Track forum general chit chat.

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Love the organization and cleanliness

thanks bro

[bigjae1976]

…. better than having school loan debt i guess lol

Total Snap On WH0RE!!!

[admranger]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I’d have to know more about the specific bearing. In my case, I used a PTFE line rod end which is holding up much better than the Teflon lined BW ends.

Teflon is just DuPont’s trade name for PTFE but yeah, there are different quality rod ends out there.

McMaster or Fastenal higher end stuff is definitely the way to go. Too much counterfeit crap out there.

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

…. better than having school loan debt i guess lol

That’s a Harvard education worth right there!

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Total Snap On WH0RE!!!

You say that, but I hear envy (or is it lust?).

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by admranger

You say that, but I hear envy (or is it lust?).

let’s be real, snap on is the devil lmao

[Bimmer Barney]

Was doing spark plugs today and just giving a look over the camber plates and I noticed that the driver side appears to be at full negative but the passenger side does not. I didn’t adjust anything, so I don’t know for sure, just basing this on the relative position of the strut top nut/visual. But this is new to me so I just wanted to post a picture and see if anything looks obviously out of check. Look okay?

[Bimmer Barney]

I should add that I did get an alignment and the numbers checked out, but the visual is just throwing me for a loop.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

I should add that I did get an alignment and the numbers checked out, but the visual is just throwing me for a loop.

Even brand new cars aren’t truly square so I would not worry. If the alignment from trusted shop are per your spec I’m sure it’s fine. For the visual you’ll likely need want confirmed level surface upon which you could measure camber with your phone.

[MaX PL]

I had that happen to me with ground control plates a few months back. Original positions of the pins was 2/3 inward with -3.5 camber.

After a track event involving a spin, I noticed both plates fully inward. Went for an alignment and both sides were -4.2 camber, and had them realigned back to -3.5.

Asked Bimmerworld what could have caused it and they said the spin was most likely. I also experienced significant wheel vibration due to the loss of wheel weights that event, and that may have perhaps contributed to the issue as well.

[hsaguirre]

I’m going through the same thing with my height adjustment. Passenger front is 5mm higher on the strut just to get to the same height on both sides.

[gmx]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

I should add that I did get an alignment and the numbers checked out, but the visual is just throwing me for a loop.

Your alignment shops laser calibration is whack, go somewhere else. Another reason for string, toe & settling method. Takes longer but as accurate as it'll get.
If it was really a spin, your torque seal on the top mount studs should have broken loose imo. Yet there is no sign of that.

[Bartledoo]

Pop the strut bar mounts off and verify the studs are in the same position (in their respective slots). Alignment shops many times won’t check if they are even before adjusting your camber plates.

[Bimmer Barney]

Originally Posted by gmx

Your alignment shops laser calibration is whack, go somewhere else. Another reason for string, toe & settling method. Takes longer but as accurate as it'll get.
If it was really a spin, your torque seal on the top mount studs should have broken loose imo. Yet there is no sign of that.

The torque seal was broken; I did check that. What you see in the photo is after I cleaned them off and re-sealed. I’ll check with a string but the shop that did it said he noticed it too and assured me it is even.

[hsaguirre]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Pop the strut bar mounts off and verify the pins are in the same position. Alignment shops many times won’t check if the pins are even before adjusting your camber plates.

What are the pins your referencing? Curious if that has anything to do with my slight height difference.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by hsaguirre

What are the pins your referencing? Curious if that has anything to do with my slight height difference.

Shit, not the pins, the three studs of the top mount. Check whether each top mount has its studs pushed inboard fully or not.

I’ll edit my post above.

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by hsaguirre

What are the pins your referencing? Curious if that has anything to do with my slight height difference.

The threaded studs on the damper top hat/camber plate.

[bigjae1976]

Save this to your photos. It will come in handy…And you’re welcome 🤣🤣🤣

[okusa]

As part of my build I plan on removing the stock dash and going with an AIM MXG. However, I have been told by dogbone that by doing so I will lose the the oil pressure sensor. Has anyone yet figured out how to wire that into an AIM?

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by okusa

As part of my build I plan on removing the stock dash and going with an AIM MXG. However, I have been told by dogbone that by doing so I will lose the the oil pressure sensor. Has anyone yet figured out how to wire that into an AIM?

I have an oil pressure sensor in line with the OEM tied into the Aim MXS. No issues and simple.

Also, didn’t replace my dash as I like the CEL and that’s not part of the wiring harness I’d try and manipulate. MXS is mounted in front off the steering colum.

[m3number86]

That steering wheel though

[spxxx]

Anyone run into issues splicing into CAN wires to get data to your Aim DL devices? I'm using the blue connector under the passenger dash with wiring as follows (red/blue: CAN+ & red: CAN-).

I've tried BMWPT6 & BMW_MINI profiles from Aim with no luck

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Anyone run into issues splicing into CAN wires to get data to your Aim DL devices? I'm using the blue connector under the passenger dash with wiring as follows (red/blue: CAN+ & red: CAN-).

I've tried BMWPT6 & BMW_MINI profiles from Aim with no luck

Are you sure you spliced all the way into the wire?

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by b4hand

Are you sure you spliced all the way into the wire?

Yeah I checked several times, trimmed away some of the coating on the wire and tried different gauge splices. I'm at a loss, I have no idea what the issue could be. Also, I'm 99% sure it's getting a CAN signal (or it could be the direct 12v wiring) as the Solo is turning on when the car wakes up. It's not showing any ECU data on my Solo screens or logging any data while on track though.