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02-28-2011, 09:44 AM | #23 | |
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I already have a vacuum bleeder so dont wanna go out and blow more money but if it is better may have to invest. Even though the fluid filter is so impermeable, if you vacuum very slowly with nipple loosened just enough for fluid to flow and keep fluid topped everything will be fine. elp_jc, not sure what you meant by when you said "the line has air in it anyway"?
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02-28-2011, 12:00 PM | #24 | |
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To use the bleeder's valve as a substitute for the nipple valve ; it's not designed for that. But maybe I understood you wrong too . Take care. |
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10-23-2015, 04:28 PM | #25 | |
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10-29-2015, 08:17 PM | #26 |
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It pushes fluid through quickly and the tap point in the reservoir is pretty high so don't go for long without topping up again. You actually need to fill the reservoir itself. I started pushing air through the clutch and it went soft. But using the motive to push fluid through the clutch line again and pumping the clutch pedal 30 or more times restored the pedal. At that point I thought I'd try bleeding it the manual way. I'm pretty sure the motive would work if you didn't let the clutch line run dry.
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10-29-2015, 11:29 PM | #27 | |
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01-13-2016, 09:18 PM | #28 |
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Just bled the brakes today using the Motiv pressure bleeder but for some reason I couldn't get the clutch to bleed :, had it pressurized close to 20psi. I ended up doing the manual method.
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01-22-2016, 03:01 PM | #30 |
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How do you open and close the valve doing it by hand? It was such a pain for me to reach the clutch bleed valve using a socket and some u-joints. What's a better tool for this?
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01-22-2023, 02:31 PM | #31 |
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Power bleeding worked well for me
After reading various threads for hours, and getting fairly nervous from all the folks who messed up their clutch bleed, mine went off without a hitch. I have an e92 328i, so it's possible there are some differences between that and an M3, but I suspect not. I also have an M2 and I'm planning to use this same approach in the future.
After bleeding my brakes, I continued on and did the clutch following this process:
A few thoughts: The fluid flowed right through for me, and I had zero issues with air bubbles. I did check numerous times that the brake fluid and power bleeder reservoirs were full. I also tapped the brake fluid reservoir quite a bit to get air bubbles out. I didn't have any issues getting to the bleeder valve on the side of the transmission with an 11mm box wrench. I suspect that pressing the clutch pedal (especially multiple times) just moves too much fluid too fast, and that might be why the reservoir gets drained leading to air bubbles. IMO power bleeding is the simplest and safest approach. I did the whole thing in less than 15 minutes. My clutch had been feeling a bit "juddery" lately, and after the fluid flush it feels perfect again.
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2017 F87 M2: MGM, 6MT, AA Tune, Eibach Pro-Kit, Fabspeed Catted Downpipe, Evolution Racewerks FMIC+Chargepipe, Autosolutions SSK, CDV Delete, Vorshlag Plates, PFC-08 pads, Apex EC-7 18x9.5"
2013 E92 328i M-Sport: BSM, 6MT, 3IM+AA Tune, BMW PE, M3 control arms, Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit, BMW SSK, CDV Delete, Apex EC-7 18x9" |
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05-11-2024, 07:40 PM | #32 |
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how to get the air out
So here I am again, doing my fifth clutch fluid flush over the past few years using a Motive Pressure Bleeder. The past 4 times went beautifully, but today I somehow messed up and got air in the lines. A little ways into the flush I suddenly saw a BUNCH of air bubbles coming through my catchcan tube. I went up to the clutch pedal and as it sank to the floor, so did my stomach. I'm pretty sure it happened because I left the slave bleeder valve open too long, and the clutch fluid reservoir went dry, even though I had the pressure bleeder filled and pressurizing the brake/clutch fluid reservoir. So moral of the story is: when you're bleeding with a pressure bleeder, you should still probably only open the bleeder valve for max 10 seconds at a time; then pause to let the clutch partition refill and repeat as needed.
Anyway to solve my predicament I was expecting to spend HOURS based on what I'd read from past posts about this problem. Thankfully I got it fixed in less than 20 minutes all by myself. This was my process: 1) Top off the brake fluid reservoir 2) Hook up the pressure bleeder (with fluid in it) 3) Start pressing the clutch pedal. Wait 5 seconds between each push to let the clutch partition refill. Press about 15x and watch the bubbles come up the pressure bleeder tube 4) Go under the car and open the slave bleeder valve for 5 seconds and watch the bubbles come out 5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the pedal feels firm again. I did about 4 cycles, and after that my pedal felt 100%. YMMV.
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2017 F87 M2: MGM, 6MT, AA Tune, Eibach Pro-Kit, Fabspeed Catted Downpipe, Evolution Racewerks FMIC+Chargepipe, Autosolutions SSK, CDV Delete, Vorshlag Plates, PFC-08 pads, Apex EC-7 18x9.5"
2013 E92 328i M-Sport: BSM, 6MT, 3IM+AA Tune, BMW PE, M3 control arms, Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit, BMW SSK, CDV Delete, Apex EC-7 18x9" |
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