My E90 M3 Dedicated Track build (with pix!)

[slcook54]

Are the upgrading the blower in any way? I'm assuming some of the components have been improved over the past decade?

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by slcook54

Are the upgrading the blower in any way? I'm assuming some of the components have been improved over the past decade?

I don’t know. It’s a rebuild. I just assumed it’s the same I had before but new components.

[tlrid3r]

I have search your thread a bunch but unable to find it. The question is, can you still have function to the M button if you remove iDrive nav. I'm considering to remove the iDrive and radio, is the M button even useful. I don't track with any traction control and my car is manual. So M button only changes the steering servotronic and pedal ratio, but I keep the pedal setting on normal.

Can you shine some light for me on this.

Thanks in advance

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

I have search your thread a bunch but unable to find it. The question is, can you still have function to the M button if you remove iDrive nav. I'm considering to remove the iDrive and radio, is the M button even useful. I don't track with any traction control and my car is manual. So M button only changes the steering servotronic and pedal ratio, but I keep the pedal setting on normal.

Can you shine some light for me on this.

Thanks in advance

yes, you can. i just removed the radio, idrive screen, and idrive controller. everything works like i set it no problem.
you do have to connect the hvac controller or the efan will act weird.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

I have search your thread a bunch but unable to find it. The question is, can you still have function to the M button if you remove iDrive nav. I'm considering to remove the iDrive and radio, is the M button even useful. I don't track with any traction control and my car is manual. So M button only changes the steering servotronic and pedal ratio, but I keep the pedal setting on normal.

Can you shine some light for me on this.

Thanks in advance

Yes, the M button still works when the idriive/screen, radio and other electronics are removed.

The 3 main side effects I’ve seen that occur with so many modules missing:
-you cannot change the M button settings once the screen is gone. So, whatever those parameters are set to, that’s what you’re stuck with. I’ve always wondered if you hook the screen back up, if it would still work and you could alter the settings…..never tried it, but I still do have the screen in my garage.

-trying to code the car, like removing dash warnings about air bags, seat belts, TPMS, etc becomes difficult/impossible with so many modules missing.

-some scanner tools become frustrating to use because they don’t know how to deal with so many modules missing, so scans take a long time. I think ISTA is one that gets hung up and takes like 30 minutes. I guess it keeps trying to contact the missing module over and over and over before moving on. The Launch X431 scanner tool I have doesn’t have that problem. Scans the whole car in just a couple minutes. I learned about Launch from StripclubDJ at EAS. I lent my Launch to my shop in CO so he could try it. He’s totally digging it. Has used it on several brands of cars. What’s particularly nice about it is that it’s an Android device, so it can be internet enabled. So when you find codes, aside from telling you what the code is, it gives you a “Code Search” button. You click that and it searches the internet with its built in web browser for you to find more about what that code is. Very cool.

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

yes, you can. i just removed the radio, idrive screen, and idrive controller. everything works like i set it no problem.
you do have to connect the hvac controller or the efan will act weird.

I'll retain all hvac items below the NAV screen. is that what you mean?

Originally Posted by dogbone

Yes, the M button still works when the idriive/screen, radio and other electronics are removed.

The 3 main side effects I’ve seen that occur with so many modules missing:
-you cannot change the M button settings once the screen is gone. So, whatever those parameters are set to, that’s what you’re stuck with. I’ve always wondered if you hook the screen back up, if it would still work and you could alter the settings…..never tried it, but I still do have the screen in my garage.

-trying to code the car, like removing dash warnings about air bags, seat belts, TPMS, etc becomes difficult/impossible with so many modules missing.

-some scanner tools become frustrating to use because they don’t know how to deal with so many modules missing, so scans take a long time. I think ISTA is one that gets hung up and takes like 30 minutes. I guess it keeps trying to contact the missing module over and over and over before moving on. The Launch X431 scanner tool I have doesn’t have that problem. Scans the whole car in just a couple minutes. I learned about Launch from StripclubDJ at EAS. I lent my Launch to my shop in CO so he could try it. He’s totally digging it. Has used it on several brands of cars. What’s particularly nice about it is that it’s an Android device, so it can be internet enabled. So when you find codes, aside from telling you what the code is, it gives you a “Code Search” button. You click that and it searches the internet with its built in web browser for you to find more about what that code is. Very cool.

Thanks for all the response, so this will work for me, because I never change the setting, it stays how I like it. I have a foxwell scan-tool I'll remove everything and test the tool. I'll report back.

thanks again

[dogbone]

After a large round of maintenance, I went to High Plains Raceway to test the car on Monday.

What was done to the car:
-Vortech blower was completely rebuilt. Literally everything inside it replaced. All good.

-Blower belt replaced.

-Three lines in the DCT system were replaced. And the side cover replaced. All good.

-A line in the power steering system was replaced. All good.

-The power steering reservoir was replaced. All good.

-We tried to remedy the engine oil leaking from the filler cap......still leaking.....such an annoying issue.....I've had two shops look at it. I've bought a new cap....what the heck.....

-Replaced spark plugs.

-The kill switch is in. It's not just a battery kill switch----it's a full kill switch that cuts power to the spark plugs and fuel pump and cuts the negative/ground. It was quite the process to install it. In my second session, the car lost all power and the whole dash went black. After some investigation, I found that a crimp on a positive wire to the kill switch was bad and the cable was loose. Fixed the crimp and the car ran fine after that. So, now I have a power button on my dash and there's a kill button on the outside of the car on the rear quarter panel on the driver side.






Stock battery is still in the car, and I believe it will stay there for the East Coast trip. I just got word today that the new VoltPhreaks battery is on the way, but I don't think I have time to get it in the car.....I would want to test that anyway....

Looking forward to heading East on Saturday!

[roastbeef]

what was your experience with voltphreaks to get a new battery? are they getting parts again?

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

what was your experience with voltphreaks to get a new battery? are they getting parts again?

My original battery from VoltPhreaks was a VPR-P6. They said they couldn't make that one due to supply chain issues. I'm assuming that's still the case.

The battery that they still can produce is the bigger battery---the VPH1200. They offered it to me at a significant discount as a quasi-warranty. So, I decided to go that route.

The tech support is friendly, but they do seem to take awhile to respond. And I could only reach them via email.

I'm curious to see if the VPH1200 works as seamlessly as the stock battery, but I think I won't know until after the East Coast trip. If it arrives before I leave, I may bring it with me. But I highly doubt I will experiment with trying to install it on the trip.

[dogbone]

Let's file this one under: I have always wondered----I guess I'll find out soon!

I have contacted Frisby Tire about getting another set of DH. I guess this is the worst time of year to order these tires because all the teams are ordering DH for all the race series coming up. Frisby said they are holding DH stock back for racing only.....no testing.....

Buuuuut they are willing to sell me a set of DM (Medium compound). haha ok.

For a long time I've wondered if DM is faster than DH, or if they just heat up faster. There is literally NO information out there about that. So, I guess I'll get to find out for myself!

I'm trying to strategize when I would run the DMs. Right now, I think I'll try them for the first time at VIR. We'll see.

[///Mobbin]

Never even heard of a DM, interesting.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Never even heard of a DM, interesting.

DM is not common, at least not in the USA. Years ago, Frisby Tire didn’t even stock them at all—special order only that took like 6-8 weeks to get from Europe. But in the last couple years, they started having a few sets around.

In 10 years of tracking, I’ve only seen 2 cars with them.

When you ask Frisby about them, they don’t offer any info on them. Years ago, on a phone call with Frisby, I was asking about DM, the guy thought I was better off with DH than DM because the DH stock was fresher according to him—-basically saying that DH are never more than 6 months old when you buy them, but DM might be older—-like up to 18 months old because they weren’t as popular. Is that still true today? Don’t know.

A few years ago, I searched the net to see if anyone was talking about DMs. I could only find the mildest mention of them in some Porsche forums. Haven’t looked recently.

Ultimately, I just gave up and settled on running DH. I figured that if DM were so much faster, someone would have figured that out by now and the word would get out. As a comparison, in Michelin-land, the S8 Medium compound is quite different and faster than the S9 Hard compound.

Anyway, I gotta say, I’m very curious now. Correction—-I’ve been curious about it for a long time, but never was willing to spend the $$$$ to experiment. But now that DH is not avaIlable to me, I’d rather try something new and go for DM, instead of just going for something familiar like an A7.

[roastbeef]

Does that mean a DS exists?

[Kelse92]

The DH’s have new third letters attached to them now. DHB, DHE, DHF are all available versions/revisions of the DH now. The B’s were for British touring cars originally, but have been brought to the US because of sidewall failures on the regular DH’s. I don’t think they’re producing the regular DH’s anymore, you might want to look for the other versions. I think DHF is the newest.

[e36clubracer]

If you're experimenting with new tires... What about trying Michelin slicks? Those seem available at the moment at least. Soft, medium, and hard compound options. Similar price to the Pirellis too.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by e36clubracer

If you're experimenting with new tires... What about trying Michelin slicks? Those seem available at the moment at least. Soft, medium, and hard compound options. Similar price to the Pirellis too.

If you're asking me, I've mentioned before that the sizing of Michelin is funky for my car.

27 (270) is narrow. I've run 27 in S9 hard. It's narrow on a 10.5" rim.

30 is fat. I've never sized one in person, but the spec makes it look fat....so fat I may not be able to run it up front. Which means I could probably put it in the rear, but then I have a bicycle tire 27 in the front.......not my favorite scenario.

I was just talking to someone yesterday saying I need to get one scrub 30/65/18 michelin in so I can size it.

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by dogbone

I was just talking to someone yesterday saying I need to get one scrub 30/65/18 michelin in so I can size it.

https://usedracingtires.com/collecti...michelin-slick
or
https://usedracingtires.com/collecti...k-s8m-compound
PS:
If needed: https://michelinracingusa.com/race-t...talog-2021.pdf

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by DrFerry

https://usedracingtires.com/collecti...michelin-slick
or
https://usedracingtires.com/collecti...k-s8m-compound
PS:
If needed: https://michelinracingusa.com/race-t...talog-2021.pdf

Thanks for the heads up!

It may be awhile before I can dig into this topic. The rig is leaving for the East Coast tomorrow and it may be staying there longer than I originally thought. Might leave it until May to do some TT.

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by dogbone

Thanks for the heads up! It may be awhile before I can dig into this topic. The rig is leaving for the East Coast tomorrow and it may be staying there longer than I originally thought. Might leave it until May to do some TT.

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

I found the medium compound 270 Mich to be about the same pace as the 305 DH

Just something to keep in mind above if (or when) conducting a T&T. Might want to try a couple of sizes and/or different compounds, pressures and alignment (camber and caster). It's not unusual to have to shift the balance with the anti-roll bars when switching tire solutions.

[e36clubracer]

Originally Posted by dogbone

If you're asking me, I've mentioned before that the sizing of Michelin is funky for my car.

27 (270) is narrow. I've run 27 in S9 hard. It's narrow on a 10.5" rim.

30 is fat. I've never sized one in person, but the spec makes it look fat....so fat I may not be able to run it up front. Which means I could probably put it in the rear, but then I have a bicycle tire 27 in the front.......not my favorite scenario.

I was just talking to someone yesterday saying I need to get one scrub 30/65/18 michelin in so I can size it.

Ahh yes I forgot the Pirellis run a little narrow. Yeah I've been looking at the Michelin's and their 305/65 mostly lines up with a 315 hoosier which we know fits on our race car. Plus yes on a 10.5" rim you are a little narrow on the wheel too. Maybe you gotta ditch the Titans... and go to a 18x11...

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

The DH’s have new third letters attached to them now. DHB, DHE, DHF are all available versions/revisions of the DH now. The B’s were for British touring cars originally, but have been brought to the US because of sidewall failures on the regular DH’s. I don’t think they’re producing the regular DH’s anymore, you might want to look for the other versions. I think DHF is the newest.

I’ve driven DH, DHA, DHB, DHC, DHDII. Never seen DHE or DHF.

I don’t feel anything different in the rubber of any of the tires. If there’s construction differences, I’m not sensitive enough to understand what that feels like.

[Kelse92]

I think the E is an endurance compound but the rest are all pretty much the same with slightly different sidewall construction.