DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

[Flea7]

Well,,,spoke to soon...bank #2 is bad too.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by Flea7

Well,,,spoke to soon...bank #2 is bad too.

It seems that these go out in pairs more often than not. Mine went a week apart. Given that a lot of the work is just getting to them, the best practice would be to go ahead and replace both. Good news is, I assume, the second one will be much quicker to replace.

[Flea7]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

It seems that these go out in pairs more often than not. Mine went a week apart. Given that a lot of the work is just getting to them, the best practice would be to go ahead and replace both. Good news is, I assume, the second one will be much quicker to replace.

Yeah, I had error codes for both banks before the replacement of #1. I was hoping that one caused the other but that wasn't the case. It ran 2 days until the 2nd bank showed an error after the replacement of bank 1.

I opened the faulty actuator and I couldn't see anything wrong with it. Minimal shaving...some grease residue. I think its the electronic part that is faulty.

[thekurgan]

I wanted to add to an already great DIY thread, something I just noticed as mine are going to be replaced soon.

The lack of lubrication, I planned to lube the linkages this spring, but got a code over the holiday, so I'm too late.

This is from Lang Racing, and what I felt was important routine maintenance to clean/lube the linkages to avoid possible gear wear:

The driver side throttles on this car were particularly squeaky and dry so we cleaned all the linkages and lubricated them to help the new throttles live a longer life than the originals did. This car had 70k miles on it when it came in.

http://www.langracing.com/e60-m5-and...uator-failure/


I'm definitely going to keep an eye on the sound, easy to hear, if you switch on the ignition, and operate the throttle pedal with your hood open. What I hear is a creaking/squeaking from the throttle bodies opening and closing.

I hope this helps some DIYers in the future.

[pbonsalb]

I would like to know more about the regreasing as preventative maintenance. 63k on my 08M3. Did the rod bearings as maintenance and am about to do the diff bushings.

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I would like to know more about the regreasing as preventative maintenance. 63k on my 08M3. Did the rod bearings as maintenance and am about to do the diff bushings.

I haven't had mine apart yet, but I suspect the linkage attachment to the rail for the throttle bodies, any associated springs/moving parts, and possibly the throttle plates themselves. I'm hoping to receive the actuators tomorrow or the following day and may be able to add more to this.

[W///]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

I wanted to add to an already great DIY thread, something I just noticed as mine are going to be replaced soon.

The lack of lubrication, I planned to lube the linkages this spring, but got a code over the holiday, so I'm too late.

This is from Lang Racing, and what I felt was important routine maintenance to clean/lube the linkages to avoid possible gear wear:

The driver side throttles on this car were particularly squeaky and dry so we cleaned all the linkages and lubricated them to help the new throttles live a longer life than the originals did. This car had 70k miles on it when it came in.

http://www.langracing.com/e60-m5-and...uator-failure/


I'm definitely going to keep an eye on the sound, easy to hear, if you switch on the ignition, and operate the throttle pedal with your hood open. What I hear is a creaking/squeaking from the throttle bodies opening and closing.

I hope this helps some DIYers in the future.

Very interesting. Mine definitely squeaks.

Have we determined that the issue is purely the gears physically, and not something wrong with the electronics?

One of my went out the first week I got the car at about 58-59k miles. I'm now at 82k miles, the other one that hasn't failed has been squeaking the whole time, but no failure yet. What kind of grease would they recommend we use? White lithium?

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by W///

Very interesting. Mine definitely squeaks.

Have we determined that the issue is purely the gears physically, and not something wrong with the electronics?

One of my went out the first week I got the car at about 58-59k miles. I'm now at 82k miles, the other one that hasn't failed has been squeaking the whole time, but no failure yet. What kind of grease would they recommend we use? White lithium?

I'm betting gears too myself. I've only got 38k on the odometer, but I was thinking it could be a multiple of things:

1. Worn gears (off idle where most cars live)
2. Worn because the motor is overworked, due to lack of lubrication (mine squeak like mad)
3. Electronic failure, circuit failure
4. Sensitive circuitry, maybe a small fault, triggers and keeps the actuator disabled.

My code came back as soon as I moved from reverse to 1st, but I did hear the car do the diagnostic when the ignition was triggered (squeeeeeak).

Lubricating the E46M3 linkage was far easier, so it's no wonder the entire unit is a maintenance item, instead of routine lubrication. Heat plays a role in that area too, they are constantly under the wiring box so a good heat lube, would be necessary.

[aussiem3]

I've just been quoted $4500 only for two TVAs. Now that doesn't include labour. That's highway robbery by BMW Australia when you know in NA it costs only $1600 for the two.

[W///]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

I've just been quoted $4500 only for two TVAs. Now that doesn't include labour. That's highway robbery by BMW Australia when you know in NA it costs only $1600 for the two.

Tell them to go to hell. Seriously, if worst comes to worst, try to source it from the US? Hell, PM me if you want, I wouldn't mind helping you out somehow. As for DIY, it seriously is not all that bad either. You can either do it yourself or find an indy shop to do it.

[Flea7]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

I'm betting gears too myself. I've only got 38k on the odometer, but I was thinking it could be a multiple of things:

1. Worn gears (off idle where most cars live)
2. Worn because the motor is overworked, due to lack of lubrication (mine squeak like mad)
3. Electronic failure, circuit failure
4. Sensitive circuitry, maybe a small fault, triggers and keeps the actuator disabled.

My code came back as soon as I moved from reverse to 1st, but I did hear the car do the diagnostic when the ignition was triggered (squeeeeeak).

Lubricating the E46M3 linkage was far easier, so it's no wonder the entire unit is a maintenance item, instead of routine lubrication. Heat plays a role in that area too, they are constantly under the wiring box so a good heat lube, would be necessary.

Read through this thread.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1068709

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by Flea7

Read through this thread.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1068709

I read it through and through. I'll still have some photos. There has to be a reason circuitry blows chunks for some, and not for others, as well as some soon and some later in the car's life.

I do know my linkage controlling these things squeals like a stuck pig, and that can't help the dc motor.

[Flea7]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

I've just been quoted $4500 only for two TVAs. Now that doesn't include labour. That's highway robbery by BMW Australia when you know in NA it costs only $1600 for the two.

There is a vendor here that sells them. I'm sure they can ship internationally.
As M/// said it's an easy DIY. I changed my second TVA in less than a hour.

Also, There are bmws dealers on eBay selling them around $800-$900 as well.

[Flea7]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

I read it through and through. I'll still have some photos. There has to be a reason circuitry blows chunks for some, and not for others, as well as some soon and some later in the car's life.

I do know my linkage controlling these things squeals like a stuck pig, and that can't help the dc motor.

When I replaced both mine, I didn't notice any squealing from the linkage.

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by Flea7

When I replaced both mine, I didn't notice any squealing from the linkage.

I haven't heard anyone complain aside from one M5 board member, who just happened to notice the noise. Maybe it's normal throttle plate/spring noise. I don't remember hearing it on any other of my BMWs.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by W///

Tell them to go to hell. Seriously, if worst comes to worst, try to source it from the US? Hell, PM me if you want, I wouldn't mind helping you out somehow. As for DIY, it seriously is not all that bad either. You can either do it yourself or find an indy shop to do it.

Thanks heaps for the offer. I can have them shipped from NA through TMS for under $1000 each. That's not bad. Going on your DIY, I know it can be easily done. The labour time quoted was $500 (2.5 hours) and another hour ($200) for resetting the error codes. The second one is a real joke.

Originally Posted by Flea7

There is a vendor here that sells them. I'm sure they can ship internationally.
As M/// said it's an easy DIY. I changed my second TVA in less than a hour.

Also, There are bmws dealers on eBay selling them around $800-$900 as well.

Thanks again. You have been helpful and Sean has sent me some links too from the other thread.

Thank you all

[aussiem3]

Also another thing I noticed was after switching off the car, it takes about 10-15 seconds before the valves closing. It's clearly audible, and I think it's the valves. I will try and take a video for posting.

And another observation was, after initially starting the car, there is a strong smell like fuel and exhaust gas. I am catless with BPM tune, but this is the first time I am smelling these but it goes away after awhile.

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

Also another thing I noticed was after switching off the car, it takes about 10-15 seconds before the valves closing. It's clearly audible, and I think it's the valves. I will try and take a video for posting.

And another observation was, after initially starting the car, there is a strong smell like fuel and exhaust gas. I am catless with BPM tune, but this is the first time I am smelling these but it goes away after awhile.

With the ignition switched on (engine off), move your throttle pedal in and out, do you hear anything from the engine bay? You should hear the actuators opening and closing. This is the same sound when the engine is first started and stopped. 10-15 seconds is too long for them to close.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

With the ignition switched on (engine off), move your throttle pedal in and out, do you hear anything from the engine bay? You should hear the actuators opening and closing. This is the same sound when the engine is first started and stopped. 10-15 seconds is too long for them to close.

I will check this morning. Thanks for the heads up.

[thekurgan]

I'm too lazy to double post the same photos:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...1&postcount=49

[Flea7]

We need metal gears. How much would it cost to have a company CNC ...or mill the gear parts?? Do we have anyone on the forum that can give some input???

[alpina-527]

Originally Posted by Flea7

We need metal gears. How much would it cost to have a company CNC ...or mill the gear parts?? Do we have anyone on the forum that can give some input???

Metal gears won't necessarily stop gear wear. Each gear needs to be made of a different material or hardness to stop wear.

Mine:

[IMG][/IMG]




[IMG][/IMG]