Track forum general chit chat.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by sperkins

Thanks for all the replies. It appears the corner balance is the costly service due to the amount of time it actually takes.
I’ve been looking on FB marketplace seeing if I can pick up some scales for cheap. If I can get some scales for around $500, I figure I’ll be money ahead moving forward.

This guy's local and has a decent DIY video on it. Might be worth trying to replicate or reaching out for help if he responds.

Outside of that, I've had positive experiences with Elite Performance (Burlingame, seems to be a favorite of some people that run with SpeedSF) and Vt Motorworks (Pleasanton, did most of the work on my car despite being like 40min away, great guys in general that'll pick up the phone to help you out when your DCT shits itself mid track day).

edit: tbh if I go for a corner balance I think I would just do it at Vt instead of getting the whole setup for something that I might do wrong, and something I'll have done very infrequently. my car isn't corner balanced right now despite having adjustable swaybar endlinks but probably something I'll have done at some point this year when I go back to the shop inevitably.

[sperkins]

Originally Posted by bipp

This guy's local and has a decent DIY video on it. Might be worth trying to replicate or reaching out for help if he responds.

Outside of that, I've had positive experiences with Elite Performance (Burlingame, seems to be a favorite of some people that run with SpeedSF) and Vt Motorworks (Pleasanton, did most of the work on my car despite being like 40min away, great guys in general that'll pick up the phone to help you out when your DCT shits itself mid track day).

edit: tbh if I go for a corner balance I think I would just do it at Vt instead of getting the whole setup for something that I might do wrong, and something I'll have done very infrequently. my car isn't corner balanced right now despite having adjustable swaybar endlinks but probably something I'll have done at some point this year when I go back to the shop inevitably.

I’ve watched “Wills Garage” numerous times. There’s nothing he won’t DIY!
Is he on this forum?

I have no interest in doing my own alignment. My main motivation for owning the scales is that I’m going to be stripping weight out of the car as an ongoing process, and I don’t want to get the car corner balanced every 6 months.

I’ll put those shops on my list. I live in Rocklin, so anything towards the Bay will be an all-day affair for me.

[sperkins]

Originally Posted by DRLane

You need something to mount and level those scales perfectly… Plus a way to lift and lower the car repeatedly with room to settle the springs.

I think you’re wasting $$$ unless you’re going full race car in the near future.

Understood. I’m still processing what this will entail.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by bipp

This guy's local and has a decent DIY video on it. Might be worth trying to replicate or reaching out for help if he responds.

Outside of that, I've had positive experiences with Elite Performance (Burlingame, seems to be a favorite of some people that run with SpeedSF) and Vt Motorworks (Pleasanton, did most of the work on my car despite being like 40min away, great guys in general that'll pick up the phone to help you out when your DCT shits itself mid track day).

edit: tbh if I go for a corner balance I think I would just do it at Vt instead of getting the whole setup for something that I might do wrong, and something I'll have done very infrequently. my car isn't corner balanced right now despite having adjustable swaybar endlinks but probably something I'll have done at some point this year when I go back to the shop inevitably.

What have you done to address the overheating of your DCT? The Slon deep DCT aluminum pan with lowered pickup suction tube, BW DCT overfill/dry break kit and do88 DCT cooler adds significant DCT fluid compared to stock and better controls/lowers DCT temps.

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by Ximian

This is the part that I'm not really understanding.

Since ABS works off the wheel speed sensor readings, not sure what adjustment there is to make. Avoiding getting into ABS on slicks is no different than the conditions of ABS engaging in any other situation - a wheel not spinning. With a slick, you can use more of the brake pedal longer before locking up so there is less of a chance of getting into ABS anyway.

Thinking more about it, could be related to how ABS activates while cornering or over bumps/curbs. But since there are no details on it, we'll probably never know.

Yeah I'm not sure at all. I've been digging pretty deep to try to find more info but it seems like only a few places have it figured out and will only flash units for big money, they don't seem interested in sharing any info about it. I'm almost tempted to buy one and try to extract the software.

One thing I gleaned is it may have to do with the accelerometer data. The stock one allegedly only allows a certain amount of decel before the ABS will start to activate whether the wheels are actually slipping or not. I have never had this happen, even with slicks so I'm not totally sure.

Maybe like you said it allows more trail braking or something but without having someone at Tevas to talk to, it's anyone's guess.

[mikentosh]

Originally Posted by amg6975

Yeah I'm not sure at all. I've been digging pretty deep to try to find more info but it seems like only a few places have it figured out and will only flash units for big money, they don't seem interested in sharing any info about it. I'm almost tempted to buy one and try to extract the software.

One thing I gleaned is it may have to do with the accelerometer data. The stock one allegedly only allows a certain amount of decel before the ABS will start to activate whether the wheels are actually slipping or not. I have never had this happen, even with slicks so I'm not totally sure.

Maybe like you said it allows more trail braking or something but without having someone at Tevas to talk to, it's anyone's guess.

I took the plunge and sent my unit to RHT last year, along with a chassis data sheet outlining the tire and brake dimensions, wheelbase (this went into my S65 1M), and weight. They forwarded it onto Continental Engineering in Europe for the flash, and I got it back a couple of months later with no other info in the box besides a "Race ABS" and customer identification stickers on my unit.

I've only had the car out a couple of times and still breaking it in/getting to know it so no feedback to give yet. Also hard for me to give any comparison to the stock unit, as its been 7-8 years since I drove an E92 on track prior (just came out of an F87 M2C).

[DRLane]

A new entrant into Motorsport ABS https://www.deltaabs.com/products/delta-abs-kit

It’s about the same price as buying a used Bosch M4. But you get something brand new vs reworking.

It’s close to 2x what you’d pay for the “reflash” but you’re getting something with more defined parameters.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

What have you done to address the overheating of your DCT? The Slon deep DCT aluminum pan with lowered pickup suction tube, BW DCT overfill/dry break kit and do88 DCT cooler adds significant DCT fluid compared to stock and better controls/lowers DCT temps.

Last time it was a mechatronics failure. I am not sure if it was heat related. I don't recall if my shifts felt sluggish - it was simply a matter of not being able to get it in gear at all afterwards. Speaking to my shop (Vt), they were of the opinion that more fluid or cooling wouldn't have resolved this. It seems like a fairly uncommon but still existent issue with the DCT - mikerunt had the same issue. I was on a "GTS" flash at the time.

When swapping in the new DCT, I had my shop install the BW banjo to add some extra fluid. Since then, I've gone to Laguna 3 times and had no issues. During these, I was on the OEM US DCT flash.

In this upcoming year, I don't think I'm going to be running in the summer (Thunderhill summers with 100+ highs don't seem appealing) so at least the first few events shouldn't have heat issues. At some point, I will be adding the do88 coolers and an extended pan of some sort - not sure when yet. I assume I will start hitting the "typical" stuff (i.e. sluggish shifts, not mechatronics failure lol) when it is evident that it is time to upgrade.

With that said, there's plenty of people running stock cooling and stock DCT with similar builds (coilovers and 200tw) without ever bricking their DCT... so I assume it was some sort of relatively anomalous freak issue.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by sperkins

I’ve watched “Wills Garage” numerous times. There’s nothing he won’t DIY!
Is he on this forum?

I have no interest in doing my own alignment. My main motivation for owning the scales is that I’m going to be stripping weight out of the car as an ongoing process, and I don’t want to get the car corner balanced every 6 months.

I’ll put those shops on my list. I live in Rocklin, so anything towards the Bay will be an all-day affair for me.

Yeah, that's fair. I haven't seen Will on this forum but it would definitely be great to get his expertise here to help out.

Hey, if you want to head down for a Sonoma or Laguna or BW day - would probably ease some of the commute if you picked up your car and headed straight to one of those tracks :P

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by sperkins

Guys,
I'm getting ready to install my first set of coilovers. What are some costs you've seen regarding alignment/corner balancing?

FWIW, i'm in NorCal.

Thanks,
Steve

in SoCal my guy charges $300 for a full track set up, CB and Alignment

[bipp]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

in SoCal my guy charges $300 for a full track set up, CB and Alignment

lmao the perpetual conflict of norcal shops charging as much as it costs to drive down to socal, go to disney, get your work done, and go back home

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by mikentosh

I took the plunge and sent my unit to RHT last year, along with a chassis data sheet outlining the tire and brake dimensions, wheelbase (this went into my S65 1M), and weight. They forwarded it onto Continental Engineering in Europe for the flash, and I got it back a couple of months later with no other info in the box besides a "Race ABS" and customer identification stickers on my unit.

I've only had the car out a couple of times and still breaking it in/getting to know it so no feedback to give yet. Also hard for me to give any comparison to the stock unit, as its been 7-8 years since I drove an E92 on track prior (just came out of an F87 M2C).

Interesting. I just put the M3 unit in my 1 series as is and sent it. Never really had any complaints other than the DSC eating brake pads if it's on or in MDM. Never had any issue with the ABS activation.

[mikerunt]

Originally Posted by DRLane

A new entrant into Motorsport ABS https://www.deltaabs.com/products/delta-abs-kit

It’s about the same price as buying a used Bosch M4. But you get something brand new vs reworking.

It’s close to 2x what you’d pay for the “reflash” but you’re getting something with more defined parameters.

Does it integrate with the OEM DME

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by mikerunt

Does it integrate with the OEM DME

CAN enabled, but I think with MS ABS you’re venturing toward standalone.

[amg6975]

Also looks like ABS only, no DSC/traction control.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by DRLane

A new entrant into Motorsport ABS https://www.deltaabs.com/products/delta-abs-kit

It’s about the same price as buying a used Bosch M4. But you get something brand new vs reworking.

It’s close to 2x what you’d pay for the “reflash” but you’re getting something with more defined parameters.

If I was paying for a flash, I'd want it done on a new unit because all of our hydraulic units are pretty old by now. Considering the price of a new unit and flash, this ABS kit price isn't so bad.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by amg6975

Also looks like ABS only, no DSC/traction control.

But OEM DSC/Traction is kinda meh anyhow. You’d get a better tuneable option with a standalone.

I can totally appreciate, ABS isn’t one size fits all. It’s a rabbit hole and the install is a pain.

[sperkins]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

in SoCal my guy charges $300 for a full track set up, CB and Alignment

Yea thats wild! Those numbers don't exist where i'm located.

[RalliartRsX]

So at the risk of derailing the discussion....

Looking for a single element rear wing to add some stability this season GLTC rules (701 sq-in max wing area, single element , end plates unlimited within reason)

Obviously 9lives is the best bang for the buck. But looking at options for less than 2k if anything exists

Ps aesthetics "do" matter. Really like a wider wing mount (say close to the edges of the trunk)

P s.s also willing to buy wig mounts and wing separate

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

So at the risk of derailing the discussion....

Looking for a single element rear wing to add some stability this season GLTC rules (701 sq-in max wing area, single element , end plates unlimited within reason)

Obviously 9lives is the best bang for the buck. But looking at options for less than 2k if anything exists

I don’t think you can do better than 9L at that price point. They’re a killer outfit.

[roastbeef]

Aren’t you supposed to NOT be using the abs?
What’s the point of better abs?

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Aren’t you supposed to NOT be using the abs?
What’s the point of better abs?

Because better ABS can stop the car faster than without. For threshold braking you’d go as hard into ABS as possible and the computer will pressure those tires with optimum grip to decelerate the car all while accounting for additional parameters that would be experienced with track conditions, downforce, and slicks.


The task of OEM road ABS is to keep you alive and in control. MS oriented is to stop the car, and assumes you know how to manage the control.