for the dct oil cooler.
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08-14-2024, 06:17 PM | #43 |
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I was talking to my mech the other day and strange thing is we rarely see this leaking mechatronic seal issue here in Malaysia. My own DCT mechatronic seal was dry as a bone, 100k miles car.
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08-14-2024, 08:24 PM | #44 |
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You sure that isn’t due to sample size? How many E9X M3 are there in Malaysia? Previous owner said mine was leaking at around 80k miles and took care of it.
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