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| 05-27-2010, 12:56 AM | #221 |
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Can anyone refer me to an exhaust shop in the Northern NJ area? I went to KC's Customs in Ramsey and they quoted me at $500. This mod would do for the meantime while I decide if I want to go the full Akra set-up or wait for the Rogue valve-tronic.
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| 06-02-2010, 12:49 PM | #224 |
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Hey blade you know what I realized with the tape is when your really getting on the throttle the tape gets hot and starts to smell a little. Tell me if you notice it. It gets less noticeable after a while but it is still there...
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| 06-02-2010, 01:12 PM | #225 |
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I have I hoped it was just curing and would go away. Seems like I might eventually have to do what the other guys did and take off the exhaust and get it welded again.
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| 06-02-2010, 01:40 PM | #226 | |
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but for the most part mine has become pretty tame and the exhaust has gotten slightly louder.![]()
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| 06-02-2010, 09:04 PM | #227 |
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I got the pipes cut out and replaced with straight pipe. I think this is a better way to do it. The shops said that tape would only last a year at the most. I don't know if that's accurate or not, but I trust them since they've been in the business for a long time.
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| 06-03-2010, 01:25 PM | #228 | |
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Also since I'm also in MD, where did you go for welding and jetcoating? Finally, would you mind if we met somewhere so I can listen in person? Much appreciated...
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| 06-03-2010, 01:40 PM | #229 | |
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| 06-03-2010, 02:25 PM | #230 | |
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I'll hit you up with a PM after I finish my DIY brake ducts so we can meet...
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| 06-16-2010, 03:34 AM | #231 |
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Damn i wish i was local to you guys! great stuff everyone though, im defo gonna do this! But everyone seems to be con artists in london! the cheapest quote ive gotten is 500 POUND! if anyone has a good garage in london PM pleeease!
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| 06-27-2010, 10:23 AM | #232 |
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I've been thinking about doing this mod and came up with a question: why cut the perforated pipes out and weld straight pipes in their place?
Wouldn't a series of exhaust pipe seal clamps do the trick instead? Something like this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/D.../?autoview=SKU What I have in mind is using several sealing SS clamps one after the other, to cover the perforated sections. This way, there is no need for the exhaust tape - which some think won't last a long time - and there's no need for cutting & welding inside the exhaust. Is this idea crazy? And speaking of which, what diameter are those perforated pipes?
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| 06-30-2010, 01:22 PM | #233 | |
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| 07-01-2010, 02:40 PM | #234 |
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It's gonna be LOUD. If you're in N.Y., you best watch out for the poohleece? Know what I mean? I didn't know the stock system was built like that. I thought it was all chambers and baffling that caused the sound dampening, sort of like a flowmaster or something. Good to know. The guy at Remus USA said what makes a free flow work better than a stock is that sound absorption back pressure is better than mechanical back pressure. Said most are built w/ mechanical back pressure, to meet strict Euro standards. Cheaper to mfr. apparently.
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| 07-01-2010, 04:03 PM | #235 | |
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Anybody else know different?
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| 07-05-2010, 10:55 PM | #236 | |
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I'm trying to buy a used oem muffler now and want to do it as well Maybe we can help each Other out ![]() Also want to paint my tips and muffler black |
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| 07-06-2010, 08:03 AM | #237 | |
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And to clarify, the pipes are 2.5 inch, holding them as I type |
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| 07-06-2010, 09:26 AM | #239 | |
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Either way, I'll let you know...
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| 07-06-2010, 09:31 AM | #240 |
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Thanks for the info! Do you have more pics of the new pipes welded inside?
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| 07-06-2010, 09:48 AM | #241 |
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| 07-06-2010, 10:32 PM | #242 |
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Anyone have a good idea of how long the perforated pipe part is? Guessing each side would be the same. Another member and I are thinking about getting the clams to use for this rather than the tape or welding new pipes. At 2.5 inches long we're trying to figure out how many clamps we'd need if this was the route we're going.
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