Track forum general chit chat.

[hayes180]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Do you flip the tires left<->right at any point to get more days out of them?

I run square RE-71R's 275/35/18 but on staggered rims 10 front and 10.5 rear so I can't do front<->back rotations but I have considered left<-->right off-rim or cross rotations between weekends if that might help me out. Going back to COTA again in May so likely going to get another new set before then but I really need to start maximizing my tire life and using them to the cords.

$$$

I just did this with my RS3's to get me one more day at Laguna on the fronts. I am also staggered 9.5/10.5 so i'm not as cool as those kids that can rotate all he time haha. With the RS3's since my insides were toasted, moving them from left to right did help me out. Still doesn't take away from the fact there is chucks of tires missing on the inside. I almost feel as though the Brembo's may be a little to much for the RS3's on hard braking (like at Laguna). I am doing a T Hill day next month and will drive the RS3's one last time there just to get rid of them and not put the miles on my RE71's.

Speaking of RE71's how are the holding up for you? I have some long trips coming up (1000 mile round trip + track day) and wanted to know if i should just throw the wheels in the back and drive down on my ZCP's or it doesn't matter as much?

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by hayes180

I just did this with my RS3's to get me one more day at Laguna on the fronts. I am also staggered 9.5/10.5 so i'm not as cool as those kids that can rotate all he time haha. With the RS3's since my insides were toasted, moving them from left to right did help me out. Still doesn't take away from the fact there is chucks of tires missing on the inside. I almost feel as though the Brembo's may be a little to much for the RS3's on hard braking (like at Laguna). I am doing a T Hill day next month and will drive the RS3's one last time there just to get rid of them and not put the miles on my RE71's.

Speaking of RE71's how are the holding up for you? I have some long trips coming up (1000 mile round trip + track day) and wanted to know if i should just throw the wheels in the back and drive down on my ZCP's or it doesn't matter as much?

All good to know and keep in mind, thanks. I have also run RS3's and was easily locking up my tires with them when they were well worn (even under moderate braking). RE-71R's are a world of difference and a much better match for aggressive or even semi-aggressive track pads.

Funny you ask, I'm driving around town on my RE-71R's right now (event this weekend). I would gladly run them to/from an event just keeping in mind that a nail could easily mess up a weekend. I also like to throw at least a spare if not a full set of wheels/tires in the car for trips away from home.

Enjoy the RE-71R's and let us know how you like them *you will*!

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by hayes180

I just did this with my RS3's to get me one more day at Laguna on the fronts. I am also staggered 9.5/10.5 so i'm not as cool as those kids that can rotate all he time haha. With the RS3's since my insides were toasted, moving them from left to right did help me out. Still doesn't take away from the fact there is chucks of tires missing on the inside. I almost feel as though the Brembo's may be a little to much for the RS3's on hard braking (like at Laguna). I am doing a T Hill day next month and will drive the RS3's one last time there just to get rid of them and not put the miles on my RE71's.

Speaking of RE71's how are the holding up for you? I have some long trips coming up (1000 mile round trip + track day) and wanted to know if i should just throw the wheels in the back and drive down on my ZCP's or it doesn't matter as much?

I did this once with a set of brand new RE-71Rs and it ruined a track day when something mauled my tire on the drive to the track from the hotel. Spent the entire morning trying to find a pair of replacement tires, which didn't really salvage the day.

It's worth driving down on street tires and doing the tire swap at the track, or at least having one spare.

[hayes180]

Originally Posted by redpriest

I did this once with a set of brand new RE-71Rs and it ruined a track day when something mauled my tire on the drive to the track from the hotel. Spent the entire morning trying to find a pair of replacement tires, which didn't really salvage the day.

It's worth driving down on street tires and doing the tire swap at the track, or at least having one spare.

yea makes sense. I'm use to driving 3/4 hours to the track. With these events down in SoCal for BC makes sense to drive on street tires and swap.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by hayes180

yea makes sense. I'm use to driving 3/4 hours to the track. With these events down in SoCal for BC makes sense to drive on street tires and swap.

If I were you I'd just mount the RE-71R. You'll be amazed by how good they are. I might go back to them, but I have to burn out my set of RC1s I have, and then the free set of 3 I got for 2nd place + 6 events.

[Mvez]

Originally Posted by redpriest

I did this once with a set of brand new RE-71Rs and it ruined a track day when something mauled my tire on the drive to the track from the hotel. Spent the entire morning trying to find a pair of replacement tires, which didn't really salvage the day.

It's worth driving down on street tires and doing the tire swap at the track, or at least having one spare.

Quit reminding me of this. The whole point of my build is to specifically avoid towing.

I am always carrying down stuff in my trailer for friends, looking forward to throwing some of my crap in theirs. LOL.

I'm going to do some testing between Trofeo-R's and NT01's.....we have some tracks really close by now, so don't mind driving down on either to be honest.

[roastbeef]

Three free sets? Like 12 tires?

[Mvez]

Originally Posted by redpriest

If I were you I'd just mount the RE-71R. You'll be amazed by how good they are. I might go back to them, but I have to burn out my set of RC1s I have, and then the free set of 3 I got for 2nd place + 6 events.

New the RE-71R, we have found is literally as fast as the NT01. As the NT01 gets down to a slick it does become a bit faster, but it honestly wears like a R-comp.

We used RE71R recently on our miata for a pair of 8-hour enduros and we had to change left fronts due to wear in each race, which wouldn't happen on Hankooks or any other comparable street tire. It's crazy fast for a street tire, but wears faster.

Takes heat well too, lots of guys running them on GT4's, which are fast and not exactly lightweights either.

[hayes180]

Originally Posted by redpriest

If I were you I'd just mount the RE-71R. You'll be amazed by how good they are. I might go back to them, but I have to burn out my set of RC1s I have, and then the free set of 3 I got for 2nd place + 6 events.

yea I'm excited for them, i've only heard good things.. they should be at my door when i get home..

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by Mvez

Quit reminding me of this. The whole point of my build is to specifically avoid towing.

I am always carrying down stuff in my trailer for friends, looking forward to throwing some of my crap in theirs. LOL.

I'm going to do some testing between Trofeo-R's and NT01's.....we have some tracks really close by now, so don't mind driving down on either to be honest.

That's the beauty of the E92 though - I stuff all 4 of my track tires in the back seat, and then all my tools and supplies in the trunk, with some stuff fitted in the foot wells of the back seat. No towing required! You can do what roastbeef does and mount a roof rack for a couple tires if you want to fit more stuff in the back.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by Mvez

New the RE-71R, we have found is literally as fast as the NT01. As the NT01 gets down to a slick it does become a bit faster, but it honestly wears like a R-comp.

We used RE71R recently on our miata for a pair of 8-hour enduros and we had to change left fronts due to wear in each race, which wouldn't happen on Hankooks or any other comparable street tire. It's crazy fast for a street tire, but wears faster.

Takes heat well too, lots of guys running them on GT4's, which are fast and not exactly lightweights either.

For HPDE, I had the luxury of being able to rotate them + flip them on the rim to maximize use. Was able to get about 6 days out of them, and many of those days were Speed District 2-3 hours of track time per day days.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by hayes180

hahaha this is awesome

Hope somebody actually gets fooled and asks how the hell my dtm car is in b2? LOL

[hayes180]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Hope somebody actually gets fooled and asks how the hell my dtm car is in b2? LOL

bahahah.. im really looking forward to Chuckwalla. Never ran it before, should be fun.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

my pb is 1.34.3 (about 2 min into the vid). advice and critiquing is welcome!

Sorry...just had a sec to look at this and only watched lap one. Not exactly an exhaustive review...sorry.

Be more aggressive on the throttle in 2, 3, 4. Throttle steer through 2 to get and keep the car right on the edge. Get on the throttle earlier on exit to 2.

I couldn't tell exactly but it sounded like you coasted a bit at 3. No sprinkles for you. Sprinkles are for people who don't coast.

Turn 4 is an especially good place to use the throttle to rotate the car as you want to be on the gas before the apex of 4. Charge up the hill from 3 and then snap the throttle off enough to get the car to turn there, then back on it hard down the hill to the braking zone to 5.

On 6, watch the steering input as the front loads up just as the rear lightens. Can get unruly if you don't manage that well. I like to shift right at the crest of 6, but it might not work with your fancy flappy paddle stuff. Just straighten the wheel a bit if the rear gets unruly.

Between 8 and 9 you need to get further left. Straight line brake when the power poles in the distance all line up, rotate the car (sometimes I "bend" the car into 9 by adding more and more steering until it all lines up) and then get on the gas hard pre-apex. There's a dip right at the apex and you should clobber that dip. It's positive reinforcement that you've hit the apex perfectly. It'll pay off down the straight in increased speed.

Hope this helps somewhat.

[roastbeef]

You watched the warm up lap? :

[///Mobbin]

Anyone running the Ground Control street camber plates with coilovers? My Vorshlag plates need their top bearings replaced and have to send them to Vorshlag to get fixed, thinking to try the ground control street plates for a bit while they are out and just have two sets for when maintenance arises on one set. Also so I don't have to get a rental car for 3+ days.

Edit: The noise was not the Vorshlag plates, likely a clearance issue, getting spacers so we'll see.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Three free sets? Like 12 tires?

No, 3 free tires. My current set will probably last 1 full weekend only, and then when I get the 3 free tires, I'll just purchase another, then run those for 6 track days, then *finally* switch to something new.

It isn't much, but it subsidizes some of the consumable cost! lol.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Anyone running the Ground Control street camber plates with coilovers? My Vorshlag plates need their top bearings replaced and have to send them to Vorshlag to get fixed, thinking to try the ground control street plates for a bit while they are out and just have two sets for when maintenance arises on one set. Also so I don't have to get a rental car for 3+ days.

I have a set that I used before I swapped coilovers. They're good - ran them for over 40 track days without an issue at all.

[chamba002]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Just the potions facing the engine. It was a fun project while I was waiting for the filter to dry after a cleaning, but I can't proclaim unnoticed a difference.
You can't tell it's there other than the subtle gold reflection against other engine parts.

Hmmm interesting... I kinda felt that way with header wrap. I header wrapped my Miata but no noticeable difference. How many tape rolls did you use?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by chamba002

Hmmm interesting... I kinda felt that way with header wrap. I header wrapped my Miata but no noticeable difference. How many tape rolls did you use?

It came in like 14x14" sheets. Pretty easy to use.

I didn't expect a difference, I was just being a bored dork. It can only help! Right?

[dab_of_oppo]

Hey all

Starting to get things ready for the upcoming track season. Had a question.

I auto-x the car in stock class, and that will limit me to stock brakes on the track. I had a lot of overheating issues with the brakes (yes I know a driver mod will help with this, working on it). Was wondering if anything can be done to help keep the rotors cooler for longer thats still legal in F-Street Autocross? Rotors must be stock, pads I can change. Rotors are slightly warped from last year so I need new stock ones either way, but is there a pad I could change to to help keep temps down? Am I just fighting against the laws of physics here? If I change the pad compound, I could at least keep some of the heat away from the brake fluid?

This is mission raceway in BC, where there's not much room for cooling the brakes either.

[macdude357]

Originally Posted by dab_of_oppo

Hey all

Starting to get things ready for the upcoming track season. Had a question.

I auto-x the car in stock class, and that will limit me to stock brakes on the track. I had a lot of overheating issues with the brakes (yes I know a driver mod will help with this, working on it). Was wondering if anything can be done to help keep the rotors cooler for longer thats still legal in F-Street Autocross? Rotors must be stock, pads I can change. Rotors are slightly warped from last year so I need new stock ones either way, but is there a pad I could change to to help keep temps down? Am I just fighting against the laws of physics here? If I change the pad compound, I could at least keep some of the heat away from the brake fluid?

This is mission raceway in BC, where there's not much room for cooling the brakes either.

Stock rotors or stock sized rotors? If the latter, you could use one of the StopTech or PFC OEM replacement rotors. They are supposed to have more vanes and therefore should run cooler.

There are quite a few of use that just run those (or even stock rotors) with track pads and good fluid that do fine. M3 Number 86 runs stock brakes (plus track pads) and he runs well under 2 minutes at Buttonwillow.