Yellow BRAKE, ABS, DSC lights are on!

[spammysammich]

Wheel speed sensors can go for a variety of reasons. You might want to check your bearings for signs of rust forming. A little distortion to the reluctor ring on the bearing from rust or physical damage can throw off readings.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Reddevils7

Lmao I just wanted to post to see. Any of you guys have any ideas? Gonna see if the dealer has a sensor in stock tomorrow and swap it out. I suppose I could swap right to left and see if the same codes apply on that side. Does the abs pump module go out early? That's the expensive fix from what it looks like. I'm at 30k miles

Except for one default, they are all right front related. I’d start there and replace the right front wheel bearing/speed sensor. I’d also inspect the left side but not replace it yet unless the wheel bearing is old then I’d replace both. Report back if this didn’t clear up the right side error codes.

Searching is a double edge sword. You get attacked for not trying and/or you get called out for bringing a thread back from the dead

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Except for one default, they are all right front related. I’d start there and replace the right front wheel bearing/speed sensor. I’d also inspect the left side but not replace it yet unless the wheel bearing is old then I’d replace both. Report back if this didn’t clear up the right side error codes.

Searching is a double edge sword. You get attacked for not trying and/or you get called out for bringing a thread back from the dead

Yeah I'll start with that right front abs/wheel speed sensor first that I linked earlier. I read just cleaning the old one might temporarily help as well. If the dealer has none in stock tomorrow I'll just order online and try cleaning the current one

Btw should I read codes on ista? Are there codes bimmer link can't pickup that ista would?

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Wheel speed sensors can go for a variety of reasons. You might want to check your bearings for signs of rust forming. A little distortion to the reluctor ring on the bearing from rust or physical damage can throw off readings.

Not too bad looking in terms of rust. What do you think?

[Reddevils7]

A new wheel speed sensor fixed the issue. Case closed here. This is the old sensor. It was fairly dirty (picture is after I wiped it once already)

[Mdriv3r]

Originally Posted by Reddevils7

A new wheel speed sensor fixed the issue. Case closed here. This is the old sensor. It was fairly dirty (picture is after I wiped it once already)

Yeah that was the same sensor for me. Started in the rain. Mine was on the rear. Nice job solving this. Posted a realoem pic below of rear abs wheel speed sensor.

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by Mdriv3r

Yeah that was the same sensor for me. Started in the rain. Mine was on the rear. Nice job solving this. Posted a realoem pic below of rear abs wheel speed sensor.

Rear sensor is a bit more annoying as you have to pull the fender lining a bit

I just realized you're the guy I initially quoted lol thanks for getting back

[Compactive]

I guess it's my turn on my M sport 335i. I checked the fluid res and it didn't seem low. I did travel on some gravel earlier in the trip, but that doesn't seem to be a major deal. I believe this is the second ABS module for this car at 15x,xxx mile, so unsure if that's the cause. I'll start small and go from there, with updates.

[MineralWhiteF80]

Originally Posted by Compactive

I guess it's my turn on my M sport 335i. I checked the fluid res and it didn't seem low. I did travel on some gravel earlier in the trip, but that doesn't seem to be a major deal. I believe this is the second ABS module for this car at 15x,xxx mile, so unsure if that's the cause. I'll start small and go from there, with updates.

The only thing you should be doing next is retrieving fault codes from the car using ISTA or INPA to see exactly what codes are stored. That will narrow your scope of troubleshooting. If you download ISTA onto a laptop and use a K+DCAN cable, you can read the fault code(s) and then create a test plan that will walk you through exactly what you need to do to troubleshoot and repair the issue.

[Compactive]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

The only thing you should be doing next is retrieving fault codes from the car using ISTA or INPA to see exactly what codes are stored. That will narrow your scope of troubleshooting. If you download ISTA onto a laptop and use a K+DCAN cable, you can read the fault code(s) and then create a test plan that will walk you through exactly what you need to do to troubleshoot and repair the issue.

The Windows machine I had ISTA on is ancient. When it was new (10 years ago), it used to take 10 minutes to boot up, and 30 minutes to do any meaningful function.

I'll try ISTA on my MacBook via https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2030476