(ENGINE RUNS!!!!) Broke down my engine block and changed the engine

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by kyrix1st

I stopped hitting the rev limiter on my E92 M3s after my 6MT's limiter momentarily dropped to 7k rpm when I did a gymkhana demo run at an event.

I don't think S65s like to be in a high load, low speed environment like doing smoky donuts (well no car does, but particularly this one). It can however run sessions after sessions of track driving without any issues.

I can't see the logic behind that. It's perfectly fine to do that. Of course, donuts will wear the engine faster, but as long as you don't have a fatigue in the rods, nothing bad will happen.

[drrust]

Don't do this:

S65 engine blew rods through block and caught fire ! https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1545886

[kyrix1st]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

I can't see the logic behind that. It's perfectly fine to do that. Of course, donuts will wear the engine faster, but as long as you don't have a fatigue in the rods, nothing bad will happen.

Engine DME limits car's performance the way it did with mine when the ECU senses values out of the pre-designated parameters; it's basically telling you to take it easy. It would be naive to think continued abuse in its unintended way won't accumulate irreparable damage. This is not an American muscle car where you get the peak torque from 1500rpm.

I've seen quite a few guys break the VANOS chain by continuously hitting the rev limiter (highest engine load due to rpm) doing donuts; 1. you are not getting enough cold air and 2. doing so keeps at maximum engine load unlike when you are at the track where the load varies as you accelerate and upshift/downshift. No laboratory simulation of any engine manufacturer runs the engine at maximum rpm ALL the time, but rather goes by data of respective tracks/roads.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by drrust

Don't do this:

S65 engine blew rods through block and caught fire ! https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1545886

Yeah, that's a classic video

I'm not saying I do that, because in true my irrational fear overcomes my rational. But what I think about that is exactly the way pbonsalb replied in the refered thread:

"I think an E92M3 should be able to do donuts, burnouts and drifting without blowing the motor. Sure, the rod bearings might have lasted a little longer without this, but my guess is that engine was not going to last."

Originally Posted by kyrix1st

Engine DME limits car's performance the way it did with mine when the ECU senses values out of the pre-designated parameters; it's basically telling you to take it easy. It would be naive to think continued abuse in its unintended way won't accumulate irreparable damage. This is not an American muscle car where you get the peak torque from 1500rpm.

I've seen quite a few guys break the VANOS chain by continuously hitting the rev limiter (highest engine load due to rpm) doing donuts; 1. you are not getting enough cold air and 2. doing so keeps at maximum engine load unlike when you are at the track where the load varies as you accelerate and upshift/downshift. No laboratory simulation of any engine manufacturer runs the engine at maximum rpm ALL the time, but rather goes by data of respective tracks/roads.

I agree on that about hitting the rev limiter, that can't be okay for any engine, it's much stress on the cams.

Although i disagree on the high rpm, I think keeping the engine revs constantly high, close to rev limiter, can't be that bad, because in a race you need that quite a lot. Sometimes you just need that 8000rpm during a long turn, or the straight is too long. Or maybe you're just in an autobahn and you want to run on max speed all along it.

The engine must and do handle that.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Yeah, that's a classic video

I'm not saying I do that, because in true my irrational fear overcomes my rational. But what I think about that is exactly the way pbonsalb replied in the refered thread:

"I think an E92M3 should be able to do donuts, burnouts and drifting without blowing the motor. Sure, the rod bearings might have lasted a little longer without this, but my guess is that engine was not going to last."

I agree on that about hitting the rev limiter, that can't be okay for any engine, it's much stress on the cams.

Although i disagree on the high rpm, I think keeping the engine revs constantly high, close to rev limiter, can't be that bad, because in a race you need that quite a lot. Sometimes you just need that 8000rpm during a long turn, or the straight is too long. Or maybe you're just in an autobahn and you want to run on max speed all along it.

The engine must and do handle that.

It's probably fine if there is enough air flow to the engine.

[jvictormp]

Hi guys

I was wondering if I should change or not the vibration damper (harmonic balancer) bolts, as I don't know if the seller did touch them.

TIS says to replace them, but they are $100 the set and 10 days to arrive here.

Should I leave them or should I redo the torque?

Torque specs are: 60Nm + 40º + 40º

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Hi guys

I was wondering if I should change or not the vibration damperc(harmonic balancer) bolts, as I don't know if the seller did touch them.

TIS says to replace them, but they are $100 the set and 10 days to arrive here.

Should I leave them or should I redo the torque?

Torque specs are: 60Nm + 40º + 40º

Replace them. I've seen them snap after subsequent attempts to retorque them. You don't know how many times they've been removed and reused in the past, and trust me you don't want to have to dig out that broken bolt from the crankshaft snout. Plenty of DIY'ers unaware of the risk have reused them without getting burned, but its a massive risk not worth taking.

[Formula_Autohaus]

I personally would replace them.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

Replace them. I've seen them snap after subsequent attempts to retorque them. You don't know how many times they've been removed and reused in the past, and trust me you don't want to have to dig out that broken bolt from the crankshaft snout. Plenty of DIY'ers unaware of the risk have reused them without getting burned, but its a massive risk not worth taking.

Cheapest $100 you will ever spend!!

[jvictormp]

Thanks for replying.

Another question.

What should I do about the oil cooler?

Can there be any debris/metal shavings? Cause I was trying to understand the flow path on it. The oil flow from oil filter housing to oil cooler, then returns again to oil filter housing.

In the block, where the filter housing goes, there are 3 holes where the oil to goes into/from the block to the filter.

And there are some spring valves in the filter housing, making me think that the oil cooler doesn't always receive all the oil flow, but only what the spring valve in the filter housing allows.

My doubt is: that oil going to the cooler, is it filtered or not? Cause if it is, there won't be any metal shavings on it, right?

When I was washing the sump with water, I saw how difficult it is to remove the shavings. They stick firmly to the oil, only removed with soapy water.

So how would I remove any shavings from oil cooler?

I plan on doing an oil change right after firing the engine for some minutes.

[rcracin]

Take the oil cooler to a radiator shop. They should be able to clean it properly.

[jp1984]

Originally Posted by rcracin

Take the oil cooler to a radiator shop. They should be able to clean it properly.

Or use this opportunity to upgrade the cooler!

[jvictormp]

I can't find any ball bearing in my old flywheel. Is this correct or it was really missing?

[jvictormp]

Just put the flywheel on it, but starter gear doesn't seem to be engaged on it. Is it normal? Will it be forced forward when actuated?

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Just put the flywheel on it, but starter gear doesn't seem to be engaged on it. Is it normal? Will it be forced forward when actuated?

Only on actuation. You don't want your starter constantly engaged.

[jvictormp]

Trying to start the engine now, but it doesn't crank.

Fuel pump fuse (#70) is out (need to prime oil system first), injectors are electrically disconnected, sparks and coils are out (so it doesn't build compression).

I'm depressing clutch pedal, but when I hit the start button, it simply comes off again.

Doesn't even click the starter, any crank at all.

It's just like if I wasn't depressing the clutch.

One hit on the button, okay, first stage.

Another hit on the button, okay, injection and ignition all on (fuel pump fault shows up on the dash).

Press the clutch pedal, hit the button, and all comes off again.

I also tried not pressing the clutch pedal, but pressing the brake pedal, and at the third hit on the button, the dash warns to depress the clutch pedal, so the switch is working good.

What could it be?

Edit.: Oh, I think it's the clutch. The warning showed up with the pedal depressed now.

[jvictormp]

Alright, jumped signals 3 and 4 of the clutch switch and first crank was done!!!

I let it crank aprox. 60 seconds. Now I'm installing plenum, injectors, coils, plugs to start it all.

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Alright, jumped signals 3 and 4 of the clutch switch and first crank was done!!!

I let it crank aprox. 60 seconds. Now I'm installing plenum, injectors, coils, plugs to start it all.

good luck my friend. feel good that you did all the work

[jp1984]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Alright, jumped signals 3 and 4 of the clutch switch and first crank was done!!!

I let it crank aprox. 60 seconds. Now I'm installing plenum, injectors, coils, plugs to start it all.

Congrats, hope it goes smoothly.

[jvictormp]

Finally, it runs!!!!!

[M3 hacker]

That’s awesome! Well done!!! I’m super happy for you…

[drrust]

Congratulations, now you can enjoy it!