Slonik Vanos Hub Covers replacement

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by Vuu

Those of you who ordered on Black Friday, have you received your shipment yet?

Not yet.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

High volumes of oil is not needed or desired at this Vanos spring. Some oil is provided from the central hub of the rotor face, from inside the covers. Oil here has absolutely zero effect on noise, these parts don't move. Cover condition has no bearing on noise.

However, other serviced components within this job scope could cause positive effects on noise.

Yep- I'm not totally convinced that something actually changed. I just noticed that someone mentioned this before I had mine changed, and I seem to have had improvement as well.

That being said, it hasn't been very much time here, and the weather has definitely gotten alot colder. Need more time to draw any definitive conclusions.

Nothing else was done during the job that I would think would have had any impact. Just valve covers, cam cover gaskets, spark plug tubes and plugs, and a power steering flush.

I'll report back in a few months once I get some more real world data here.

[tlrid3r]

I haven't replaced the vanos covers, still waiting to arrive but I have replaced my valve covers, spark plug tubes, everything that's goes with replacing valve covers. The noise that people were talking about is there before and after the job. I'll be doing all that again and only difference will be the vanos cover.
I believe the noise is from oil pump.

[reidetailing]

Just purchased a set of these from Alex Move Over .
Can't wait to receive them

[Ajolives]

Originally Posted by drwankel

So something interesting I've noticed, and I may need more time to confirm that this is indeed it.

I've had that issue where if I let the car sit for a few days or sometimes just overnight, on the the initial startup, I get a rattle for a few seconds- that everyone claims is normal. Supposedly just oil pressure building in the vanos system.

However, ever since I've had the slon covers installed, it has completely and totally stopped. Hasn't happened once. There was someone else on facebook who installed the carbahn covers, and mentioned the same thing. The startup rattle was completely gone after replacing the vanos covers.

I'm now awfully suspicious that the startup rattle that people all claim is normal is actually a symptom of vanos covers that are starting to fail.

Would be curious if anybody else noticed something similar.

Same here dude, completely gone. I think it was the plastic cover rotating on startup. I will say for sake of argument my valve covers were leaking prior to the install so loss of oil pressure isn't off the table in my situation.

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by reidetailing

Just purchased a set of these from Alex Move Over .
Can't wait to receive them

Just received my set from Alex Move Over

Looks great

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by Ajolives

Same here dude, completely gone. I think it was the plastic cover rotating on startup. I will say for sake of argument my valve covers were leaking prior to the install so loss of oil pressure isn't off the table in my situation.

So that now makes 3 that have had this noise stop since replacing the plastic covers. The plot thickens...

[spammysammich]

Released from Russia today.

[chutak]

Originally Posted by Vuu

Those of you who ordered on Black Friday, have you received your shipment yet?

Received mine today. Shipped on Dec 1st.

[_paolo]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Released from Russia today.

Mine was released from Russia on Dec 4. Still no delivery

[Beemer892]

Originally Posted by _paolo

Mine was released from Russia on Dec 4. Still no delivery

Same here

[slcook54]

Not surprised. Mine took about 3-4 weeks after being released to get to my local post office. Be patient.

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by slcook54

Not surprised. Mine took about 3-4 weeks after being released to get to my local post office. Be patient.

I once sent myself a postcard from St. Petersburg and it took 3 months to get to my home address. I'm not surprised by the wait.

[rantarM3]

Here's what these look like anodized, in case anyone is curious.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by rantarM3

Here's what these look like anodized, in case anyone is curious.

Nice! You did that for the fun of it or protection?

[rantarM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Nice! You did that for the fun of it or protection?

A little of both, but mainly to try and keep a more OEM-like appearance.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by rantarM3

A little of both, but mainly to try and keep a more OEM-like appearance.

Won't see much of it once installed but still give that nice feeling hey...

[DanMpower]

Originally Posted by rantarM3

Here's what these look like anodized, in case anyone is curious.
Attachment 2769628

Looks nice, I'm not too familiar with the anodizing process but does it add any thickness to the material?

If it does you might have some issues clipping it on since the tolerance was extremely tight when I installed mine. I had to push pretty hard on some of the final clips to have them "click" into place.

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by DanMpower

Looks nice, I'm not too familiar with the anodizing process but does it add any thickness to the material?

If it does you might have some issues clipping it on since the tolerance was extremely tight when I installed mine. I had to push pretty hard on some of the final clips to have them "click" into place.

If you just hand an anodizer 4 parts and say "Hard anodize Black please." the anodizer should default to .002" thick per surface.
At least that's what the wording on the MIL-Spec says.

I don't happen to have the spec in front of me at the moment, but it says something to the effect of…
"If the thickness is NOT specified, on the part drawing or the purchase document, .002" surface thickness shall be applied."

On parts with tightly toleranced bores (+/-.001", or less), and especially with sealing surfaces, I always specify anodize to .001" thick.
The machine shops can really struggle with holding those tight size tolerance and surface finish requirements, when asking for .002" thick.

Two other "Booger Eating Nerd" facts about anodize thickness.
It doesn't build up on sharp corners very well the thicker you go, and can flake off easier.
Also, the thicker the layer, the softer it becomes.

[rantarM3]

Originally Posted by DanMpower

Looks nice, I'm not too familiar with the anodizing process but does it add any thickness to the material?

If it does you might have some issues clipping it on since the tolerance was extremely tight when I installed mine. I had to push pretty hard on some of the final clips to have them "click" into place.

Anodizing is not a surface coating like plating or powder coating. It is an oxidative "coating," which means that the coating thickness is not entirely on the surface of the base material. For example, you might have anodizing specified as 50 microns but only half that thickness would be above the base material dimension. If you have to have a part re-anodized, stripping the original finish will result in the part losing material, which would change the original dimensions.

I do not anticipate any issues clipping these on because of the anodizing.

[Helmsman]

Heads up guys;

Took a quick look today just to find one of the tabs doesn't appear snapped on. The shop claim they are certain all went on. Talking to a mate who did the job himself he says it is easy to believe they are fully on but needs to be double checked. The spring has to be forced all the way tight into the vanos plate to enable the cover to be fully seated.
So new round with the shop...

[drwankel]

ouch, that really sucks. At least you were able to catch it on the passenger side. If it was the drivers side you would never know...