JRZ RS1 Nitrogen Pressure?

Move Over · 08-08-2016, 08:43 PM

If anyone that sees this wants my Nitrogen setup (Penske shock filling tool, tank, regulator, hose and chuck), I'll be selling shortly. I jumped down a step to a simpler setup.

dogbone · 08-12-2016, 08:56 AM

I have JRZ RS Pros. And I built my own nitrogen filling rig, so it was easy to experiment with different psi settings.

I don't know how the remote reservoirs of the RS Pros change the feel compared to RS1's, but I settled on liking 300 psi for the nitrogen. To me, it feels great. The car resists leaning a little better without putting in a higher spring rate.

People always thought 300 psi would give a rough ride. In fact, a race shop owner sought me out at the track because he had heard I run 300 psi and thought it was too high. I took him out on track and he was blown away with how smooth the car was. He got out of the car convinced nothing needed to be changed.

I check my nitrogen pressure after about 6-8 track days. JRZ recommended checking it on a fairly regular basis. I can say in 4 years of ownership I've never leaked any nitrogen. I had the dampers rebuilt at 30k miles. According to that shop who did the rebuild, they still looked great on the inside and could have easily gone another season before rebuilding.

Richbot · 08-17-2016, 08:37 AM

I have no idea what people are talking about when they say running near the topend of the pressure range on remote dampers will make the car ride worse. You're talking about a few lb/in difference and it matters most in low-speed long-stroke situations, not the little hits and dips where "ride quality" seems to live, because it's not being compressed much in short strokes

Running them that high will wear the seals faster and introduce some additional seal drag but who cares if the car/driver combo is faster with it set up like that

Echo your experience on no leaks with my MCS setup over 3 years and many many many thousands of street miles. There is only a handful of CC's of nitrogen in there, any leakage at all will leak the canister down quickly, so either you have a leak and need a rebuild, or you don't

08-08-2016, 08:43 PM	#23
Move Over Colonel 1269 Rep 2,490 Posts Drives: M3 6MT Join Date: May 2015 Location: Peninsula iTrader: (9)	If anyone that sees this wants my Nitrogen setup (Penske shock filling tool, tank, regulator, hose and chuck), I'll be selling shortly. I jumped down a step to a simpler setup. __________________ 2010 E92 M3 DCT
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-12-2016, 08:56 AM	#24
dogbone Colonel 5380 Rep 2,813 Posts Drives: '09 E90 M3 - IB Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: 93 million miles from the Sun iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 BMW E92 M3 [0.00] 2009 BMW E90 M3 [0.00]	I have JRZ RS Pros. And I built my own nitrogen filling rig, so it was easy to experiment with different psi settings. I don't know how the remote reservoirs of the RS Pros change the feel compared to RS1's, but I settled on liking 300 psi for the nitrogen. To me, it feels great. The car resists leaning a little better without putting in a higher spring rate. People always thought 300 psi would give a rough ride. In fact, a race shop owner sought me out at the track because he had heard I run 300 psi and thought it was too high. I took him out on track and he was blown away with how smooth the car was. He got out of the car convinced nothing needed to be changed. I check my nitrogen pressure after about 6-8 track days. JRZ recommended checking it on a fairly regular basis. I can say in 4 years of ownership I've never leaked any nitrogen. I had the dampers rebuilt at 30k miles. According to that shop who did the rebuild, they still looked great on the inside and could have easily gone another season before rebuilding.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-17-2016, 08:37 AM	#25
Richbot Major General 2768 Rep 5,483 Posts Drives: Jerez Black E90 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: STL iTrader: (5)	I have no idea what people are talking about when they say running near the topend of the pressure range on remote dampers will make the car ride worse. You're talking about a few lb/in difference and it matters most in low-speed long-stroke situations, not the little hits and dips where "ride quality" seems to live, because it's not being compressed much in short strokes Running them that high will wear the seals faster and introduce some additional seal drag but who cares if the car/driver combo is faster with it set up like that Echo your experience on no leaks with my MCS setup over 3 years and many many many thousands of street miles. There is only a handful of CC's of nitrogen in there, any leakage at all will leak the canister down quickly, so either you have a leak and need a rebuild, or you don't __________________
	Appreciate 0 Quote