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      02-07-2024, 02:37 PM   #23541
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I actually did not even consider that Solo DL's could display readouts like that. I thought that they just logged data for review after the session/race, but that would explain why so few people in here run gauges, as Solo DL's seem very common in here. It makes total sense, considering how it works. I had just never thought to put the two ideas together.

If anyone has any input on the P3 gauge though, I am still curious about it. I dont know that I track enough at this point to justify a DL, and they are kind of bulky. The vent gauge seems fairly unobtrusive.
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      02-07-2024, 02:56 PM   #23542
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Originally Posted by iamtrashman View Post
What is the general consensus on gauges/meters in here?

It seems most people just track and run until they get a warning on the dash or their DCT stops shifting well, or else mix in a cool down lap once in a while.

I am on the fence about trying one of those P3 OBD2 vent gauges. It seems like other than oil pressure it has all the stuff I would need or want to keep an eye on while on track, but they seem kind of uncommon on the forum outside of supercharged guys (probably because it can be used as a boost gauge). I figure being able to have the coolant temp read out on the gauge and oil temp on the cluster should be enough to just see if anything is really spiking. I think it can also display IAT/AFR/Voltage and a few other parameters. Seems like it has a shift light function and can clear codes as well.

If anyone has experience with one I would love to hear your thoughts on it, and for those that run no gauges, any particular reason you have elected not to?
I have a P3 with the boost gauge. I have CAN pulling all other data into an AIM dash including oil pressure. This was mostly just useful for monitoring boost.

I’d be happy to sell it for $300 including the vent housing if you’re interested. Shoot me a pm.

Otherwise, if you fancy spending time on track get an AIM solo 2DL.
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      02-07-2024, 06:46 PM   #23543
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      02-07-2024, 07:58 PM   #23544
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Brake Bleeding:

I’ve just completed a fluid flush and bleed. I use a power bleeder and go RR, RL, FR, FL to bleed. I pumped about 4.5L of fluid through the system and the pedal feels great. It’s the old school bleed method I’ve always done.

I’ve never bled using the dsc/abs pump, as seen here:


Should I bleed that way too/instead in the future? Just curious if I’m missing out on even better brakes. My brakes work awesome, but I’m curious if there is better!!!
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      02-07-2024, 08:05 PM   #23545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtrashman View Post
What is the general consensus on gauges/meters in here?

It seems most people just track and run until they get a warning on the dash or their DCT stops shifting well, or else mix in a cool down lap once in a while.

I am on the fence about trying one of those P3 OBD2 vent gauges. It seems like other than oil pressure it has all the stuff I would need or want to keep an eye on while on track, but they seem kind of uncommon on the forum outside of supercharged guys (probably because it can be used as a boost gauge). I figure being able to have the coolant temp read out on the gauge and oil temp on the cluster should be enough to just see if anything is really spiking. I think it can also display IAT/AFR/Voltage and a few other parameters. Seems like it has a shift light function and can clear codes as well.

If anyone has experience with one I would love to hear your thoughts on it, and for those that run no gauges, any particular reason you have elected not to?
I think a SoloDL can get most of that. On my E46, I do have an oil pressure switch connected to a small but stupidly loud siren inside the car. So if I lose oil pressure the siren goes off. I can clearly hear it at full throttle with a helmet. After much practice on my E46 330 (oil pump nut) it is unlikely you’ll see the red oil light before it’s too late.

The switch opens at 18psi so I have a defeat switch for when the oil is warm and the car is idling.
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      02-07-2024, 08:08 PM   #23546
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It's still my street car after 14 years and 143,000 miles, so it is occasionally also my track car

The reason it is still my street car after 14 years is nobody ever made a better car before or since, cost no object, and nobody ever will
Same here. Owned my car since new. Love driving it everyday. I’m traveling this week…I miss it! Stuck in a Jeep Gladiator rental ☹️
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      02-07-2024, 09:27 PM   #23547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney View Post
Brake Bleeding:

I’ve just completed a fluid flush and bleed. I use a power bleeder and go RR, RL, FR, FL to bleed. I pumped about 4.5L of fluid through the system and the pedal feels great. It’s the old school bleed method I’ve always done.

Should I bleed that way too/instead in the future? Just curious if I’m missing out on even better brakes. My brakes work awesome, but I’m curious if there is better!!!
4.5 L is a lot… are you sure you need that much?
I siphon the fluid out, careful not to go below the feed lines, then top off with fresh fluid and begin my bleed as you described. I can bleed all four corners pretty generously and only use one bottle of srf.
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      02-08-2024, 12:00 AM   #23548
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Agreed. I had removed my calipers to do a deep cleaning and so I knew I had introduced air into the system. I was also was due for a full flush so just went overboard on flushing. Wanted to be sure I wasn’t left with any air. First 2.5 liters was cheap stuff and then I flushed through SRF.
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      02-08-2024, 06:48 AM   #23549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney View Post
Brake Bleeding:

I’ve just completed a fluid flush and bleed. I use a power bleeder and go RR, RL, FR, FL to bleed. I pumped about 4.5L of fluid through the system and the pedal feels great. It’s the old school bleed method I’ve always done.

I’ve never bled using the dsc/abs pump, as seen here:


Should I bleed that way too/instead in the future? Just curious if I’m missing out on even better brakes. My brakes work awesome, but I’m curious if there is better!!!
That is a ton of fluid. Even when I installed new calipers at all four corners and flushed out the system I didnt use close to that much.

You shouldn't need to do the abs pump bleed method unless you run the system too low and get air into the system.
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      02-08-2024, 08:15 AM   #23550
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I didn't think ahead when I replaced my master cylinder and booster with used parts while waiting for new ones to ship and ended up using quite a few liters of Endless fluid.

4.5 L sounds about right if you introduced air into the ABS unit by either disconnecting the hard lines or running the master cylinder empty. Once the air bubbles get dislodged, they have to travel quite a long way to go out of the caliper.
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      02-08-2024, 09:48 AM   #23551
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i *just* did this (replaced my master + booster) and only needed about a liter of fluid. did a powerbleed, then a DSC bleed, then one more power bleed for good measure. had lots of sputtering and pedal felt good. 4.5L seems like A LOT.
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      02-08-2024, 10:15 AM   #23552
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Yeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
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      02-08-2024, 11:53 AM   #23553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney View Post
Yeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
Never tried that way but a tip I learned to not lose too much fluid is to get something to press down on the brake pedal when taking off the calipers until it’s time to bleed
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      02-08-2024, 11:55 AM   #23554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney View Post
Yeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
I got air in my DSC unit a few years ago and did the DSC bleed, and used about 1L to get it out. Using the two-person pedal method, and then using a pressure bleeder, did not work on their own.

If you were seeing tiny bubbles, those could be air entering the tube through the bleeder screw. Doesn't mean there was air in the system.
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      02-08-2024, 12:37 PM   #23555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommysalami View Post
I got air in my DSC unit a few years ago and did the DSC bleed, and used about 1L to get it out. Using the two-person pedal method, and then using a pressure bleeder, did not work on their own.

If you were seeing tiny bubbles, those could be air entering the tube through the bleeder screw. Doesn't mean there was air in the system.
Great reminder, be gentle with those bleeders. It’s easy to over tighten damage threads resulting in a leak/air.

Bimmer Barney I too have gone through several liters, it’s not ever flush but possible. I’ll use a cheap fluid and then an expensive single liter for the final pass through. I use a OBD tool to actuate the ABS pump for each corner. Always done at the end of the process so likely I’m doing it in the wrong sequence.
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      02-08-2024, 12:43 PM   #23556
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Hoping to get some great input with my below questions:

- What's the main purpose(s) to getting an aftermarket fuel cell, as opposed to retaining our OEM fuel cell?

- What is the best fuel cell you can buy for this platform? I've narrowed my search down to the following:

1) Merin SFT Fuel Cell for BMW E90 (made in Italy) -- They have a few different models 2451, 2700, 2955
Features for the Merin unit are as follows:

The Merin SFT Safety Fuel Cell for BMW E90 features:
  • FIA approved
  • Internal Safety FOAM
  • fno. 2 closure plates
  • electrical connector
  • internal catch tank
  • no. 2 li pumps to fill internal catch tank
  • pick-up and return -06
  • fiberglass cover
  • antirollover vent valve FIA approved into filler neck Ø 50 mm (or Ø 57)
2)FIA Homologated FuelSafe Bladder With Internal Fuel Pump System from HGK Racing

The HGK Fuel Cell for BMW E90 features:
  • choice of 30ltr [8 gal] or 38ltr [10 gal] fuel cell (compatible with ethanol products)
  • choice of Aeromotive A1000 or Eliminator in-tank fuel pump with 100 micron pre-filter
  • FIA required aluminum container (color of your choice) with fixing straps.

I'm not sure what pricing looks like for the Merin setup, but curious if there are better options than these.

Here are some pics of the units:





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      02-08-2024, 02:01 PM   #23557
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Originally Posted by reidetailing View Post
Hoping to get some great input with my below questions:

- What's the main purpose(s) to getting an aftermarket fuel cell, as opposed to retaining our OEM fuel cell?
Safety, fill rate, and managing fuel pressure under load.

I like the OEM looking option given it places the weight low and more centralized.
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      02-08-2024, 02:03 PM   #23558
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Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Safety, fill rate, and managing fuel pressure under load.

I like the OEM looking option given it places the weight low and more centralized.
reidetailing

Are you considering a cell for your project? That’s probably the only bonkers upgrade for a street car (outside of the carbon doors without protection). Having fuel lines in the cockpit should necessitate fire suppression and appropriate clothing.
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      02-08-2024, 03:41 PM   #23559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney View Post
Yeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
I do the DSC/ABS thing then go rip up and down the backstreet to engage ABS a few times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by reidetailing View Post
Hoping to get some great input with my below questions:


- What is the best fuel cell you can buy for this platform? I've narrowed my search down to the following:

Personally i like the OEM style 23gal/90L ones i forgot who made one.. but i remember seeing it. although i simply want the larger fuel tank... to make driving to and from the track easier and less fill ups lol.

example, i will literally be around 80 miles remaining from irvine to buttonwillow... with a 17gal fuel tank. (E85)
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      02-09-2024, 01:41 PM   #23560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Safety, fill rate, and managing fuel pressure under load.

I like the OEM looking option given it places the weight low and more centralized.
Thanks Devin!


Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
reidetailing

Are you considering a cell for your project? That’s probably the only bonkers upgrade for a street car (outside of the carbon doors without protection). Having fuel lines in the cockpit should necessitate fire suppression and appropriate clothing.
I am considering it, especially if it saves weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
Personally i like the OEM style 23gal/90L ones i forgot who made one.. but i remember seeing it. although i simply want the larger fuel tank... to make driving to and from the track easier and less fill ups lol.

example, i will literally be around 80 miles remaining from irvine to buttonwillow... with a 17gal fuel tank. (E85)
Got it, I'll try to do some digging...thanks Alex!
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      02-10-2024, 02:09 AM   #23561
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reidetailing

Also capacity. Those 3 different model numbers correspond to different liters. That merin one is the slickest answer, but doesn’t save much weight, especially when it’s bigger than OEM. But it is in the lowest spot possible.

With shipping, customs, etc it’s over $8k for that option. Plus fuel pumps. We considered it for a while, but ended up doing a custom fuel cell in the trunk area that met what we wanted to do capacity wise and was way less expensive.
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      02-10-2024, 10:16 AM   #23562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kolosy View Post
i *just* did this (replaced my master + booster) and only needed about a liter of fluid. did a powerbleed, then a DSC bleed, then one more power bleed for good measure. had lots of sputtering and pedal felt good. 4.5L seems like A LOT.
How did you do the DSC bleed?

The ISTA instructions state the procedure requires two people and a pressure bleeder. The second person pumps the brake pedal after the DSC activates for a specific corner and during this time, a lot of fluid should be flowing out. My pressure was set to 15 PSI. I purchased a brand new Motiv bleeder, filled it, and still need to refill it with fluid after doing just the rear corners during the DSC bleed procedure.

Also took me several DSC bleed plan runs in ISTA until air bubbles stopped coming out. Remember the air has to travel from the DSC unit, through the hard lines, and out of the caliper so waiting about 10 seconds the DSC activation and brake pedal pumps should guarantee it comes out. If you're seeing air bubbles right away after opening the bleeder screw, that's not from the DSC unit.
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